Heat recovery on a stove with wood (optimization)

[the middle]

I have a poel the Swedish signature drink, I think, the combustion principle of this poel is heated intensely the logs.
To do this, the 4 5 listed poel are surrounded by insulating plates (vermiculite); the 5éme is the window, which returns the heat devant.Cela allows well burn and high T ° ...
This is how I burn the tree, without fear of clogging my fireplace.
But I noticed that the T ° gas outlet, at the exit of poel quickly turns around 180 ° c; what a pity ...
So, knowing how to operate another manufacturer northern named Tuliki.kiki ... finally someting like that, and that is not within the reach of my purse, I built a calorie tank, refractory bricks, just outside the poel.Et ... after this recovery, I installed a serpentine copper diameter 18mm and 12 meter long), which preheats my sanitary water, 45 ° C, every day, taking a bath daily (ie, + -. 60l water to 45 ° )
The system works well for two years.
T ° of refractory bricks, at + -60 °, which gives a non-negligible thermal inertia (the fire goes out, and the bricks still to be heated .... (bricks still warm after 6 hours)
There, there, it's easy to get calories.
No draft problems, but my fireplace is stainless steel, and all is Ramone once a year.
Well ... we try to send vat photos
The photo is here it is:



The aluminum "gadget", which is located above, is simply a box that keeps food warm. (It's not pretty, but it's very functional)
Alain

[Edit Modo Targol] Direct insertion of the photo [/ Edit Modo Targol]

[Philippe Schutt]

good game ! for a closed stove with a stainless steel chimney, flue to 60-80 °, it is more than enough to secure the draw.
Congratulations!

[Xhylit]

Hello
I assume that your fireplace is isolated to the outside evacuation.
If the fumes are less than "32 ° c" (blah) => condensation.
Generally, manufacturers do not go down the flue gas temperature in desous of 150 ° c for two reasons:
1. not condense in the chimney.
2. To offer a powerful boiler and bonmarchée but performance blah
A+

[Cuicui]

I built a calorie tank, refractory bricks, just outside the stove. ... And after this recovery, I installed a copper coil diameter 18mm and 12 meter long), which preheats my sanitary water, 45 ° c, every day, taking a daily bath. ( therefore, + - 60l water to 45 °)
The system works well for two years.
T ° of refractory bricks, at + -60 °, which gives a non-negligible thermal inertia (the fire goes out, and the bricks still to be heated .... (bricks still warm after 6 hours)
There, there, it's easy to get calories.

Awesome ! For years I dream to do the same. It will perhaps give me the courage to me.

[Bmag]

I have built it, but the performance is poor when the stove is idling.

Previously, on a previous system, I did circulate water around the pipe, the yield was better, but it was cleaned often of course.
I also intend to heat refractory bricks and recover the calories with a copper coil. For now, I do not see how to do it ...

[Xhylit]

Beautiful realization Bmag.
The combustion chamber must go beyond the 600 ° C minimum for not smoking and 900 ° C minimum to start burning tar. Now here is no way to achieve these t ° critical because of the interchange so poor combustion and tar galore background. This is the principle of lejustemilieu is valid because it recovers energy fumes when burnt.
A proposal, put a slight insulating plate that resists 1260 ° C before the heat exchanger. Performance will be better because the combustion temtérature will be higher exchanger will remain clean thanks to the non-contact with the fumes.
PS you have to see if it should not be an insulation behind other PARROIS to maintain heat.
A+

[ThierrySan]

It is not enough to double the side walls with réfractère stone and that of the background, a simple coat ?!

[the middle]

[
Awesome ! For years I dream to do the same. It will perhaps give me the courage to me.

Photo of the building system (copy and paste) but it does not work
This was to show that one should put one brick thick, otherwise the brick wall does not rise in T °
The picture also shows the separation wall inside, forcing the gas back down to the bottom, and ascend to the chimney in stainless steel.
A cold start is difficult, so you have to install a bypass, which allows gas to pass directly into the chimney.
Personally I have not installed a bypass, but my recovery remains hot because I always light the fire every day, and bricks do not have time to cool down.
The small hole in the bottom, used to clean after the cleaning (I drive a brick to plug the hole)
The top of the system must be disassembled for cleaning.
If someone just correct the address of the photo, that would be nice.
Alain

[Edit Modo Targol] Fixed the picture link. (For more ease, no space in image names [/ Edit Modo Targol]

[Xhylit]

Hello
As part of the implementation of Bmag, the proposal is ThierrySan interressante but I do not regard the refractory brick is a good insulator (+/- 70 ° C / cm) against the thermal inertia of the mass causes a very long transitional arrangements before reaching the critical temperatures.
Refractory fiber panel has a low 12mm so little thermal inertia mass. So the critical temperature are quickly reached thus limited pollution and energy efficient, less fouling to preserve proper operation of système.L'islolation is of the order of 300 ° C. / cm
In conclusion let me say that the implementation of these panels is easier than traditional bricks.

Commenting on lejustemilieu, it would highlight the interest of such a recovery compared to evacuation flue gas temperatures in extérireure. What I would like to know by cons is when starting the home, is what you have seen a difference in operation when you démarres with a powerful dry kindling fire with well filled home. A little to the principle of mass stoves (as Tili kiwi)?
A+

[the middle]

Commenting on lejustemilieu, it would highlight the interest of such a recovery compared to evacuation flue gas temperatures in extérireure. What I would like to know by cons is when starting the home, is what you have seen a difference in operation when you démarres with a powerful dry kindling fire with well filled home. A little to the principle of mass stoves (as Tili kiwi)?
A+

Response to the interest:
Now I have a surface + -0.9Mcarré firebrick which is -55 + ° c, and this surface is still heating 8 hours my room, once the fire is out, it's net profit, as all this heat is lost up the chimney.
The second point is very interesting and worth considering.
I don't like to burn my stove slowly, because it takes a high temperature to have a "cleaner" combustion.
Result, it's too hot in my house (which does not bother my wife).
For me, the dream is to have a highly Tulikiwi.Tu burns for two hours, and then it is the mass which makes the heat.
The big problem with me is the poor insulation of the walls of my house ... The house refoidit too fast ...
Best heating is insulation.