Hello,
My oil boiler mess is still broken.
The oil arrives without problem at the pressure tap of the pump but does not arrive at the nozzle outlet, which makes me think that it is the solenoid valve (EV) which is in question.
It's a suntec pump like this http://www.suntecpumps.fr/francais/petitdeb.htm
And more precisely, but I'm not sure (no serial number)
http://www.suntecpumps.fr/images/document/docgenerale/PDFfrancais/ALfr.pdf
I'm not sure it's a normally closed EV, but I think so
Thank you for your help
So the question is how to verify the proper functioning of this EV?
Already the first thing that seems strange to me, it suffices that I turn the EV over so that the punch (punch?) Falls by gravity. It seems strange to me;
Then either the EV is dead or the control panel.
The EV is connected to neutral earth phase. Can we check the condition of the coils with an ohmmeter so?
To verify that the opening order of the Ev is given, it suffices that I measure the phase / neutral voltage. is that right?
Problem solenoid oil burner
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- Grand Econologue
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Problem solenoid oil burner
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Save a tree, eat a beaver.
It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
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Last year I had a problem with our burner which "knocked" and was not stable after start-up.
So 2 or 3 things:
a) I also thought that it was the EV which could be in question but finally after having tried 3 new sprinklers which I thought clogged it was the optical cell which was HS ...
b) During this "intervention" there was a second problem: the level in the tank too low (we only use fuel oil in an emergency, 2L burnt in 200 years and the former owner emptied the tank what I did not did not know). Yet the fuel oil arrived well.
It is not because you can see it happening that there is not a problem of pressure drop upstream of the pump.
You can read the subject in question: https://www.econologie.com/forums/chaudiere- ... t6897.html
Yes the EV is NF. It must be easy enough to test it because it makes noise when it triggers. If not, try changing the nozzle + cleaning the filters.
So 2 or 3 things:
a) I also thought that it was the EV which could be in question but finally after having tried 3 new sprinklers which I thought clogged it was the optical cell which was HS ...
b) During this "intervention" there was a second problem: the level in the tank too low (we only use fuel oil in an emergency, 2L burnt in 200 years and the former owner emptied the tank what I did not did not know). Yet the fuel oil arrived well.
It is not because you can see it happening that there is not a problem of pressure drop upstream of the pump.
You can read the subject in question: https://www.econologie.com/forums/chaudiere- ... t6897.html
Yes the EV is NF. It must be easy enough to test it because it makes noise when it triggers. If not, try changing the nozzle + cleaning the filters.
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Do a image search or an text search - Netiquette of forum
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- Grand Econologue
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- Registration: 10/05/09, 16:39
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A doubt assails me
I reassembled the pump without EV (with a plug instead) and the oil does not come out better at the nozzle outlet. Piss off
But by loosening the regulator (spring screw system which allows you to choose the pressure) the fuel is out.
Is it possible that the pump wears out that it does not become powerful enough to have the required 11bar?
I go up the EV to see if at low pressure the oil comes out at the nozzle outlet.
I reassembled the pump without EV (with a plug instead) and the oil does not come out better at the nozzle outlet. Piss off
But by loosening the regulator (spring screw system which allows you to choose the pressure) the fuel is out.
Is it possible that the pump wears out that it does not become powerful enough to have the required 11bar?
I go up the EV to see if at low pressure the oil comes out at the nozzle outlet.
0 x
Save a tree, eat a beaver.
It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
Yes quite.
check of the coil to the ohmmeter quite possible (coil disconnected) the resistance must be not null but greater than zero.
If ok, you can actually control the supply of the coil to the voltmeter.
After, since it is more or less a safety device, I think it's perhaps normal that the needle falls by gravity, suddenly the possibility of mounting is important.
But I have never encountered this type of solenoid valve. All of the ones I’ve taken apart so far have a spring.
Maybe it should be removed to see the condition of the membrane, that the holes are not blocked (there are 2 on the membrane, one in the center, the other on an edge)
that the core slides correctly, and if there is a spring, that it is in good condition.
check of the coil to the ohmmeter quite possible (coil disconnected) the resistance must be not null but greater than zero.
