Wood flooring and underlay

[Pat-Garrett]

Hello,


This is my first post since a long time that I read this super forum !

I renovate an old 1920 house, in the north, Oise to be precise.
After 2 years for the development work we move to comfort work and I would like to put a wooden floor recovery (pallox orchard about), so it's pine.

I wish to put it on the various tiles of the DRC, we slaughtered partitions and so we have a beautiful mosaic
The main goal is also better thermal comfort.
There is no crawl space, and the house is prone to slight rise in humidity and besides it seems that the previous owner has proceeded to infiltrations to treat the problem.

The question is: should I lay an under layer or not?

Will not that make things worse by blocking natural evaporation? And increase the lifts in the walls?

If it takes one, what under layer to predict?

We will change the windows for double glazing so not too much trouble for the thickness.

cordially
Pat

[Pat-Garrett]

Good Bin I'm doing a bump

But I assure you that I searched and that I did not find an answer in other subjects .....

Ok, often, it is advisable, to put on joists, but hello the taf, and worse the meter for the windows is past, we left on 2cm of wood + 1 cm of possible under layer ....

So a priori I focus on a glued pose ....
If it is really to proscribe I would make 1cm fine floating or glued joists, filled with insulation and parquet glued on top of the floor.

A+

[Ahmed]

It is true that it is not easy to produce a relevant answer without knowing precisely all aspects of the problem.

I will tend to be suspicious and avoid gluing; to arrange a blade of air with joists, even if their thickness is weak, seems to me preferable to avoid further disappointments ...

[BobFuck]

With a nail spear and an electric miter cut (both are easily available for rent) the joist installation is fast, and not particularly difficult. Hammer is longer and it hurts the fingers. So do not be afraid, and in addition, it does not release VOC ...

[Pat-Garrett]

Yes it's true you're right, but what scares me the most is the joists on the tiles, because drilling the tiles .....

[BobFuck]

The joists, you do not fix them, you put them on the ground, that's all ...

On the other hand it is necessary to wedge below to equalize the small differences of level.

[Christophe]

So:

a) The tiling is piercing, I just do it with new and apparent tiling as part of thermal renovation of my cellar: https://www.econologie.com/forums/chantier-d ... 12139.html

A concrete wick must be used without percussion, press gently but firmly at the beginning and once the enamel is "attacked" it goes like butter!

b) Why not sink a little tying mortar on all your big room? This would also correct any lack of flatness or height of different tiles.

c) Photos of your site are always welcome and can give us more ideas ...

[Pat-Garrett]

BobFuck: Ha cool, I'm not sure it's happening!
Otherwise I would put glue points, as I proposed in my first message, or it's bullshit?

Christophe: Ha! I do not have the right technique or the right know how, I just tore tiling to fix rails for a partition BA13, a real galley even with special tile bit, I ended up drilling in the joints

Otherwise my tile seems to be almost perfectly flat, for the stone part, the tile part, I'll check anyway, but if I could avoid flowing anything it would be great because the site must be passable and to experience the onslaught of toddlers of which an apprentice walker who is in age touches everything

But you are rather for the joists if I understand well, so that means that globally you think that a simple under layer + PV is not a good idea?

Ok I send you photos, it will be easier, it's clear !!

thank you
A+

[loopyng84]

Hello everybody


I just finished building a site for a client who looks a lot like the one
the customer ask me to ask him a layer of extruded poly 20 mm of this type http://www.bricodepot.fr/avignon/pannea ... prod11970/
. then a laminate floor to clip, I first cast a re-aggression and then glued
poly panels
the problem is that if there is only 30 mm 20mm of panels + 20 of pine blades it makes 10 too much

[Pat-Garrett]

Yeah it's ballo!

But if I make 1cm joists (OSB or plywood cutting or better?) And I fill the whole thing with rockwool bag it does not?

Otherwise the room is about 8x5, the joists are not as big, how to handle it if they are not stuck to the ground?
If the junction of the joists is several cm (juxtaposition) that will suffice?

Otherwise it will be pine recovered on pallox, no grooving and the edges are rounded in length, I'm afraid it will fart with nail, a point of glue kind sika it would? In addition it would be more beautiful than to see all the nails ....

Photos coming on my return ....
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