Wet wall problem

[Aumicron]

I do not want to be pout-joy but I do not see how the solution of cellular concrete will solve the moisture pb.

What will become of this humidity?

[Christophe]

If there is any left, it will be able to evacuate via the cellular concrete which "breathes" (unlike polystyrenes)

[Aumicron]

We agree. She will return partly in the room so always need the dehumidifier (1 liter of water a day in summer).

From my point of view, this solution is not good: risk at the level of the existing wall, pollution of cellular concrete and what about the woodwork to come?

[Mike12721]

I do not wish to disappoint you but I fear that the multipor, nor the ytong can solve the problem. Yes, the multipor and the ytong breathe, but do not solve the problem of a damp wall.
On the site of the manufacturer of the multipor it is specified that it must be applied to a SEC wall! Treat the source of moisture before applying the multipor or ytong.
As for amateur resin injection kits, this can work if you have a breast wall. That is to say that the stones are still stones in their own right. For me it was a waste of time, as the humidity attacked the stones (the stones became like red sand) the product passed through.

[Christophe]

Hence the importance of knowing where the water comes from before any decision ...

[manitou22]

Hello,
when an old stone wall has capillary rises, the best way to deteriorate it is to block an air space; with the cold wall effect, it will condense behind the insulation and soak it: double deterioration
two solutions
heavy: widen the capillary zone by breaking any concrete slab or screed surrounding this wall, replace it with a hedgehog with a minimum thickness of 20cm, pour a lime-hemp screed then a breathable terracotta floor (the regulation of humidity will then be on a larger surface thus preserving the wall)
light; clear a strip of concrete the thickness of a partition to find the ground, place a hedgehog there and then a rot-proof insulating breathable material (eg cork) at the edge of the concrete strip, install a wooden frame going to the ceiling see as here : http://renovation.maison-grange.fr/2011/10/09/week-end-40-preparations-pour-le-chanvre-chaux-banche-electricite-et-diverses-petites-choses/ the hemp-lime concrete will act as a humidity regulator evaporator for the wall and will avoid concentrating it in a few places. Above all, this concrete must be in good contact with the wall to be treated. Another advantage, made yourself, the budget for this type of site is rather reduced.
A+

[cortejuan]

Hi,

I thought I had THE solution and presto! Back to square one!

That said, it is true that if I knew the source of the humidity it would be good ... I will tackle the problem very soon by cleaning and removing the complaints and wooden borders so as to estimate where this p comes from. ... humidity.

The problem is complex because I have in the extension of this wall, my vaulted and buried cellar and slightly damp like any self-respecting cellar. Is it the cause?

As I suspected that the cause was a lost well close to the wall and into which the water poured from the roof, I moved this well to fifteen meters and it did not change anything.

In terms of major work, the house is very old (between 400 and 300 years old) in limestone. I have no way of intervening on such a construction without risking to destabilize everything.

I keep thinking, but as many of you have pointed out, I should find the cause first.

Thanks again for the comments and advice

[Mike12721]

Dear cortejuan,


Indeed it is necessary to find the source of humidity. If you have driving rain on the wall there are colorless paints that protect the wall from the outside and still let the wall breathe. If you have a roof leak, fix the leak. If you have humidity that rises by capillary action ...
To try the resin injection kits, your wall must be healthy, that is, neither the stones nor the cement can be damaged.
Maybe a quick word of explanation.
The kit contains around twenty small plastic vases, around twenty pipes, a liquid and a 10mm diameter concrete drill bit.
The goal is that you make holes every 30cm, holes 3/4 deep in the thickness of the wall and this at 20cm in height from the ground, the holes slightly downhill.
Then you hang the plastic vases, you insert the pipes in the holes, you receive the holes so that the liquid cannot go out by the entry and then you pour the liquid in the small vases.
Now the goal is that the liquid is distributed gently on the stones and the cement, in the liquid there is a chemical component which reacts with your damp wall and thus creates a layer which does not let moisture pass any more.
Until then the theory.
But....
If your cement is damaged the liquid leaks into the ground and can no longer do its job.
If your stones are damaged the resort liquid on the other side of the wall and can no longer do its job.
This regards the kits.
However there are firms specializing in the treatment of damp walls like Murprotec here in Belgium, in France there must certainly be, but I do not know the names.
These firms work with other more sophisticated products which are certainly more efficient. You can always request a quote and consider later.
I hope these tips are useful to you.

Greetings,

Michel

[Christophe]

Hi,

I thought I had THE solution and presto! Back to square one!

That said, it is true that if I knew the source of the humidity it would be good ... I will tackle the problem very soon by cleaning and removing the complaints and wooden borders so as to estimate where this p comes from. ... humidity.

No, it's not back to square one ... because you have the different solutions in sight!

Yes, you have to know if it is condensation or infiltration ...

You can give it a try quite easily, I already did: take a polystyrene type insulating plate and place it temporarily on the wall (make sure it sticks well to the wall) in a place where it is damp ...

Wait a few days: if the stain on the wall dries up behind the plate, it was condensation!

[cortejuan]

Good evening everyone,

thank you for the advice and explanations regarding the resins. It was very clear.

To answer Christophe, of course I am not going back to square one! I still stay on the cellular concrete option but for now I am looking for the source and I have doubts about the infiltration, on the one hand, I had already isolated (a long time ago and I forgot) with aerated concrete the same wall in an adjoining room (but heated to 15 °). I carefully observed and felt the coating, everything is nickel, no moisture or halos.
On the other hand, a month ago, I grouted my floor tiles. In the inaccessible corners (under the staircase), the rats had completely unsealed them and the air circulated from the cellar to the site in question and there miracle, the wall seems much drier despite the shutdown of the dehumidifier .

So my conclusion, to be confirmed, is that the place is not heated, I have condensation effects due to an air charged with humidity coming from the cellar.

Well that does not tell me if it is compatible with the liter of fleet that I draw daily in summer.

Another question, if I move towards aerated concrete, I intend to leave a space between the wall and the concrete (2 to 3 cm). To improve the insulation, would it be good to fill the space with a vermiculite / perlite mixture (to stay in the mineral)?

Anyway, these old houses being ideal refuges for rodents, I think to fill the first 10 cm of space with the above mixture to avoid offering them a highway between wall and concrete ...

Thank you again for these exchanges. When I get started, I will post pictures.

cordially

.