Hard part for heating, insulation or changing the windows?
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Ah OK thank you! But sd = 0.05 (= 5cm of equivalent air) it's weak then for a vapor barrier no ???
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Christophe wrote:swift2540 wrote:Hi,
this "little" radiator has a power of
1300w if it is supplied with 90 ° water
910w if it is supplied with 70 ° water
650w if it is supplied with water at 60 ° (boiler flow temperature or v3v).
Indeed, a 2nd radiator in the other part would not be superfluous.
This is for caloric intake.
Ah hat for the estimate, you "guessed" how?
I didn't guess, I have a paper version of a conversion table for a similar radiator, yaka read
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Regarding thin insulators, I read a technical opinion from the cstc (= Belgian cstb). Basically he said that well placed ie 2cm air gap + tested product + 2cm air gap (this is the request of the manufacturers) = in the best case 6cm ldv.
Considering the price, it's expensive insulation.
For dirk pitt:
Have you put a wall or ceiling (a plasterboard) between the insulation and the "room"?
Otherwise, the test is not in real conditions.
For lumberjack:
If I understand correctly, better a vapor retarder with weak sd in the rooms except in the bathroom where too much steam is likely to rot the woodwork, so evacuate it rather by vmc
Considering the price, it's expensive insulation.
For dirk pitt:
Have you put a wall or ceiling (a plasterboard) between the insulation and the "room"?
Otherwise, the test is not in real conditions.
For lumberjack:
If I understand correctly, better a vapor retarder with weak sd in the rooms except in the bathroom where too much steam is likely to rot the woodwork, so evacuate it rather by vmc
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Woodcutter wrote:
The one I'm talking about was approved for direct contact with the insulation and showed an XDUMX Sd I think. It is used as a rain cover under cover and in this case it is interesting to limit summer heat in crawling parts without having a large thickness of material.
It seems that you are talking here about an under-roof screen, Tyvek Reflex type (too bad for advertising) and not an insulator; I almost opted for this type of screen, supposed to stop the infrared emitted by tiles or slates and therefore all or part of their radiation; for convection and conduction heat, we hope that the air space between the screen and the tiles will take care of removing it.
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Christophe wrote:Ah OK thank you! But sd = 0.05 (= 5cm of equivalent air) it's weak then for a vapor barrier no ???
If we are talking about the same Bucheron and I product, then it should be specified that it is not really a vapor barrier since it is classified HPV, ie Highly Permeable to Water Vapor and it is this characteristic which allows a direct installation on insulation.
The usefulness of an under-roof screen is in particular to be as permeable as possible to water vapor coming from inside the building (so that it can migrate towards the outside) while being waterproof to possible water infiltration from outside.
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ecological house: isolate ... in the right place
Hello
in severe months, I had the same problem at home (160 m2 on 2 levels, advances, heating thoroughly to arrive at a temperature of 19,5 ° etc;
I had left to change the windows etc;
Then I said to myself before slamming 8000 euros and more with the rest of the work, if I did detect where the problems came from
I brought a thermal camera (with its operator) for € 490 including tax and the guy photographed everything.
Conclusion: no need to change windows, however work on seals, thermal bridges etc. Certainly it will be impossible to block the thermal bridges, except to slam tens of thousands of euros in external insulation that the regulations of coprop forbid me to do anyway.
100mm on one side and 200mm on the other and you don't go over 14 °
there's a big leak. The camera revealed that the insert chimney, when it does not work, represents an inverted radiator from 1000 to 2000 kw! in short, an electric radiator is needed to just compensate for leaks of tpt due to the extinct insert. I made an insulating panel 40 mm thick to cover the insert when it is not working!
in severe months, I had the same problem at home (160 m2 on 2 levels, advances, heating thoroughly to arrive at a temperature of 19,5 ° etc;
I had left to change the windows etc;
Then I said to myself before slamming 8000 euros and more with the rest of the work, if I did detect where the problems came from
I brought a thermal camera (with its operator) for € 490 including tax and the guy photographed everything.
Conclusion: no need to change windows, however work on seals, thermal bridges etc. Certainly it will be impossible to block the thermal bridges, except to slam tens of thousands of euros in external insulation that the regulations of coprop forbid me to do anyway.
100mm on one side and 200mm on the other and you don't go over 14 °
there's a big leak. The camera revealed that the insert chimney, when it does not work, represents an inverted radiator from 1000 to 2000 kw! in short, an electric radiator is needed to just compensate for leaks of tpt due to the extinct insert. I made an insulating panel 40 mm thick to cover the insert when it is not working!
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Absolutely, but there it is not a vapor barrier that has this value there, but a rain barrier! (outside the wall, so ...)Christophe wrote:Ah OK thank you! But sd = 0.05 (= 5cm of equivalent air) it's weak then for a vapor barrier no ???
For a vapor retarder, the Sd value will go from 2 m (if you want a very breathable wall) to much higher values (several hundred m).
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"I am a big brute, but I rarely mistaken ..."
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The Sd value of a vapor retarder film must above all be adapted to the capacity of the outer layer to convey water vapor to the external environment, otherwise there is a risk of there being "jam" in the middle ...swift2540 wrote:[...] For lumberjack:
If I understand correctly, better a vapor retarder with weak sd in the rooms except in the bathroom where too much steam is likely to rot the woodwork, so evacuate it rather by vmc
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"I am a big brute, but I rarely mistaken ..."
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