Ventilation grills (home ventilation)

[moby25]

Hello

In addition to my post on vmc or vmr https://www.econologie.com/forums/vmc-ou-vmr-t9873.html , I will also have to install ventilation grilles.

My new PVC joinery does not have ventilation grilles.

I do not particularly want to pierce them because they are new and waterproof.

What other type of ventilation is there other than the one attached to the top of the windows. On all the VMC diagrams etc, we see that air must come from the windows.

It is possible I also think of putting them on the walls, but is it not risky to damage the insulation behind? I am thinking in particular of the tearing of the vapor barrier of glass wool for example.

please

[dedeleco]

You should know why are you airing, if you really need it ??
humidity, toxic products from your furniture (formaldehyde from agglomerates), allergies, gas or wood combustion, etc.

Otherwise, we are not not all the same, some wash three times a day at the slightest sweat and others once a month while doing as well !!
Oiseautempete sleeps with the window open with the cold at the other extreme, a simple solution without holes !!
So you have to determine your minimum ventilation level necessary and avoid unnecessary holes for you !!
If humidity, you can take a humidity condenser at 100 € (fridge upside down as a dehumidifier) ​​and avoid this large number of holes !!
A hood in the closed circuit kitchen can help.
Standards provide excessive absurd ventilation to avoid any accident with chimney and gas or errors !!
In this case it is better to put a special combustion air supply with the combustion appliance !!
You can pierce the walls instead of the joinery with a few air vents and take a VMC or VMR with adjustable flow from zero to max as needed, otherwise you put the heating heat in the trash (500 € per year and more with the standards! ?

[moby25]

I have a humidity level slightly higher than 60% (let's say 65) when it's around 19 °.

For furniture and toxic products, I don't think anyone is getting away from it today. This is why I would like a minimum of air renewal in the house.

Regarding my heating, it is a pellet stove with its air intake.

[dedeleco]

60% and a little more is good in our French regions especially in rainy weather and therefore not bad !!
Beyond 95% continuous, then there is disaster with molds, but well before if very cold thermal bridge visible by its condensation !!

Otherwise you can make an additional air intake in the wall as for your pellet stove !!!

Depending on the furniture, you can escape it if it is old and not too renovated or not at all so recent, full of chipboard at very low prices with armchairs or sofas of the same Chinese kind !!
But then aeration will not be enough !!!
The simplest for health is to change it for very old furniture that has been slightly renovated !!

[moby25]

The only places where I encounter condensation are the bedroom (small volume) and the bathroom.

I do not understand why in the standards it is well indicated to ventilate well with a lot of air inlets if it is not necessarily useful for everyone.

[aerialcastor]

Il must ventilate.

It’s not just the water vapor evacuating there are a whole bunch of other pollutants: VOC, CO2, odor,
Some combustion devices (stove, boiler, ...) can release CO, odorless, colorless and especially deadly gas at very low doses.

Normally good ventilation "sweeps" the room diagonally.
Cad that the arrival must be opposite the suction mouth.

[moby25]

Concerning the entry drilling in the walls, I will not risk causing a problem by drilling the vapor barrier of the LDV?

[Christophe]

Beyond 95% continuous, then there is disaster with molds, but well before if very cold thermal bridge visible by its condensation !!

Uh 95% continuously, I'm not sure that a bathroom gets there ... even a swimming pool (well managed and not too hot) is less.
Swimming pool = 80 to 90% finally it depends on the energy management because if the air is 2 ° C hotter than the water then, there is no evaporation of the water and we can descend at 60-70% but municipal swimming pools generally favor a cold and humid renewed air rather than a heating of the air beyond the T ° of the water ... It is surely more profitable (considering the architecture most thermally catastrophic swimming pools) ...

By cons for there to be mold, no need to climb as much: all it takes is a good thermal bridge (window frame on old non-insulated walls, lintel ...) which has an average temperature below the point dew and hop it is wet 100% of the time in the cold season ...

[aerialcastor]

Concerning the entry drilling in the walls, I will not risk causing a problem by drilling the vapor barrier of the LDV?

Make a clean cut to cut and tape the vapor barrier on the air inlet grille.

[dedeleco]

The standards foresee immense ventilation to evacuate the CO possible with installations with nonsense capable of bringing back CO so that the well ventilated house, well cooled with an absurd installation, will have no CO.
Only, the poor very badly heated with such aeration to eliminate the potential CO, close the aeration and suffocate, 300 dead per year.
With the professionals, the Lobbies and their insurances, they say it's their fault, they've closed the vents, and refuse to compensate !!!

I even, with other faults, sued my architect, the mason and the chimney installer for such an absurd assembly capable of delivering CO at the slightest leak in the insert exchanger with suction blower after this insert in overpressure compared to the suction blower !!
And the experts decided, that the absurd installation capable of delivering CO if leaked in the exchanger, is within the standards, and only I won in the judgment because the ventilations were less than half the standards, the too much blower in the fireplace, too warm, and the architect had decided not to put a chimney cap, but not for the absurd installation capable of delivering CO !!

With the generally better designed pellet stove, the risk is much lower, but it is good to have a CO detector (no smoke) in good working order !!

Otherwise, I advise you to know your real air renewal rate, because otherwise you will not know if it is excessive (unnecessary heat losses exceeding 500 € per year with certain standards !!) or insufficient !!

Finally so numerous in a house with lots of showers and kitchen we easily reach 100% humidity especially in rainy weather in November and nothing that dries !!!!!!
In a closed door room of 12 to 15 m2 sleeping at two at 20 ° C, I invite you to calculate how much water is needed by weight emitted by respiration (more than 1 liter per person per night) starting from 50% d humidity to see that we easily reach 100% humidity and what limits is condensation on cold spots, at least the windows !!
See on econology, and google, dew point and water vapor.
The humidity is fixed by the temperature of the coldest point which condenses all the excess steam as on the windows or thermal bridge at least, even double glazing !!

But in general it is not very annoying, except overcrowding and large cold point dripping with water and full of molds, as we sometimes see, in addition accusing a water leak which can be imaginary !!!!!
In these extreme cases, airing may not be enough and a dehumidifier with an even colder point is useful, and it is necessary to convince not to take 3 baths a day very hot and steaming, as I saw in my family !!!!

A bathroom with a steaming bath or shower easily reaches 95% and 100% humidity which condenses on at least the cold windows !! (do the calculation with water weight curves as a function of temperature and humidity given by Christophe on econology and other wiki !!)

My family has experienced it repeatedly !!
But there is an optimum between too much caulk and air too much to throw the heating heat outside like in the trash !!