I create this message following this subject: Deom Turbo wood boiler in order to create a subject forhelp with the installation of a boiler or a boiler stove: diagram, advice, opinion, performance ...
Here are a few loose questions that I ask myself since the combustion of a wood-fired boiler is nothing regular unlike fossil fuel boilers:
1) How to regulate the power transmitted to water?
2) What are the safety devices to put on the circuit?
3) How to determine the optimal flow (circulator)?
4) What to do (or not to do) in terms of use / maintenance in order to extend the life of the assembly?
Etc., etc...
The answers to his questions will come as they go up!
Edit: here is the result in photo and diagram of this subject
https://www.econologie.com/forums/chaudiere- ... t4589.html
Boiler or wood boiler installation
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Boiler or wood boiler installation
Last edited by Christophe the 08 / 11 / 07, 11: 28, 2 edited once.
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Here is the page of a site which was very useful for mounting my
wood boiler.
http://perso.orange.fr/herve.silve/schemasbois.htm
Regarding security, I removed the anti return from the circulator
to facilitate the thermosyphon. In the event of a power failure
the boiler is functional even if it is less efficient.
I installed a thermal valve which is connected to a radiator
place outside to allow the evacuation of the excess heat,
a safety (pressure) valve which is evacuated
outside (the jet is oriented upwards, when it drops the
jet is more than 4 m high, diameter + - 2 m).
Maintenance question you must regularly check that the pressure
is good and the air supply valve does not get stuck.
In my case the boiler is heated by the boiler by
thermo siphon it is desirable to install at the outlet of sanitary water
hot thermostatic mixer. I haven't done it yet
and these hot. The water arrives from 80 ° c with peaks at 90 ° c.
Under these conditions there is no question of touching the
shower mixer. Viewpoint security is not the foot
no more.
In summer I use fir wood, it is easier to manage. In winter
It doesn't matter. Just charge more often when it
it is softwood (dry!).
wood boiler.
http://perso.orange.fr/herve.silve/schemasbois.htm
Regarding security, I removed the anti return from the circulator
to facilitate the thermosyphon. In the event of a power failure
the boiler is functional even if it is less efficient.
I installed a thermal valve which is connected to a radiator
place outside to allow the evacuation of the excess heat,
a safety (pressure) valve which is evacuated
outside (the jet is oriented upwards, when it drops the
jet is more than 4 m high, diameter + - 2 m).
Maintenance question you must regularly check that the pressure
is good and the air supply valve does not get stuck.
In my case the boiler is heated by the boiler by
thermo siphon it is desirable to install at the outlet of sanitary water
hot thermostatic mixer. I haven't done it yet
and these hot. The water arrives from 80 ° c with peaks at 90 ° c.
Under these conditions there is no question of touching the
shower mixer. Viewpoint security is not the foot
no more.
In summer I use fir wood, it is easier to manage. In winter
It doesn't matter. Just charge more often when it
it is softwood (dry!).
0 x
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Superb scheme! (but I already knew this excellent site, I even made a post to present it: https://www.econologie.com/forums/un-excelle ... t4037.html )
Sorry for the delay, but I'm going back to the editing seriously since I would like to make it before winter.
Here is what I would like to do (unless otherwise advised), sorry no diagram our scanner is in the harbor and I'm too lazy to do on PC .
List of equipment being procured:
- 3500 W acova Clarian radiator (see http://www.acova.fr/radiateurs/radiateu ... entral.htm )
- 300L solar storage tank with double exchanger (used, it is 20 years old, but is new, never assembled, found at a heating friend's house for an excellent price ...).
- solar regulation (double comparator with midpoint of the tank)
- expansion tank, mano, circulator, trap ...
- safety group against boiler overheating
Principle of assembly:
In fact we need to overheat water (DHW and heating or the use of a DOUBLE exchanger solar tank) coming from the solar thermal buffer that we already have.
I would therefore like to use the solar balloon "upside down" (not in the mechanical sense but thermal eh!), Ie using the original DHW part in a wood thermal buffer and using the 2 exchangers to pass the "useful" fluid.
