Solar home project: heating + electricity

[speedo]

Hello everyone, I want to experiment with solar heating tubes for an old stone house.
the floor being made of tomettes, I opted for a solution low temperature heating by the soil constituted as follows.

- 1 18 solar heating tubes
bricodepot.fr/chartres-luisant/chauffe-eau-solaire/panneau-solaire-pour-chauffe-eau
- 1 hot water storage tank 250 liters (old water heater)
- 2 floor heating tube PER 16, total length 70 m approximately spaced 25 cm, under the tomettes, directly trench in the sand.
- 1 water circulator (bearing 4m)
- works with glycol at 20% (no domestic hot water)

all for a surface of 35 m2

Question: What have you done with this kind of installation?
if yes: temperature of the water at the outlet of the solar collector? (There is very little data on the performance of his tubes on the net ...)

Thank you !!!

[Christophe]

In the absence of data of sunshine and orientation of your roof as well as of an energy balance, it is impossible to give you an answer which is not "of the big nonsense" (style of answer of commercial: buy ca will work).

What must be remembered is that it is not the T ° which is important but the useful power, that is to say, indirectly, the surface of the solar panels installed! Better 10 m² in "simple" collector (see map EPDM) than 1 m² in vacuum collector with 98% efficiency and rare gas and all the mess ...

You will never recover more than what the sun shines on 1 m² and it does not shine much on 1 m² ... look for the best performance panels at any price is not the right solution ...

I do not understand what you mean with your 35m²? This is the surface to heat or solar on the roof?

Because you will never be able to do solar heating with only 18 vacuum tubes and without big buffering ...

For the "+ electricity" of the title I do not understand either ...

[I Citro]

Do you already know the energy performance of the house to equip.

Imagine that a house is like a bucket with holes and your heating is the tap that is used to fill the bucket.
The good method is to fill the holes in your bucket (isolate) before thinking of filling it ...

Since you're talking about heating an old house, start with that,
everything else will become much more profitable AFTER ...

[speedo]

Hi Christophe, thanks for the answer !!

1 / "edf" energy balance
"housing with low energy consumption (class C). Estimated conventional energy consumption (heating, domestic hot water, cooling) is 150 kWhep / m².year *"

- new 4-16-4 PVC doors and windows
- stone walls 80cm + 7 cm insulation
- the house is on cellar at 70%
- high floor 2 crossed layers rockwool

2 / solar heating panel:
- South-west oriented, inclined to 35 °
- surface: 2,7 m²
- Thermal power announced 1500W / h (that's what I would like to check)
- Buffer: 250 liters, whole system: 380 liters approx
- heated floor on 35 m²



'For the "+ electricity" of the title ...'

3 / My solar electrical installation:
- 3 solar panels 95 w
- South orientation to 35 °
- MPPT 30 A Solar Charge Controller
- Battery AGM 200 amps 12 volts
- 1500 / 3000 Watts Voltage Converter

everything is already installed and in test phase, no question for that ...

there is no "edf" in this house, because I had the meter dismantled 6 years ago

Thanks also to citro, for the good method if i asked this question it is that i have already plugged the holes of the bucket ..

Question: Which of you has already installed solar tubes?
if yes: temperature of the water at the outlet of the solar collector? let's say by a nice day of December to 16h00 ..., I need this info to determine the type of thermostatic valve to use ...

Thank you all !!!

[I Citro]

Ah, but it's all different ...
You are looking for autonomy.

On a foggy December day (veiled sun), I saw planar sensors coming out of the water at over 40 °.

For your insulation, it still seems a little light.

I do not understand for the thermostatic valve.
Normally, they are probes that inform the management electronics how to take the calories in the sensor and trigger the circulator. On my CESI schuco, the circulator is even variable flow to optimize the energy extraction of the sensor.

[speedo]

Hello Citro !! thank you for the information !!!
- because there is no management electronics in this system, (if it could be thermo siphoned I would like it even more but it's not possible with such small tubes ...)
- I want to regulate the hot water / cold water mixing by thermostatic valve, in order to bring the low temperature floors to 30 °, while storing the potential of hot water not used during the day (heating period) in order to use it night (solar part bypassed).

the choice :

type 1:
- Setting range: from 35 ° C to 65 ° C

type 2:
- Setting range from 25 to 55 ° C.

... and I hesitated a lot ... I think I opt for the 1 type

- I hope to have water at 50 ° for 6h a day, and I do not know what it will give in terms of comfort ... all this is experimental ...

- It is true that the insulation is not at the top, but there is 2 months again, with the old doors and windows it was the hotel drafts absolute !!!

Thanks again, cool this site.

[speedo]

I went to see the doc 'your regulator, it is done to make hot water in addition to heating, it looks pretty good, I'm not there yet, it must be nice your installation.

- P 'tite precision: I intend to connect my circulator on an electric programmer ...
- P'tite question: an idea of ​​the timing to adopt ??

Thank you for any suggestion !!

[I Citro]

In my case, it's just a solar water heater.

For the thermosipĥon, the diameter of the tubes does not matter, it is just the configuration of the installation that allows it or not.
It is rare to have the sensors lower than the floor to be heated ...
This is why commercial installations systematically include a circulator.

[ecolo33]

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[antoinet111]

spammer

you eat solar apper and companion bread.

to make money on the account of Co² is ignoble.