cellar humidity: Waterproof SikaLite, Rectavit or Aquaplan?

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Christophe
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cellar humidity: Waterproof SikaLite, Rectavit or Aquaplan?




by Christophe » 13/05/09, 15:02

I am trying to deal with rain penetration at our ventilated crawl space.

This makes 2 years I had a doubt (I had even already doing a subject here: Water repellent treatment of a ventilated crawl space? ) But I am now on and make sure that it is of External infiltrations and not the internal condensation.

How I so certain?

a) I noticed that the treatment against external moisture is a chemical treatment by polymerization and not a synthetic coating: it is therefore highly likely that it has cracked or cracked in different places!

b) the humidity has risen sharply following the recent heavy rains as we come out of a "dry" period of a few weeks. We even have a little puddle in the didou "wine cellar"!! 14

So there is therefore, I think, no restriction to doing an interior water repellent treatment because the excess moisture will either "come out" either not the bottom or not the cracks of the exterior treatment, but the walls will remain wet on the other hand. So one day or another, it will be necessary to treat from the outside (on the occasion of "big jobs" for example ...).

I have (and I will, work in progress) only treated the concrete blocks which were soaked (those at the bottom therefore), we will see the behavior of those which seemed dry: if there is too much "pressure" in the wall , they will also imbibe.

Anyway products used let the steam to escape by blocking humidity! So the walls can breathe all the same!

All this to say that I have the opportunity to make a COMPARATIVE TEST for econological 3 types of moisture treatment products walls I will apply to different parts of the crawl space:

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From left to right: Super SikaLite, chemical coating for Rectavit basement (sorry the pot is dirty because I have already worked with and I thought not to do this "report") strongly solvent, Aquaplan "Filler for cellar" in powder!

Details of the products used:

a) Super SikaLite is an additive to conventional mortar tranformer hydraulic mortar (mortar waterproof so).

Image

I had already used it to optimize our thermal buffer which is a concrete tank and which had a few "holes" on the upper slab).

The box costs € 5 and must be mixed with 2% by volume in the strike to make hyrdofuge: it is the most economical solution without cost, there is not even picture!

b) coating for cellar basely under Rectavit home. white coating. It is a prèt to use product with high solvent. Clean tools with White Spirit. I use this product or there is the wettest!

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It is a chemical product, strongly solvent! It's a beautiful shit. I worked 1h30 with in the crawl space (without gas mask: don't say that one needs one !! Pfff) and I almost burst ("small" dizziness, persistent smell "in the nose" until next day ... well I did not stack but I think it was not far !!!)

Ca whore should be banned! (If I had known I will not come !!). Anyway as far as my contamination benefits other (or rather does not profit!): If you have a choice do not buy this crazy thing! It was felt throughout the house for more than 36h despite the ventilation!

The pot of € 5 55L costs and can handle 12m² (double layer required).

c) cellar plaster Aquaplan. It is a white powder already prepared mix 1 / 5 water around. I presume it is a hydraulic mortar already péparé simply and colorful to help pose!

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The pot of € 10 39 kg costs and can handle 5 6 to envion m² (double slept well).

It therefore is more expensive than the hydraulic mortar prepared with SikaLite (I have not tested).

To follow: pictures of 1er results!

Small note: Sika and Aquaplan (and many others like Rubson ...) also have the chemical equivalent to Rectavit, this issue therefore is not intended to seal a brand or another but to help choose the best product!

One thing is certain Sika is a brand used by professionals in the sector. The others are more "consumer" products.
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by Christophe » 13/05/09, 15:39

Rectavit 1ere layer:

I increased the contrast to see better moisture but it will take several weeks after 2ieme layer to see the effect. In any case the touch, the walls are in large part already there with the dry layer 1ere!

Image

Image

Comparative application criteria: (If you see others, please ask)

- Preparation: very fast (nothing to do except to mix and clean tools or white spirit) as an oil painting

18/20

- Application: by brush or roller. Fairly easy and good, compared to an "oil" painting. Be careful as long as it is not dry: you cannot iron over a place under penalty of "tearing" everything. We will go to the 2nd layer.

12/20

- Application conditions: excruciating! Very painful because of the solvent vapors (a dust mask does not change anything). I was "shot" during the application (for the 2nd layer I will put an exhaust fan).

It feels during 24 36h following the wind!

0/20

- Application Speed: average 1h30 for about 10 m². Wall photo: 15 minutes.