The upper exchanger would therefore be used to circulate the DHW and the lower, cooler, for the heated floors.
1st little question: Is it better to bring hot water from the boiler to the tank through the top or bottom connection of the tank?
The radiator would be mounted in parallel and before the tank in order to heat the room concerned in the cellar independently of the tank.
Obviously isolation valves would be placed at strategic locations.
What do you think of the general idea?
Sorry for the delay, but I'm going back to the editing seriously since I would like to make it before winter.
Here is what I would like to do (unless otherwise advised), sorry no diagram our scanner is in the harbor and I'm too lazy to do on PC .
List of equipment being procured:
- 3500 W acova Clarian radiator (see http://www.acova.fr/radiateurs/radiateu ... entral.htm )
- 300L solar storage tank with double exchanger (used, it is 20 years old, but is new, never assembled, found at a heating friend's house for an excellent price ...).
- solar regulation (double comparator with midpoint of the tank)
- expansion tank, mano, circulator, trap ...
- safety group against boiler overheating
Principle of assembly:
In fact we need to overheat water (DHW and heating or the use of a DOUBLE exchanger solar tank) coming from the solar thermal buffer that we already have.
I would therefore like to use the solar balloon "upside down" (not in the mechanical sense but thermal eh!), Ie using the original DHW part in a wood thermal buffer and using the 2 exchangers to pass the "useful" fluid.
The upper exchanger would therefore be used to circulate the DHW and the lower, cooler, for the heated floors.
1st little question: Is it better to bring hot water from the boiler to the tank through the top or bottom connection of the tank?
The radiator would be mounted in parallel and before the tank in order to heat the room concerned in the cellar independently of the tank.
Obviously isolation valves would be placed at strategic locations.
What do you think of the general idea?
0 x
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Thank you for the diagram, you shouldn't have gotten so bad! It is clear that Paint is not a cado that's why I never started a scheme with ...
1) For the power of the exchangers I asked myself the question but after reflection, there is no reason that it is not powerful enough since a 300L solar tank is mounted for a solar system from 6 to 10 m² ... or an instantaneous power of up to 10 kW. So for our mini Deom boiler (see https://www.econologie.com/forums/chaudiere- ... t3487.html ) with a 3,5 kW radiator in // this should be fine ...
The goal of the balloon is to raise a maximum in T ° (90-95 ° C) in order to store the maximum of energy over a period of loading in wood ...
2) For the T ° of the heated floor, there is already a motorized 4-way valve, the wooden tank would therefore overheat between the solar buffer and this mixing valve. The wood boiler would therefore complement the existing solar system.
3) After reflection another mounting is possible:
- exchanger at the bottom of the solar tank = wood boiler circuit
- contents of the tank = DHW = buffer
- top exchanger = heating
Advantage: it guarantees a larger reserve of hot DHW.
Disadvantage: when the boiler does not work must bypass the balloon (also valid in the 1st assembly for an optimization you tell me ... but the ca becomes mandatory)
ps: the heating engineer in question is a guy from LaRoche ... is that in your area right?
1) For the power of the exchangers I asked myself the question but after reflection, there is no reason that it is not powerful enough since a 300L solar tank is mounted for a solar system from 6 to 10 m² ... or an instantaneous power of up to 10 kW. So for our mini Deom boiler (see https://www.econologie.com/forums/chaudiere- ... t3487.html ) with a 3,5 kW radiator in // this should be fine ...
The goal of the balloon is to raise a maximum in T ° (90-95 ° C) in order to store the maximum of energy over a period of loading in wood ...
2) For the T ° of the heated floor, there is already a motorized 4-way valve, the wooden tank would therefore overheat between the solar buffer and this mixing valve. The wood boiler would therefore complement the existing solar system.
3) After reflection another mounting is possible:
- exchanger at the bottom of the solar tank = wood boiler circuit
- contents of the tank = DHW = buffer
- top exchanger = heating
Advantage: it guarantees a larger reserve of hot DHW.
