Heat recovery on a stove with wood (optimization)

[jonule]

well, apparently it's not a forum specialized in alternative heating? ...

[loop]

Bonjour,

For 3-way recycling valves, or temperature reading or thermo ... etc, it must be able to pass a certain flow and above all, the opening occurs from a certain temperature, a bit like a calorstat on a water-cooled heat engine.
On the other hand, beyond the opening temperature, the higher the temperature, the more the valve opens, releasing the power in the water circulating in the transmitter.


For the material, do a search with

ESBE VT

A+

[jonule]

apparently yes I confuse the valve which closes from a certain t ° C and the one which opens from a certain t ° C ...
I'll get it, thanks to you Looping; =)

if not do you think it is cheaper and just as effective to place a solenoid valve on an aquastat?

PS: like on my site I had a DIY to control a manual 3-way valve with a wiper motor:
http://mon.danstagueule.fr.free.fr/NRJr ... laire5.jpg
http://mon.danstagueule.fr.free.fr/NRJr ... laire4.jpg
but I don't know if I'm going to put this in the living room

[jonule]

if not do you think it is cheaper and just as effective to place a solenoid valve on an aquastat?

yes, but in the event of a power cut, the loop rises to t ° C and all the hot liquid leaves through the 3 bar safety valve.
As I do not have an auto-filling group (to detect leaks it has its advantage ...) the circuit would be emptied and would turn at a loss.
it therefore appears that the thermostatic element is to be preferred.
not counting the (low) consumption of the solenoid valve.

not easy to learn the heating elements ...

[chatelot16]

I can't get precise information on the current 3-way or 4-way valves

I only know very old that I do not even want to reuse using the bad principle: bellows dilation of wax commadé by an electrical resistance: so big power consumption

I like a solution that I saw on leroy sommer electro fuel oil boilers scrapped: prototype never sold

there was no 3-way valve but 2 circulator with 2 independent electric thermostat ... a circulator rotating in the boiler ... a circulator rotating in the radiator, and mixed in a single tee

for my future heating installation this 2 pump system will be my preferred solution

and for tests I take advantage of the circulator stock that I dismantled today ... I only recovered 2 whole boilers, but also all the circulator that I had time to dismantle

[jonule]

ditto I had recovered boilers in the scrapyard, with the ciruclateurs, exchangers, balloon, probes etc ... at 10 € the boiler !!!

like the heat engine calorstat I found that,
at 50 ° C:
http://www.lepocketbike.com/Calorstat-q ... -8609.html
60 ° C:
http://www.lepocketbike.com/Calorstat-q ... -9659.html
and the calorstat body of course:
http://www.lepocketbike.com/Corps-compl ... -9706.html

in recovery it must be cheaper for sure ... but already new it makes the thermostatic valve at 40 €, 50 € delivered!

good it mounts with serflex, I do not know if it holds the 3 bars of safety valve but it leaves to think ...

[chatelot16]

the problem with the bellows calorstat full of wax is that we don't know what they are doing ... difficult to control once installed

I prefer everything to be electrically controlled: it is more complex but easier to understand and troubleshoot when you have done everything yourself

I'm not talking about the electronic bazaar of the big manufacturers which are completely obscure

from the point of view of electrical consumption, I prefer 2 pumps that light up intermittently to make just the right average flow, one in the boiler and the other in the radiators, rather than a pump always turning fully to stuff in a mixing valve always half closed

[jonule]

yes to control the calorstat it's like on the car, you have to feel the temperature of the hose; to disassemble it is the same, there are 3 bolts to disassemble. the coolant on an internal combustion engine usually rises to 1 bar, stabilized by the filler cap (calibrated spring in the cover).
I think it works without problem, besides the aesthetics ...

for the solenoid valve controlled by calorstat, I looked at how to put a brico type thermostat 10 € in a thimble, I know how to solder with tin I think there is no problem doing that, except that the solenoid valve 2 routes is as expensive as the famous "60 ° C thermovar".
So that's no use I think, apart from re-using a 2-way solenoid valve that can hold a fluid at 90 ° C but I don't have any on hand and I didn't look for a "good plan" "?

I also relativized the case of security in the event of an EDF cut, it never happens and there is a safety valve at worst, just connect it to a wastewater + siphon;

from the point of view of electrical consumption, I prefer 2 pumps that light up intermittently to make just the right average flow, one in the boiler and the other in the radiators, rather than a pump always turning fully to stuff in a mixing valve always half closed

how do you regulate the pumps? you are not using a mixing valve in this case? how do you connect the 2 circuits?

it makes me think, I have a circulator on my radiator circuit after my 4-way mixing valve (thermostatically controlled), but I don't even know if there's one in the boiler ... will have to open my ears

[chatelot16]

the radiator circuit pump is controlled by a flashing light, depending on the outside temperature (or the desired power) full-time operation in extreme cold, and more or less part-time when a lower power is sufficient

boiler circuit pump controlled by a thermostat on the radiator circuit: when the radiators are hot enough the boiler pump stops: the water in the radiator circuit passes through a pipe which short circuits the hot pipes and the cold pipe, and that turns in circles in the radiator ... when the temperature is below the set point, the boiler pump turns on, and adds hot water to the circuit

the end of the pipes connecting the hot and the cold can be fitted with a non-return valve allowing the passage of cold water towards the hot, to allow the warm water to turn in circles in the radiator circuit ... but no passage in the warm to cold direction, to allow operation at maximum efficiency when it is cold and the boiler pump is running all the time

in the electrofioul boilers that I recovered there was not even this check valve: simple piece of pipe between hot and cold: therefore for very cold it does not add up the power of the 2 pumps

without non-return valve, you can also put a valve that is always open ... only to close in the event of a large heat when you want to force maximum efficiency ... or to help out if one of the 2 pumps breaks down

[jonule]

small return,
finally I found a thermo-valve at 70 €:
http://www.ofenseite.com/Thermostatpatr ... peratur-_1
having an old circulator, I prefer to buy the set "circulator + thermovar + isolation valves" from laddomat at 200 € (kit 11-30 for boiler up to 30kW):
http://pourquoipayerpluscher.com/kit-de ... -or25.html
http://www.mazauguesmateriaux.com/Unite ... 30-63C-R25

indeed in case of breakdown of the calorstat (visible by thermometers) cleui-disassembles and changes for 20 €!

the motor gives 35, 46 and 50W for the laddomat LM40 pump, otherwise they also sell the kit with motor consuming from 3 to 23 watts it's 85 € more:
http://www.ofenseite.com/EHV-Ruecklaufa ... Laddomat_1

Let's go !