14/20

- Ecology and environment: strong chemical solvents, therefore probably bad to very bad. To get an idea, I think that an equivalent surface area gives off about 10 times more solvents than a good "old" oil paint! Horrible!

5/20

- Drying: 24h according to the instructions (as Aquaplan). I let it dry 48h between photos and installation. It exudes a max so badly solvent.

5/20

2 more pictures of 1ere layer:

Image
Image

Despite the lack of 2ieme layer, it already feels efficacy because the walls were heavily soaked in this location before and they are a bit dry pres (except some places). This wall is the wall WEST wind and rain dominant. This is the worst place.

Good sight the chemical shit that it is, it is in interest that it "works" !! It remains to be seen the efficacy in the long term on ... hygrometry (98% before!)
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by Christophe » 13/05/09, 18:46

Just a picture of 2 treatments of the day:

Image

a) left white: 1ere layer of Aquaplan
b) the right leveling fresh sika (1 single coat will be enough I think)

The consumption of the mortar is very important: it is necessary to make a layer of about 5 mm. I consumed 10 kg for a little more than 2 m². Well it's not "serious" because the sand and the cement are not very expensive!

By cons I hope he comes out dry because it was limiting the paddling pool there!

Details and following tomorrow ... or later!
Last edited by Christophe the 14 / 05 / 09, 17: 57, 1 edited once.
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loop
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by loop » 14/05/09, 12:41

hi Christophe

The capillary moisture problem in exterior walls in contact with the ground should be treated at source.
There is no 50 solutions is the most effective drainage
method:
Dig a trench 50 cm deep and wide enough
Fill with drainage stone (which has the property of not promote capillary)
It is a mason who told me about this method, especially when building an outdoor terrace in contact with the housing wall.
The moisture being trapped under the slab, it escapes into the wall
Regular rains feed the soil moisture.

A+
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Christophe
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by Christophe » 14/05/09, 13:32

Looping I explained pkoi in theother subjectIt was not possible (for the moment and may never be) dealing with the outside because our house is semi buried, it's not so 50 cm 4,5m but it would dig and thus pull the entire garden side street, with perhaps a risk of collapse of the house!

So in our case, it is anything to do such work for a few leaks!

I had already treated the cellar wall (this is the crawlspace therefore below the cellar) successfully without any capillaries lifts ...

There already has drainage (seen on the plans) otherwise it would be much worse than that! It's just, I think, the coating hydroguge outside that was damaged in places and / or siding that have not been processed and that, over the years, have been covered with earth!

Otherwise good news: the leveling asked yesterday AM was already almost dry (hard almost everywhere and even clear in places) this morning, I'm surprised such a decision because the previous work put at least 48h to dry and the humidity was lower than 98% ... it must be the career between! :)
Last edited by Christophe the 14 / 05 / 09, 15: 04, 1 edited once.
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by Christophe » 14/05/09, 15:00

Aquaplan for cellar and 1ere 2ieme layers!

Photo before, increased contrast:

Image
Image

Temperature and humidity BEFORE (98% is not really top ...)
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Preparation:

Image

It is a white powder all ready to mix with water.

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We must wait to 10 15 minutes after mixing and the start of laying.

Laying the 1ere layer:

Image

Method:

The mixture is applied by trowel or spatula ...

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And spread with a damp brush:

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Aquaplan sells a "special" brush for € 9 but that's bullshit: I used a wallpaper paste brush and it works great!

It takes about 2h working for 1 layer on a wall of this size (in 10 15 min for approximately 1m² to 1 layer, double layer for 2) included preparation.

End of 1ere layer (yesterday):

Image

2ieme layer (this morning):

We see "well" the difference 1st / 2nd layer:

Image

Aye it's over for Aquaplan!

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Basically the hydraulic mortar can be seen clearly laid late yesterday afternoon that is already dry in patches!

Comparative application criteria:

- Preparation: Medium fast. We must spoil as a mortar but to blend. 10 15 in minutes waiting before the application (just enough time to grab a coffee and do a little pose between 2 bins!). No dosage necessary: ​​we must put enough water to make a spoil easily applied with a trowel.

14/20

- Application: trowel and brush. Pretty easy, easier than a traditional mortar. It sticks well (which probably explains the extra cost / hydraulic mortar). A look at the installation of a plaster. Count per layer about 15 min per m² according to the condition of the wall (bad in my case). If one applies this may be a coat (paint).

15/20

- Conditions: very good, very mild odor. Dry hands with a little like a conventional mortar.

