Car battery Arktis jelly voltage 1.6V: Recoverable?

And if they were repairing rather than throwing and change? Rediscover the pleasure of the repairs yourself. How to diagnose a problem or find spare parts? Repair itself is way to save money generally!
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I Citro
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by I Citro » 21/03/12, 11:43

chatelot16 wrote:... from charge to discharge the antimony is electrolyzed and redeposited in the active lead: this antimony promotes the electrolysis of water to the detriment of the real charge: the battery consumes more and more water and its capacity becomes lower and lower
Interesting. :|
I now fill my electric cars with water every 3000 km approximately and each time I also top up the water in the 12V battery which consumes on average 40 ml.
These are inexpensive batteries with caps of approximately 40Ah.

I put this significant consumption of water (200ml per year) on the fact that this battery is very stressed and attached to the Webasto boiler.
:|

On one of the 2 cars, I mounted the desulfator unit that I had mounted on the Volvo (it was part of a kit that had extended me a HS battery of 22 months)
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by Macro » 21/03/12, 14:55

Personally if I can't get my motorcycle battery to start again. Will be purchased a sealed lead battery and put into service on my solar electric gate. That way it will do something and will always be charged. The day I need the becane I put it back on and I open the gate by hand ... : Cheesy:
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by chatelot16 » 21/03/12, 16:41

when I pass in front of a bucket or there are batteries, I pick up the most recent ... and I often have good surprises to find them perfectly usable

there are so many mechanics who start by changing the battery and who reflect after
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by Macro » 21/03/12, 20:40

this one too she's dead ... Amen..No way to get her over 10.4v ...
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Re: Arktis car battery frozen, voltage at 1.6V: recoverable?




by Christophe » 27/02/16, 11:28

Same syndrome with a 12V 12Ah motorcycle battery that I did not turn or unplug for 18 months :( I know it's not biennn !!!

So this morning I decide to take care of it: already the minus terminal is sulfated ... well, not too serious ... I'm brushing ...

a) Battery voltage 1.55V ... the smart charger (optimate) does not even take the charge (logic)
b) I am mounting a car battery which is still ok
c) The charger takes charge (but where does the current go?)
d) 10 minutes after I disconnect the auto and cool battery, the charger continues to charge the motorcycle battery.

I'll keep you posted if recovery works ...
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Re: Arktis car battery frozen, voltage at 1.6V: recoverable?




by Christophe » 27/02/16, 11:41

ps: note, the charger is in regeneration mode (variable voltage on cycle from 2 seconds from 12 to 15 V) ...
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Re: Arktis car battery frozen, voltage at 1.6V: recoverable?




by dirk pitt » 27/02/16, 18:50

Christophe wrote:ps: note, the charger is in regeneration mode (variable voltage on cycle from 2 seconds from 12 to 15 V) ...


I'm not sure that's it.
in fact there are chances that the resistance of your battery being greater than normal, it "takes" the current with difficulty.
so the voltage rises quickly and the charger stops. but the voltage goes down quickly also so the charger starts again, etc.
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Re: Arktis car battery frozen, voltage at 1.6V: recoverable?




by dede2002 » 27/02/16, 19:29

I have never observed this phenomenon? And I charged many of the batteries.

On the other hand, putting a large charged battery in parallel on a small discharged one seems dangerous to me (except a few seconds to prime the charger). When the little one takes charge there can be a very high amperage.
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Re: Arktis car battery frozen, voltage at 1.6V: recoverable?




by Christophe » 27/02/16, 21:57

dirk pitt wrote:I'm not sure that's it.


Bin obviously it works: charger disconnected the battery stabilizes (for the moment, after 8 hours of "intelligent" charging) towards 12V ... at 0 A of discharge current obviously ...

The rest tomorrow ...
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Re: Arktis car battery frozen, voltage at 1.6V: recoverable?




by Christophe » 27/02/16, 22:02

dede2002 wrote:On the other hand, putting a large charged battery in parallel on a small discharged one seems dangerous to me (except a few seconds to prime the charger). When the little one takes charge there can be a very high amperage.


Yes for the very high amperage: I also thought about it: but no: no spark when "connecting"! Surely the internal resistance of the motorcycle battery was too great when it was at 1.5V ?? In any case, it seems to have been greatly reduced since the load continues ...
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