I am currently on an interior insulation site with Unilin UTherm Wall panels in PIR (polyisocyanurate ... better thermal performance than PU) which are normally intended for exterior insulation in hollow walls. .I use it in partial interior insulation (one room and ceiling)
I create this topic to share my experience on this product I will complete it as and when.
First info:
- Lambda: 0.023!
- Price: 14.44 € HT / m² for 82 mm and R of 3.55!
- Grooved languid (easier installation)
The subject of site monitoring is here: insulation-site-of-my-cellar-iti-price-calculation-photos-t12139.html
PIR insulation (polyisocyanurate): experience review of interior insulation with Unilin Utherm Wall
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- Moderator
- posts: 79364
- Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
- Location: Greenhouse planet
- x 11060
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- Moderator
- posts: 79364
- Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
- Location: Greenhouse planet
- x 11060
This is the site is finished at the level of the installation of the Unilin.
My impressions (for installation only, for use it will come later ...)
- materials easy to work but when you cut it a rather unpleasant smell emerges (looks a little but not exactly the same as the smell of a spray of polyurethane foam)
- the only gene that I felt is when we cut finely even with the cuter, there is then a very fine dust not pleasant at all
- almost no falls because we can reuse almost every cm2
- grooving is very significant in wall and ceiling installation
- these panels, doubly coated with aluminum, logically constitute a Faraday cage, the mobile phone network fell to 2/4 bars in the cellar! (this point can be important as a selection criterion, see: https://www.econologie.com/forums/chantier-d ... 39-60.html )
- grid drawn on very appreciable aluminum to trace or even guide when cutting (not present in the competition I think)
- Quite hard and flat to stick a lightweight false ceiling (PVC paneling or light wood) directly on it (I have always battened, see links, but it is doable)
My installation advice:
- cut with a cuter with a large blade and with a guide strip
- always take 5 to 10mm of play when cutting a fitting because I damaged 2 or 3 ends to stuff them by tapping on them because the play was too fair
- if possible, avoid rubbing or cutting very small pieces (dust)
- stickable panels if the surface is fairly flat (not my case)
With the surplus, I made interior insulation of a bathroom...
My impressions (for installation only, for use it will come later ...)
- materials easy to work but when you cut it a rather unpleasant smell emerges (looks a little but not exactly the same as the smell of a spray of polyurethane foam)
- the only gene that I felt is when we cut finely even with the cuter, there is then a very fine dust not pleasant at all
- almost no falls because we can reuse almost every cm2
- grooving is very significant in wall and ceiling installation
- these panels, doubly coated with aluminum, logically constitute a Faraday cage, the mobile phone network fell to 2/4 bars in the cellar! (this point can be important as a selection criterion, see: https://www.econologie.com/forums/chantier-d ... 39-60.html )
- grid drawn on very appreciable aluminum to trace or even guide when cutting (not present in the competition I think)
- Quite hard and flat to stick a lightweight false ceiling (PVC paneling or light wood) directly on it (I have always battened, see links, but it is doable)
My installation advice:
- cut with a cuter with a large blade and with a guide strip
- always take 5 to 10mm of play when cutting a fitting because I damaged 2 or 3 ends to stuff them by tapping on them because the play was too fair
- if possible, avoid rubbing or cutting very small pieces (dust)
- stickable panels if the surface is fairly flat (not my case)
With the surplus, I made interior insulation of a bathroom...
0 x
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thanks for the info, Christophe.
I plan to use this product (or similar) to make an insulation of non-insulated crawlers in order to arrange roof spaces.
I have little height and therefore I would like to lose a minimum of habitable space.
an important problem is that I have no film under the roof and that I do not plan to delve.
so I need a moisture-resistant insulation (or even possible leaks)
I have several solutions:
I can put this complex directly under the rafter in 92 or 110mm thick. it's a bit of a shame to lose the thickness between the rafters.
I can also put this complex between chevron (ep82) by cutting them all to adapt them to the distance between chevron.
in this case, a solution must also be found to seal the rafter / insulator connection. almost mission impossible in my opinion.
other possibility, I put between rafters another more basic polyhuretane cut to the right width (insulating but no waterproofing function) then the less thick Utherm (82mm) continuously under rafter also ensuring the sealing (by a silicone net in the grooves for example)
your opinions?
I plan to use this product (or similar) to make an insulation of non-insulated crawlers in order to arrange roof spaces.
I have little height and therefore I would like to lose a minimum of habitable space.
an important problem is that I have no film under the roof and that I do not plan to delve.
so I need a moisture-resistant insulation (or even possible leaks)
I have several solutions:
I can put this complex directly under the rafter in 92 or 110mm thick. it's a bit of a shame to lose the thickness between the rafters.
I can also put this complex between chevron (ep82) by cutting them all to adapt them to the distance between chevron.
in this case, a solution must also be found to seal the rafter / insulator connection. almost mission impossible in my opinion.
other possibility, I put between rafters another more basic polyhuretane cut to the right width (insulating but no waterproofing function) then the less thick Utherm (82mm) continuously under rafter also ensuring the sealing (by a silicone net in the grooves for example)
your opinions?
0 x
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