16/20

- Application Speed: average 2h for about 8 m². The 2ieme layer is delicate enough to ask for time as it is at times difficult to see where one is already past.

12/20

- Ecology and environment: The product does not require other prodection a cement / mortar classic. I think that the environmental impact is limited. Clean with water. low odor (but that leveling)

15/20

- Drying: 24h according to the manual. The 1ere layer was dry in less than 24h despite 98% hydrometric, soaked walls and brushing with water !! Some places were missing some product when 1er layer (slightly less white than others) were still wet, the rest already dry! This proves the effectiveness of the product.

15/20

I will now finish the "hydraulic mortar" wall.
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by Christophe » 14/05/09, 18:41

"Homemade" Hydraulic Mortar with SikaLite!

Preparation:

Mixing conventional mortar: 2 / 3 sand 1 / 3 cement (portland) about 10 kg.

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The sikalite manual says 2% by mass, given the "difficult" conditions I put 3% or 300 g:

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Mixture prior to application in the work trough:

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Application:

This is what allows only to the above trough:

Image

Method:

This is the same as for AquaPlan but the thickness is more imporante. It must be spread over with the trowel with the Aquaplan because the mortar spreads less easily with the brush (must have the Aquaplan benefits!)

The mixture is applied by trowel or spatula ...

Image

The installation is very fast (in 2 3 minutes a trough!) But the preparation is much longer than for other products 2. It saves time because there are only one layer to ask. It takes about 2h working for 2 to 2,5m² understood recess preparation! It is tempering that takes the most time.

Comparative application criteria:

- Preparation: slow. You have to prepare everything. Sand, cement and sikalite. About 15 min to weigh 10 kg without counting the "wetting". The preparation time is bcp more important than the application time. Only positive point: these are not "harmful" products, only a dust mask is necessary (very volatile cement and sikalite)

5/20

- Application: trowel and brush. Quite difficult. Allow about 30 45 in minutes per m². 2 advantage over other solution: one coat is enough (I hope!).

10/20

- Application conditions: good, no smell. Only hands dry a bit like with a conventional mortar.

16/20

- Application Speed: slow, 4h for about 4 m² preparation included. The mixing is what takes the most time.

8/20

- Ecology and environment: same cement / conventional mortar. I think that the environmental impact is limited. Clean with water. No odor.

18/20

- Drying: depends on the thickness asked. Hard to estimate. The advantage is that there is, I think, a single layer if it is thick enough. By cons it will probably repeat some alterations.

15/20

After the end of work and verification of effectiveness, I will do a comparative final table taking into account (at least) 2 other criteria:

- The price per m²
- Aesthetics (in my small case but if it is for a living ca account)
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by Christophe » 15/05/09, 11:32

This morning the mortar is almost dry but I'll have to redo a missed him 20 cm wall. I take this opportunity to make the last touch.

The aquaplan is already impeccable: no more traces of moisture on the wall.

Moisture is already down to 96% ...! loudly applauded! : Mrgreen: I cheat a little good is a dehumidifier that runs ... it will see if moisture quickly or not return. I put our USB temperature from inside too!

https://www.econologie.com/shop/enregist ... p-192.html

Are more than to wait ...
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laurent.4680
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by laurent.4680 » 13/08/09, 18:08

Hello Christopher,

Being also facing a moisture problem, by external, wall, underground cellar of my house, I have carefully read your posts.
The solution Aquaplan currently holds my attention.
Could you tell me if 3 months, what is the evolution of the situation? And especially if you have not found capillary rising.
Thanking you in advance,
Good night,

Laurent
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Christophe
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by Christophe » 13/08/09, 20:23

So you do well to go about it. I went there 1 months and the results are not good at all with either the hydraulic mortar or with the Aquaplan. The worst is that the mortar wall.

The room in the photos is still humid (> 95% RH) and the walls are still soggy (it shows off in places).

By cons I do not know if it came from outside or internal condensation (loopback, vicious circle).

So I put a small piece of polystyrene on a wall and after 1 week ... He was too wet outside side.

I assume that there is AT LEAST a portion of the water that comes from air condensation (after all it is ca order to a void ventilated) ... for the rest hard to say! In any case the humidity does not improve ...

At the room or I put the Rectavit the contrary, it is much healthier now (ca reeked of moisisure before) and yet I am the 1ere layer Rectavit! The walls are still wet in places (probably condensation) but it's much, much healthier ...

I wonder if I will not board a layer of recta on 2 other products ...

Anyway the problem / site is not finished ...

You want pictures of the current situation?
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