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Biker-74
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Convert 12V cc to 12V ca search products or tips




by Biker-74 » 08/12/09, 15:02

Hello from a beginner to this forum.

My situation:
In my garden, I have a pool of water with plants and live fish.
    - I have a small PV panel that can generate up to 60W.
    - A pump to make a fountain, and to pass some of the pumped water through a simple mechanical filter (brushes). The pump is sold for 12V c / c, 17 W.
    - A battery that stores some of the electricity generated by the panel. (Regulator, etc.) Like this, the installation works in the evening too, but not all night. That's enough for me.
What's going well:
It works for more than 5 years.
    - The pump does its work. I do not try to run 24 / 24 or 365 / 365. It is mainly designed for aesthetics (the fountain) and for rinsing the water (the filter).
What will less good:
    - The water is not so clean that I wish. (I do not know if the fish share my point of view, they made small this year, but still ...)
My needs:
I had the advise to install a UV filter for water. When I mentioned that I am at the PV panel, the vendors of the UV filters mice and tell me that it is lost. I take this as a challenge ...
    -I found a UV filter at 11 W. But sold for 220V c / a. In fact, there is an external transformer of 220V c / a to 12V c / a which feeds the UV filter unit by a well insulated cable of 3 meters. In the filter is a set of electronics that I did not even try to understand. But as I understand it, the UV lamp works with c / aa the end. (True or must?)
    - To check my thoughts, I plugged in one of those simple "inverters" sold in supermarkets. It takes the 12V c / c from the battery and generates 220V c / a. (Not very sinusoid, but it works.) There, I connected the transformer supplied with the UV filter, which transforms the 220V to 12V a / c and gives the result to the electronics in the filter.
    - All of this is very inefficient in theory. And in reality, I also noticed that there is a good loss of energy. I believe this low cost "inverter" is the biggest cause of it.
I research:
    - A solution to transform my 12V c / ca 12V a / c, without going through the 220V a / c. More sure, and I think also more effective. I'm not ready to start building it myself, not even after detailed property plans. I would like to find a unit that could do it in one go. I am ready to change hands if I have to. I am comfortable with my little soldering station. But I do not find the time or commitment to start building all that. I will want to buy it.

    - But what to buy? And or?


cordially
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Alain G
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by Alain G » 08/12/09, 15:34

Biker-74

Welcome to econology!

Is your lamp a fluorescent type?

You can simply use the smallest inverter that will be closest to the consumption of your lamp, you will have less loss.


Now! What is the purpose of disinfecting water this way while water lilies or other aquatic plants will do the work of filtration?

In addition, your fish will be more fragile to diseases if you do not leave them in a good or bad bacteria.
:D
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by rescwood » 08/12/09, 15:38

UV filters for water bodies is a scam. In water treatment, UV is used for water purification but not for purification.

To improve the turbidity, we must rather review the filtration: residence time, rate of percolation in the filter substrate, filtration rate, ... etc ...
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by dirk pitt » 08/12/09, 15:42

I think it is better to dig into the idea of ​​supplying the UV lamp with DC. although some inverters first manufacture low voltage AC and then pass through a transformer, I don't think there is a "ready-made" device for your application.
is it a lamp or a fluorescent tube (the 2 exist)?
give us a link or a reference
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Biker-74
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by Biker-74 » 08/12/09, 15:56

Using the UV filter:
I far to be expert about the subject, but ... Since my first filter installation, experimentially, I noticed a difference significant that I have not managed to get with the aquatic plantations already present in the basin.

That Plane For Me...

Small inverters

Yes, the smallest "inverter" I have found is 150W which remains considerably larger than the 11W indicated for the UV filter. And I have to go through the 220V. Outside. Which I would like to avoid, if possible.

Biker-74

PS As you all guess by now, my mother tongue is not French ... Thank you for your efforts to decipher my questions. ;-)
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Biker-74
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by Biker-74 » 08/12/09, 16:05

This is a link to the tube in question:

http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lampg8t5.html


Ahem, yes, it's 8W, not 11W as I said earlier. ;-)


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by elephant » 08/12/09, 16:46

In theory, it is possible to supply it in high frequency via an N555 and a transistor, with a small self in ballast or a regulation in current on the emitter of the transistor (it is better). We also find this kind of assembly done in camping lights, from 6 or 9 volts. But given the low economic interest of the case, we will not embark on a prototype.
By looking carefully in the camping shelves, you could find a device of this kind, using a "visible" tube of the same power. It was also used in counterfeit detectors.
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by Christophe » 08/12/09, 19:05

rescwood wrote:UV filters for water bodies is a scam. In water treatment, UV is used for water purification but not for purification.


Mmmm not 100% agree: the action of UV-c is a bactericidal treatment known and recognized for a long time.

And eliminating certain bacteria, especially microalgae - cyanobacteria, helps maintain a low water turbidity ... so it is part of the purification ... prevention!

What is a scam on the other hand is the price of UV for pond !! They cost a fortune compared to the power emitted ...
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by Biker-74 » 08/12/09, 19:39

Christophe wrote:What is a scam on the other hand is the price of UV for pond !! They cost a fortune compared to the power emitted ...


Okay. 100%. To find a spare tube, I tried in the big sellers of lamps, lights, bulbs, etc. in my area. Nada. And yet, it's 'standard' products. He does not want to complicate their lives.

Return to the resellers of equipment for ponds and ponds. And it costs horribly expensive.

The alternative, to order glass tubes, delicate and still relatively expensive, by mail since a mail order does not speak to me too much.

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by Forhorse » 08/12/09, 20:02

elephant wrote:By looking carefully in the camping shelves, you could find a device of this kind, using a "visible" tube of the same power. It was also used in counterfeit detectors.


+1

It is more and more easy to find fluorescent resets with electronic balast powered directly in 12Vcc, on the net or in the accessories camper.
The sterilization tubes are exactly the same except for the fluorescent coating inside the tube. So we can without any trouble feeding the sterilizer tube with the balast of this kind of reglette.
This will be the most efficient from a performance point of view.

Now the 12V-230V / 150W converter solution is what I use for lighting my stable and the performance is not so disastrous. Finally for the 1 hours and a few lighting I need every day the losses are negligible.
I have 58W lighting in 230V (2 * 11W flucocompact + 36W fluorescent tube to electronic ballast)
So loaded the approximate performance of my little converter 30 € is close to 92% (I did not measure the 230V side, I rely on the announced power of the lamps)
it makes 3W of losses to break everything, so it's not dramatic.
The whole thing is powered by an 132Ah battery (one of 70 and one of 62 in parallel) which are loaded by a 80Wc board and its MPPT regulator
I thus have almost a week without sun, 7 hours of lighting, before the voltage of the batteries passes under the 12V
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