Here is a fairly complete presentation of the solar house + wood + small electric supplement from Tigger with 1000L thermal buffer homemade.
It starts here: Why choose the solar auto construction?
Diagram in big: https://www.econologie.com/photo/solaire ... e_18_1.gif
I divided it into several articles:
1) Renovation and transformation of a house with 100% electric heating in house with solar heating and wood in Lorraine
https://www.econologie.com/pourquoi-choi ... -3773.html
2) The purchase of the house in 2004 ... all electric!
https://www.econologie.com/photo-d-une-m ... -3774.html
3) Interior refurbishment
https://www.econologie.com/maison-electr ... -3779.html
4) Installation of solar collectors in summer 2006 and installation of solar circuit
https://www.econologie.com/photos-de-la- ... -3780.html
5) Photos, map and explanation of the solar circuit
https://www.econologie.com/photos-et-pla ... -3783.html
6) Stove with hot water coil (complement for PC)
https://www.econologie.com/poele-a-bois- ... -3788.html
7) Details and more photos
https://www.econologie.com/photos-et-det ... -3787.html
Some pictures :
The solar installation wood Tigger with thermal buffer
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The solar installation wood Tigger with thermal buffer
Last edited by Christophe the 15 / 12 / 10, 16: 04, 4 edited once.
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Hello
Thanks to Tigger for this great installation, and this very complete article
When I said some time ago that self-builders-installers would succeed in demonstrating the true economic interest of combined solar, what professionals and their dissuasive tariff will never manage to do.
I found in the installation of Tigger some tips that I wish to apply on my future installation:
1) The solar preheating balloon upstream of the electric cumulus
Thus, a true hot water capacity is maintained at 60 ° (the total volume of cumulus 200 or 300 l)
This is not the case on a solar tank alone with an electric booster, since the resistance is at the intermediate level and only the water "above" is brought to 60 °
If you want 300L from ECS to 60 °, you have to choose a solar balloon from 500L and the price is not the same anymore!
On the other hand, the DHW and heating circuits are separated
I think, in my case, to make only one circuit (high temperature) to heat the tank preparer with the boiler wood in case of absence of sun (my heating is realized by radiators and not PC, thus T ° higher )
2) The thermostatic valve to keep a constant temperature in the circuit, even if the buffer is at high temperature (extra heat of wood heating)
Could we have a photo (I do not know what it looks like)
3) Dishwasher and washing machine connected to ECS
Why not directly at the outlet of the balloon 60 ° with, again a thermostatic mixer to lower the temperature to 50 or 40 ° C (see more for the dishes?)
A+
Thanks to Tigger for this great installation, and this very complete article
When I said some time ago that self-builders-installers would succeed in demonstrating the true economic interest of combined solar, what professionals and their dissuasive tariff will never manage to do.
I found in the installation of Tigger some tips that I wish to apply on my future installation:
1) The solar preheating balloon upstream of the electric cumulus
Thus, a true hot water capacity is maintained at 60 ° (the total volume of cumulus 200 or 300 l)
This is not the case on a solar tank alone with an electric booster, since the resistance is at the intermediate level and only the water "above" is brought to 60 °
If you want 300L from ECS to 60 °, you have to choose a solar balloon from 500L and the price is not the same anymore!
On the other hand, the DHW and heating circuits are separated
I think, in my case, to make only one circuit (high temperature) to heat the tank preparer with the boiler wood in case of absence of sun (my heating is realized by radiators and not PC, thus T ° higher )
2) The thermostatic valve to keep a constant temperature in the circuit, even if the buffer is at high temperature (extra heat of wood heating)
Could we have a photo (I do not know what it looks like)
3) Dishwasher and washing machine connected to ECS
Why not directly at the outlet of the balloon 60 ° with, again a thermostatic mixer to lower the temperature to 50 or 40 ° C (see more for the dishes?)
A+
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- tigrou_838
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my installation
hello looping.
Before starting the work, I searched a lot and memorized the possibillities I had, especially thanks to APPER, and ECONOLOGIE.
so
for your 1 point. I am obliged to separate the two circuits completely, the heating being in very low temperature, it will not be enough to heat the sanitary water sufisament.
for the moment, the solar cumulus is in series with the cumulus the electric one, soon a small circulator not represented on the plan, to turn the water in both cumulus when the solar water is above the electric water, more or less above 55degrees, total capacity 400litres of hot water.
point 2 and 3.
thermostatic valve to send only 24degrees in the heated floor.
dishwasher to supply solar hot water at 60degrees.
washing machine supplied with solar hot water at 35degrés via another thermostatic valve.
thank you christophe
tigrou
Before starting the work, I searched a lot and memorized the possibillities I had, especially thanks to APPER, and ECONOLOGIE.
so
for your 1 point. I am obliged to separate the two circuits completely, the heating being in very low temperature, it will not be enough to heat the sanitary water sufisament.
for the moment, the solar cumulus is in series with the cumulus the electric one, soon a small circulator not represented on the plan, to turn the water in both cumulus when the solar water is above the electric water, more or less above 55degrees, total capacity 400litres of hot water.
point 2 and 3.
thermostatic valve to send only 24degrees in the heated floor.
dishwasher to supply solar hot water at 60degrees.
washing machine supplied with solar hot water at 35degrés via another thermostatic valve.
thank you christophe
tigrou
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loop wrote:When I said some time ago that self-builders-installers would succeed in demonstrating the true economic interest of combined solar, what professionals and their dissuasive tariff will never manage to do.
