Temperature buffer wood?

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loulou59
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Temperature buffer wood?




by loulou59 » 27/11/09, 21:02

Hello,
I just installed a wood boiler with a tamon balloon and I have some questions already is it normal that the bottom of my ball is always at a temperature in the lap of 30 ° while the water of my balloon is at 70 ° see even times 80 ° is it is normal that I take a lot of time to have my buffer tank at temperature I need about 3 hours of heating my balloon is a 800 L because lack of space is my boiler is a 30KW so normally this should go faster ??
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by loop » 27/11/09, 21:29

Hello ,

So yes, the phenomenon you observe for the distribution of the temperature in the buffer tank is called stratification.
Since the hot water charge is from the top, the bottom of the tank will heat up last.

For the duration of loading of the balloon the calculation is the following one:

heat capacity of water 4.18 Kj / Kg.K is 1.16 Wh / Kg.K

With a temperature delta of 60 °: it is assumed that the 800L flask is cold initially with 20 ° c and reaches 80 ° C

Result: you need 1.16 wh x 800 x 60 = 55.68 KWh

If 100% of the theoretical power of the boiler feeds the flask, the whole stock will be at 80 ° C after 55.68 / 30 = 1.86 h is 1 h and 51 min.

If the house is heated at the same time, some of the power is discharged elsewhere than in the buffer, which delays the loading.

Afterwards, it is necessary to look at the effective efficiency of the installation and the insulation of the balloon.

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by Christophe » 27/11/09, 21:44

If you do not need 800L, it's interesting to have a big gradiant because:

a) you are heating from below = better heat exchange
b) the hot water comes out or the calories are taken from the top = the fact that it is 30 ° C down does not change anything

If not look at this link https://www.econologie.com/forums/bois-energ ... t4267.html he will complete the looping answer!
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by loulou59 » 28/11/09, 17:16

ok thank you for your answer that reassures me, I have a last question on my installation scheme of the 21 ladomat it is recommended to put a smoke casing thermostat to avoid the water that is in the balloon that would for example 80 ° does not redecende 63 ° (temperature ladomat) when my boiler no longer heats (that's what happens) but I can not find this one in the trade even the company that my sold my balloon is the same do not even know this object would be you or I can make me founir.
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by loop » 28/11/09, 21:51

Hello ,

I did a search with Ladomat 21 and came across this interesting document:

http://www.bumatherm.be/PDF/BallonTampon.pdf

The buffer balloons are made by SolarBayer and can be ordered directly in Germany.

The Ladomat diagram is shown here in assembly on the "return" and it guarantees a minimum temperature of the water circulating in the boiler, which avoids dew point and bistrage problems.

The casing thermostat is used here as an electrical relay to start the Ladomat circulator when the fireplace is active, and stop when the fire is off.
Other systems have a temperature sensor in the boiler's heating element, as for oil-fired boilers.
It is probably easier to use a conventional thermostat because easier to find.
Do not leave the pump running for 2 reasons:
Saving electrical energy (when the fireplace is off)
Do not continue to circulate the water in the heating element because it will lose heat in the chimney (although in principle, the thermovalve is closed and no longer allows circulation to the buffer tank)

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by loulou59 » 30/11/09, 16:53

ok thank you for the scheme but I had it already but the intention is good. By cons, for the room thermostat I do not see how it can be useful, I have already put a on my valve 3 ways to regulate the heat of the house and rather than always to heat the radiators this one cuts the arrival of the hot water of the house is at temperature. Thus, my balloon heats much faster. But put a thermostat to cut my ladomat, I do not understand the principle because, it's not because my house and even my water are at temperature that my boiler is lit and vice versa. is not because my house or even my water is not at temperature that my boiler is not in function because it can be right at the beginning of heating so it is imperative that my circulator is fed. What for me this fireplace thermostat or even a temperature sensor but I do not know the principle of these famous probes and the advantage of the smoke thermostat and I can adjust the cutoff temperature.
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by Christophe » 30/11/09, 16:56

Note: the prices of the buffer balloons are high (for what it is!)

You can make a wooden stamp of 1000 L with a cubi of occasion for less than 100 € and not to put several in serie!

For new homes or big renovation, we can do a concrete cuvage (that's what we have) for a price m3 stored very low!

It remains "just" to find or manufacture the heat exchangers!

Tigger has made one for his solar / wood installation!
Read here: https://www.econologie.com/forums/l-installa ... t5200.html

In addition: no risk of CORROSION that kills the buffer tank! By cons you can not put pressure obviously.
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by loulou59 » 30/11/09, 17:40

Domage for me I did not know that it was feasible : Cry: but that does not change my problem to find my famous smoke thermostat
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by loop » 30/11/09, 22:03

Hello

as for the room thermostat I do not see how it can be useful to me


I never talked about a room thermostat

the advantage of the smoke thermostat and that I can adjust the cutoff temperature.


It's not specific to the thermostat you're looking for.
It is much easier to use a boiler thermostat (or calorstat, finally call it the way you want) because the temperature range is normal (90 ° while the fumes can reach + 200 ° C)

Example here:

Image

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by loulou59 » 01/12/09, 07:29

Sorry Looping I misunderstood you,
at the boiler thermostats how do they work (water temperature, boiler or other) how will you know me that my boiler does not heat up even if the water is hot?
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