Doping an internal combustion engine with water vapor

[PITMIX]

Hello
André is right.
You cannot compare water vapor doping with a cylinder head gasket leak.
The water coming into your engine was in liquid form.
The liquid is incompressible and the pecking of your pistons is proof.
The reactor is sucking something that should look like it was going straight into your engine. But with the vacuum, the speed of the fluid, the heat and the very limited volume inside the reactor, what the engine sucks is not like a cylinder head gasket leak.
The vapor is very dry and invisible, it is certainly compressible.
I could disassemble the cylinder head of my old engine on the super 5 to see its condition. I am sure there is nothing.

[Snickers]

Who has spoken of a cylinder head gasket leak? not me anyway...
Yes, well. I'm afraid that the dry steam will cause corrosion of the same name given my experience!
Water (in all these forms), steel, temperature and pressure do not necessarily go well together.
Unfortunately, water does not only have advantages.

I destroyed an engine in 100 km with "only water" and just wanted to share my experience with you not to argue.

Now, if you argue that water can have no negative impact… everyone has their own opinion.

[Other]

Hello
I would not say for water simply because in our climate we work with antifreeze
a simple leak of antifreeze in a cylinder you have 10000 km l episton and the cylinder head is marked
A split eculasse or a sighing joint (does exactly the same results for the introduction of water into the engine, it only returns to the suction cycle)
From the experience that I have on the Jetta a simple leak means that the radiator is pressurized and the engine heats up sufficiently that we can use the car if we do not partially unscrew the plug. an consumption of coolant by evaporation of the expantion vessel

And it is partly due to each start-up where there is a small accumulation of antifreeze which also makes a segment erosion
Already start an engine with an aluminum cylinder head just with pure water the belloseal of the pump does not live old and the engines with aluminum cylinder head an antifreeze provided with the additives for aluminum is necessary and if possible change it every 2 years

Injecting water even when sprayed into an engine causes problems. but steam I didn't notice a problem
It’s true that I haven’t done 100 km like you yet,
It should be understood that the amount of vapor is relatively small when driving in the rain the engine must swallow almost as much water.
In your case if you had opened the engine before you condemned it
l, water of a leak in general go on only one piston, the you can compare with the other piston to draw conclusion ..
A holy engine, if you run it for 5 years just with water you have problems, especially if you add some fresh.

Andre

[zac]

hi snickers

putting water in place of coolant is the best way I know to get a cylinder head down; you live in germany you're lucky with me it wouldn't have been 2000km on a 2.1td.

The water (H²O) boils at 100 ° at sea level, the higher the temperature decreases.
a boiling fluid is almost no longer a heat carrier; so if your thermometer tells you 90; in the cylinder head and around the shirt it is 110 or 130 °. you therefore lose all engine cooling, even if your radiator is only 85 °.

Advice: buy liquid 50/100 glycol or organic (provided by PSA) for your car. Change it every 2 years and stop charging the fleet.

I ride doping with water in a corner where the humidity is between 70 and 90/100; do the calculation of what my engine absorbs as a fleet and you will see that this is not what breaks an engine.

@+

PS: today 30 ° in the shade, 250km including 50 traffic jams the rest in the mountains with 300 kilos of overload; no overheating and 140 on the 4th lane with a C25 2.5l of 300km.
not a drop of consumed oil or coolant.

[PITMIX]

Hello
excuse me snikers i didn't think you'd take my remark wrong.
Just as you observed what happened on your engine, we observed other phenomena and it is clear that they cannot be compared directly.
The use of simple steam may be harmful in the long run, but the use we make of it via the reactor is certainly not.
The traces of corrosion that you observed we also observed them but in the reactor and not in the engine.
It may be what makes the difference I don't know.

[Snickers]

A cylinder that has not seen water



a cylinder that saw it (100 km!)



Valves that have not seen water


valves that have seen water (100 km!)



I go out

[Snickers]

Sorry for the layout ...
It still took me 3 years, 100 km, 000 liters of water to see this!
The metal of the valves is well attacked in the combustion zone, the liners have changed color and were pitted ... we can't see well but it's my best photo.
We also note that for the aluminum parts, nothing, no corrosion. The marks between the valves ... it was me who made them at the second opening to try to close the cracks !
I did not go violent to prevent it from heating ... and in case of exceeding 85 ° C, cutting air conditioning and heating thoroughly especially in Summer !!!
To respond to zac, normally my cars have classic LdR ... in this case, it was no longer possible (1 liters of per 100!). I switched to rainwater very quickly ...
In winter, she slept in the garage and added a little bit of alcohol, in case he expected a frost below -5 ° C! not even afraid...
I wish that the injection of water or steam is not the same long-term effect but ...

[Flytox]

Bonjour à tous

it is gall to weld this aluminum to the TIG one would say that there is always sd ela porosity in the metal, that makes black point which always arise and the breech works enough that it is necessary to rectify it.
[Andre

According to a colleague welder, the cylinder heads are taken ..... to weld with a terrible result because of the presence of silicon in the alloy. It spits as much as it can and makes maximum porosity.

The least bad solution would be not to reload with an aluminum rod in the usual shades but rather to precisely reload with an alpax-type alloy which contains silicon, quite like cutting the 'rod' in an old motorcycle cylinder head fin for example. . (Put the raw metal well to remove the surface layer of alumina just before welding)

Snickers

Corrosion is very important with water without additives. I already threw a 4L cylinder head because it was practically perforated by corrosion (years of adding rather than changing the radiator or the water pump ...)

On my assembly, at the entrance to the intake, I mounted a 3-way solenoid valve which allows me to isolate the steam when I want. I intend to use it in particular to isolate the engine from water and condensation when the engine is stopped.

So I plan to finish the last few minutes of using my steamless engine, so that it has time to 'dry'. I suppose that corrosion takes much longer and is easier to act when the engine is stopped than when it is running.

Economically Yours.

[crispus]

Houla, still images impossible to observe on my small laptop screen!

I don't want to sound like rambling, but I've given a simple recipe for posting readable photos:
see here

[Other]

Hello
On Golf it is in the same place as these cracks between the two valves, hammering them gives nothing it makes the situation worse
when I breathe in a TIG water, I notice that it actually cracks and much further than what we sometimes see double the visual.
Beware of hot cracks are deeper

experience tells me that the cracks between the valves we do not touch the welds it is more on the injector support or around the heating candles, and again this is just true for a repair, but in time not famous.
In a cylinder we still see the traces of stone after 10000 km? unless you iron the stones or the ball brush before resegmenting.
View the amount of crack in this breech rather (Kaput)
water in a cooling system is corrosive at first if you keep the same water it becomes less corrosive, rainwater and more acidic than tap water at least in North America (coal fired USA)
There is another factor if the vehicle is sometimes not used for 8 days or just running small.
Those that I have dismantled with antifreeze runner, there is not as much black scale and spikes on the pistons as gnawed aluminum.

A good 300TD cast iron base, robust construction, for a diesel it is construction, the few kg it gained with aluminum alloy, it loses it over the life of the vehicle
you must unscrew an injector or a candle c, is a fear, if the blacksmith before you did not put antiziese and tserres that like a bear ..

As for the water I make it swallow the steam by the turbo, if there is a place that will eat it is the turbine wheel
it's been 2 years that she walks in the water, and in addition a sip of salad vinegar ..

Andre