How to insulate an existing garage door and reduce leaks and thermal bridges from a garage and a garage door?
- This page is the report of an optimization of the thermal bridges and leaks of a garage and especially of thermal leaks on a garage door.
- The method is valid as much for older doors (our case with a door of about twenty years) than recent, because, although better "insulated", leaks and thermal bridges are still legion.
- The method was applied to an overhead door but a sectional garage door automated view may well be also optimized using this method.
- This concerns the internal garages in the houses: whether they are in the basement or on the ground floor (our case). Indeed; there is little point in thermally optimizing a garage that is neither internal nor attached to a home.
- This article is condensed in photos of the thermal optimization of our garage, for detailed explanations, refer to the subject of forums: thermal leakage of the garage door
- Learn more and ask your question? visit forum insulation and heating
The problem: many leaks via "days" and thermal bridges by the metal structure
A badly insulated garage (in 90% of the cases even in new constructions) or worse with leaks (a majority of doors, even new) therefore constitutes, by itself, an important thermal bridge for the entire home. This is all the more valid as the internal garages in the house which are rarely thermally insulated from the latter.
The methods and solutions to fill the days and limit thermal bridges
bottom flanges of placing door on the top and bottom of the garage door, window seals on the amounts and extruded polystyrene (or expanded) on the lintel and the amounts.
Details of the various parties
The low door, door open
The method is the same for the top and bottom: the tubes are screwed.
Method for hanging the tubes at the bottom: 2 3 mm aluminum strips screwed into the bottom of the door. It is not very beautiful when you open but you have to leave some “working” play otherwise it blocks.
For the top, we can spend strips. Attention, they are required to tear down if the strands.
On the following 2 photos, I reassembled the outer tube to better see the strip:
- I put a small covering of a few cm of the tubes: the tube N-1 will enter the envelope of the tube N from 2 to 3 cm.
- This is only possible if the sausage and envelope are independent: these are generally the cheapest sausages!
- the missing screw is normal: when I drilled I noticed that water was flowing from the door which therefore did not drain all the water, so it is a drain.
The bottom of the outer side door, door closed
It fits perfectly: the tubes are in slight compression when the door is closed, ensuring very good insulation against drafts!
The door bottom door closed and interior side
Even if the first row of sausage on the outside was not properly adjusted, the second row is in any case a complementary barrier to leaks! Buy the tubes that best suit your configuration: take the maximum 1 mm more than the daylight space at the door.
The outer side and inside amounts
Our rocking door is asymmetrical: the lower part of the supporting frame is on the inside and the upper part it is on the outside. The method of isolating leaks is the same in both cases: a small "D" joint.
I took the biggest that existed (6 to 8 mm), because who can the most can the least and these joints are very strongly compressible!
Top of the door inner side
Aluminum strips are not necessary for the top but nothing prevents putting them on.
And when the door is closed:
final results and conclusions
Here is an overview of the optimized door rather quiet right?
Cost: less than € 30.
The modification of the door, excluding insulation of the lintel will have cost: 5 door flanges at 3 €, 2 flat aluminum strips of 1 m at 4 € (I believe) and a few screws and a good hour of work (including preparation of the hardware) on the door only.
Some extruded and expanded polystyrene drops were used for the frame.
mechanical results: the door opens and closes very easily although it is obviously necessary to compress the tubes on the last cm.
It is therefore necessary to press slightly more when opening and closing.
For those who are interested in this DIY: before screwing the tubes, make many opening and closing tests.
thermal results: we won 3 4 ° C in the average garage and much more when there is cold wind.
Learn more and ask questions: garage door thermal leaks