If ok, you can actually control the supply of the coil to the voltmeter.
After, since it is more or less a safety device, I think it's perhaps normal that the needle falls by gravity, suddenly the possibility of mounting is important.
But I have never encountered this type of solenoid valve. All of the ones I’ve taken apart so far have a spring.
Maybe it should be removed to see the condition of the membrane, that the holes are not blocked (there are 2 on the membrane, one in the center, the other on an edge)
that the core slides correctly, and if there is a spring, that it is in good condition.
0 x
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Ah so if it's not the EV it's a problem either of pump or "plug" upstream or downstream ...
I assume you have already cleaned your filters and hoses?
I assume you have already cleaned your filters and hoses?
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Do a image search or an text search - Netiquette of forum
you are on the right track
measure resistance by disconnecting all wires
it must be greater than zero - if zero equal cut = HS
then measure the resistance compared to the mass
if you have a low value = coil to ground = HS - or do a dielectric insulation check (around 1000 or 2000 volts)
then measure the voltage across the EV when the burner is in operation (or in simulated operation)
if you don't have tension, it will come from the command
then try to power your EV independently with a power supply from a socket
normally with all this (or one of the elements) you will have to help yourself out or at least find the breakdown
the whole thing is to have at least one controller (volts and ohmeter) at best the necessary to make a dielectric (magneto or equivalent)
measure resistance by disconnecting all wires
it must be greater than zero - if zero equal cut = HS
then measure the resistance compared to the mass
if you have a low value = coil to ground = HS - or do a dielectric insulation check (around 1000 or 2000 volts)
then measure the voltage across the EV when the burner is in operation (or in simulated operation)
if you don't have tension, it will come from the command
then try to power your EV independently with a power supply from a socket
normally with all this (or one of the elements) you will have to help yourself out or at least find the breakdown
the whole thing is to have at least one controller (volts and ohmeter) at best the necessary to make a dielectric (magneto or equivalent)
0 x
An anecdote about fuel oil boilers, which probably has nothing to do with the problem.
A few years ago my parents had their old boiler replaced by a brand new German model (blue flame and all the mess)
After commissioning it did not work properly. The flame held for a moment and then cut on its own. Since it was late the installer threw in the towel, planning to return the next day.
The same evening when I get home from work I go to see the new installation, my father explains the problem to me. We do a test and make the observation of use. This is where I saw air bubbles pass through the prefilter's jar.
The installer forgot to tighten a fitting and air was drawn in. A keystroke and the problem was resolved.
A few years ago my parents had their old boiler replaced by a brand new German model (blue flame and all the mess)
After commissioning it did not work properly. The flame held for a moment and then cut on its own. Since it was late the installer threw in the towel, planning to return the next day.
The same evening when I get home from work I go to see the new installation, my father explains the problem to me. We do a test and make the observation of use. This is where I saw air bubbles pass through the prefilter's jar.
The installer forgot to tighten a fitting and air was drawn in. A keystroke and the problem was resolved.
0 x
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- Grand Econologue
- posts: 865
- Registration: 10/05/09, 16:39
- x 21
Well, well seen Christophe it was not the low pressure EV no bp.
I serve myself directly in a can, precisely to avoid the problem of air draw which I had already heard of.
It looks good to a pb of dirt or plug, which is very problematic because there I draw from the bottom of the tank (except for repairs).
I will clean it more carefully.
But can the pump wear out?
Because in fact it has been for a few weeks, she went into safety every 2/3 days then more and more often until she did not restart.
I serve myself directly in a can, precisely to avoid the problem of air draw which I had already heard of.
It looks good to a pb of dirt or plug, which is very problematic because there I draw from the bottom of the tank (except for repairs).
I will clean it more carefully.
But can the pump wear out?
Because in fact it has been for a few weeks, she went into safety every 2/3 days then more and more often until she did not restart.
0 x
Save a tree, eat a beaver.
It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
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