Disadvantage: when the boiler does not work must bypass the balloon (also valid in the 1st assembly for an optimization you tell me ... but the ca becomes mandatory)
ps: the heating engineer in question is a guy from LaRoche ... is that in your area right?
Last edited by Christophe the 02 / 10 / 07, 23: 38, 1 edited once.
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- Shai'ullud
- I learn econologic
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- Registration: 02/10/07, 21:20
Rabbit wrote:In summer I use fir wood, it is easier to manage. In winter
It doesn't matter. Just charge more often when it
it is softwood (dry!).
My workshop heated with wood with the scraps and the fir tree it burns well but must constantly be put back with an incredible production of ashes and require a greater frequency of sweeping, a harder wood will provide more embers guaranteeing a more constant heat.
Avoid the pieces of treated wood lying around, the products inside quickly eat the inside of the boiler
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V ... can I call you like that? (the other I find it difficult to pronounce it ) ...
1) For the ashes, you should install a small Deom ... it empties ... 2 times a year ... otherwise agree on the principle: the tree is not great ...
2) Wood treated in depth is to be avoided in all cases for the harmful emissions they produce when they burn ... if it is to pollute more than with fuel oil, wood loses much of its interest. ..
1) For the ashes, you should install a small Deom ... it empties ... 2 times a year ... otherwise agree on the principle: the tree is not great ...
2) Wood treated in depth is to be avoided in all cases for the harmful emissions they produce when they burn ... if it is to pollute more than with fuel oil, wood loses much of its interest. ..
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- Shai'ullud
- I learn econologic
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Christophe wrote:
2) Wood treated in depth is to be avoided in all cases for the harmful emissions they produce when they burn ... if it is to pollute more than with fuel oil, wood loses much of its interest. ..
And yet, there are lots of little old people to whom it must be explained that it is especially important not to use it for the barbecue ... We are even forced to hide our falls
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Rahh ca les petits vieux and ecology ... it's not really compatible I think ...
If you use them for bbqs, you should tell them (or make a sign): do you like euthanasia?
If you use them for bbqs, you should tell them (or make a sign): do you like euthanasia?
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Bonjour à tous
About little old and ecology, I know one who was very proud to have found a new free weedkiller .... he used his drain oil to clear the turn of his water meter invaded by wild herbs and brambles.
When I explained to him that it was a huge bullshit he looked at me with an air of saying that "is what he is singing to me this one. I could not convince him and make him stop (I am not used to hitting the little old people even if it occurred to me for a moment).
As he continued to clear the turn of the gate, I found the argument for him to stop. I simply said to him: "If the neighbors find the water in their well all irrized, I will report you".
He put away his canister ........... but he started again the following year .....
A+
About little old and ecology, I know one who was very proud to have found a new free weedkiller .... he used his drain oil to clear the turn of his water meter invaded by wild herbs and brambles.
When I explained to him that it was a huge bullshit he looked at me with an air of saying that "is what he is singing to me this one. I could not convince him and make him stop (I am not used to hitting the little old people even if it occurred to me for a moment).
As he continued to clear the turn of the gate, I found the argument for him to stop. I simply said to him: "If the neighbors find the water in their well all irrized, I will report you".
He put away his canister ........... but he started again the following year .....
A+
0 x
Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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LOL damn little old man ... I knew it was drain oil crap but I didn't think it was so "active" like weeding ...
Okay, otherwise I finally started computerizing the boiler assembly diagram! I use DIA which I recommend to everyone: https://www.econologie.com/forums/post59014.html#59014
It is supplied with pre-installed symbols (Civil or Chemical Engineering section concerning sanitary fixtures).
The diagram arrives within the hour ...
Otherwise interesting little link: http://mrw.wallonie.be/energieplus/CDRo ... rendre.htm
Okay, otherwise I finally started computerizing the boiler assembly diagram! I use DIA which I recommend to everyone: https://www.econologie.com/forums/post59014.html#59014
It is supplied with pre-installed symbols (Civil or Chemical Engineering section concerning sanitary fixtures).
The diagram arrives within the hour ...
Otherwise interesting little link: http://mrw.wallonie.be/energieplus/CDRo ... rendre.htm
0 x
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