They do not want to do it because they know where the subsidies come from ... you will not have to bother the one who serves you the balls ...
As I told Tigger verbally this weend: if everyone had houses like ours, the oil sellers would go bankrupt ...
So their interest is to continue to make this kind of house inaccessible ... overbilling via a material subsidy is the means that the State has found which passes "the best" ... moreover it concerns all the materials to EnR. Wood boiler included.
Tigger has spoken a little about it in (well, I have a little reformulated to my sauce but the idea is there) its introduction: https://www.econologie.com/pourquoi-choi ... -3773.html
The trap of subsidies ...
My domestic hot water installation in autoconstruction and in series on the electric balloon cost me only 1200 Euros excluding subsidy. Indeed; the work carried out oneself is not subsidized (and for good reason: one would gain money to do them).
But in the end, even with grants from the state and the Lorraine region, it would still have cost me more to call a professional.
I think subsidies tend to artificially raise the price of solar installations, which is not a good thing. In other words: the premium does not go in the sustainable development but in the pocket of the installer.
For the rest I congratulate Tigger again for its pugnacity ... and I announce you that the presentation of our installation is being cogitation.
It just lacks some financial aspects ... I asked Tigger to think about it by email.
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- tigrou_838
- I posted 500 messages!
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- Registration: 20/10/04, 11:25
- Location: Lorraine border luxembourg
my installation
hello to all.
even a little reformulationner in christophe sauce, I completely agree with him.
I try to be dispordible and to respond as quickly as possible to the different questions, both here and on apper.
the solar must democratize.
ps: I will search the bills of my installation. separating the plumbing and electricity part I did at the same time.
tigrou
even a little reformulationner in christophe sauce, I completely agree with him.
I try to be dispordible and to respond as quickly as possible to the different questions, both here and on apper.
the solar must democratize.
ps: I will search the bills of my installation. separating the plumbing and electricity part I did at the same time.
tigrou
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- tigrou_838
- I posted 500 messages!
- posts: 573
- Registration: 20/10/04, 11:25
- Location: Lorraine border luxembourg
my installation
yes jc-tergal,
it is a tank of 1000litres in plastic with metal reinforcement, more insulation all around.
look at the pictures, we see the insulation of the tank.
it is a tank of 1000litres in plastic with metal reinforcement, more insulation all around.
look at the pictures, we see the insulation of the tank.
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Hi Tigger
Thanks for all the details
For my tank ECS upstream of my current 300L cumulus, I think I bought the equipment below
To optimize the temperature exchange, I want to use the 2 coils available on this balloon (since it has one)
Hot water inlet of the heating circuit at the top inlet of the high coil and outlet at the bottom outlet of the bottom coil
Between the two, simply connect the top sepentin outlet on the high end of the bottom coil
(I do not know if I was very clear, but I can sketch)
What do you think about this material and my idea?
A+
Thanks for all the details
For my tank ECS upstream of my current 300L cumulus, I think I bought the equipment below
Internal coating of the tank in two glazed vitrification layers
Polyurethane insulation without CFC
Long life expectancy
High efficiency
Magnesium anode
Electric resistance of 2 kW on request
Maximum operating pressure 8 bar.
Maximum operating pressure of the coils: 18 bar at 120 ° C - 16 bar at 160 ° C - 15 bar at 180 ° C
Type
K-162
Capacity (l)
160
Width A (mm)
615
Length L (mm)
580
Height H (mm)
1070
High serpentine surface (m²)
0,58
Low coil surface (m²)
0,73
Net weight (kg)
98
D1 sanitary hot water outlet
¾ ''
D2 high coil inlet
1 ¼ ''
D3 Thermostat
½ ''
D4 traffic
¾ ''
D5 high coil output
1 ¼ ''
Low coil input d6
1 ¼ ''
D7 Thermostat
½ ''
Low coil output d8
1 ¼ ''
D9 sanitary cold water inlet
¾ ''
To optimize the temperature exchange, I want to use the 2 coils available on this balloon (since it has one)
Hot water inlet of the heating circuit at the top inlet of the high coil and outlet at the bottom outlet of the bottom coil
Between the two, simply connect the top sepentin outlet on the high end of the bottom coil
(I do not know if I was very clear, but I can sketch)
What do you think about this material and my idea?
A+
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Looping, no pub stp ... I corrected your post
Do not you want to make a big tampon like at home then?
Do not you want to make a big tampon like at home then?
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