Low cost RT2020 new house project

[Obamot]

Hmmm. I bought an almost new house (divorce. Stroke of luck for us), equipped with a "nuclear" heat pump (I retain the name. It throws serious), coupled with underfloor heating.

1) The noise of the outer unit is very low below 5m distance. Inaudible beyond.
2) We have already had several cold spells (night frosts too), it heats my faith very well so far
3) In all electric, it is 40 € / month.

Maybe it's a great heat pump, maybe going through underfloor heating is more efficient, in any case so far it's been going very well. I temper a little what.

Does electricity have another source than nuclear in France?

1) it all depends on the type of PAC, but I'm not going to advertise, Izentrop and you are enough.
- I totally maintain that first-price heat pumps can be very noisy. (just googling, there are lots of examples)
2) SERIOUS articles on the drop in performance of PACS are legion ... You did not say where or how the installation was connected, or what type of PAC it was? Probably an air-water considering the costs that you mention! Or the house is already very well insulated => so that's what I'm saying ...
3) Try to make an estimate to install underfloor heating to see + price of the heat pump-nuclear ... identical installation including insulation that we laugh a little ...

You are not in a situation where you have to invest, you bought the house with ... It's not the same ...
What you say, it must be concluded quickly eh ... I do not have the impression that you are from the building to the base ?!

[Rajqawee]

Hmmm. I bought an almost new house (divorce. Stroke of luck for us), equipped with a "nuclear" heat pump (I retain the name. It throws serious), coupled with underfloor heating.

1) The noise of the outer unit is very low below 5m distance. Inaudible beyond.
2) We have already had several cold spells (night frosts too), it heats my faith very well so far
3) In all electric, it is 40 € / month.

Maybe it's a great heat pump, maybe going through underfloor heating is more efficient, in any case so far it's been going very well. I temper a little what.

Does electricity have another source than nuclear in France?

1) it all depends on the type of PAC, but I'm not going to advertise, Izentrop and you are enough.
- I totally maintain that first-price heat pumps can be very noisy. (just googling, there are lots of examples)
2) SERIOUS articles on the drop in performance of PACS are legion ... You did not say where or how the installation was connected, or what type of PAC it was? Probably an air-water considering the costs that you mention! Or the house is already very well insulated => so that's what I'm saying ...
3) Try to make an estimate to install underfloor heating to see + price of the heat pump-nuclear ... identical installation including insulation that we laugh a little ...

You are not in a situation where you have to invest, you bought the house with ... It's not the same ...
What you say, it must be concluded quickly eh ... I do not have the impression that you are from the building to the base ?!

Relax Obamot! Are you too used to being attacked or what ?! Or would I have discovered a new passion for myself by converting myself into a heat pump sales representative? I did not know.

I am not at all of the building. It is indeed an air-water AND the house is well insulated (and yes, it is the sinews of war ...). What do you want, I was lucky, the people who built have put in the means ... but hey, now that it's there, I'm not going to have fun replacing it. It exists, it works, forward.

Obviously it has nothing to do with building a house and buying it already ready. But that does not prevent solutions with NUCLEAR HEAT PUMP (hey: it farts more in English eh?) Are not necessarily stupid.

[Obamot]

I am relaxed, I was responding to a specific case and you confirmed point by point that my words were correct.

If you wanted to be objective, you should have embarked on a depreciation calculation (and I advise you to do it because one fine day you will have to replace your PAC) and you would have seen that it is not that advantageous. , and you even admit that it goes hand in hand with thermal insulation. But for many households, it is either one or the other ...

Faced with a choice: to passivate a house with zero expenditure VS a heat pump, there's no photo, because hardly anyone is in your ideal configuration ...

Honestly, if I had to choose and be obliged to have a heater, I would take the mass stove (that for cases where passivating a house is very expensive or very complicated (I had only one case at the time - I not in the BAT for a long time) where the client wanted to keep the original rustic appearance of an old farmhouse, with walls 70cm thick ...)

(I note in passing that the costs of electricity are increasing and once they retire, many can no longer afford heating ...) I admit that 40 € / month is not expensive, but if you have to change a heat pump with the retirement money, that's not going to laugh ... And I am against heat pumps in principle, because heating with electricity is a heresy and above all we must stop encouraging consumption ( and therefore recourse to nuclear power), which Izentrop seeks to do.

I admit that in some cases a CAP can be justified, but they are rare and I do not encourage it.

[GuyGadeboisTheBack]

A heat pump is "very good", but in the event of a power cut ... Tintin!

[humus]

the houses of the 80s, with all nuclear heating have 10 cm of insulation in the walls.
For the RT2012 still in force, I expected more than 10 cm of insulation in the walls to achieve the feat of being BBC.
( Low energy building)

Well no, the trick of builders to divide energy consumption by 3 is to make a house from the 80s ... and add a heat pump to it.
It is the Cop of the CAP which makes the energy gain.
The same result could have been achieved without heat pump (with convectors), by tripling the thickness of the insulation.

Indeed, a heat pump wears out and is doomed to die more or less quickly, which entails a significant replacement cost, as for the insulation, if it is done well, it lasts.
The first straw house in France is around 100 years old.

There is every interest in isolating as much as possible and avoiding sophisticated machinery.

[izentrop]

A heat pump is "very good", but in the event of a power cut ... Tintin!

If you plan to have the spare tire, no worries.
The wood stove as an emergency heating and gas bottle for the kitchen and you can sleep peacefully

It is the Cop of the CAP which makes the energy gain.
The same result could have been achieved without a heat pump, by tripling the thickness of the insulation.

A heat pump without good insulation is not a good operation.

[humus]

To answer my fear concerning the overheating of a MOB this site confirms what the manufacturer told me this morning

3. Overheating
The interior overheating of a home occurs when the interior temperature rises due to the particularly strong heat outside. The prejudice in the matter is that a timber frame construction is sensitive to this rise in temperature because the walls of such a frame are light and cannot store heat.

If we provide sun screens, roller shutters or roof overhangs, possibly combined with a judicious choice in terms of glazing, this argument no longer holds. Thanks to the insulation inside the wall, the internal heating is even slowed down.

In a timber frame construction, only the air in the home is heated. This heat is automatically dissipated through the ventilation system or by manually opening the windows. As wood does not store heat, your home will stay cool overnight. In a traditional home, on the other hand, the heat stored in the walls will be released.

In winter, the lighter structure of the wood is also a real advantage. On cold winter days, in such a home, we will quickly obtain a pleasant interior temperature, as soon as the sun rises and without having to heat. When you turn on the heating, you will also reach a pleasant interior temperature more quickly than in a traditional home. In a few minutes, your living room, your bathroom or your office will therefore reach the desired temperature.

https://sibomat.be/fr/construction-a-os ... ture-bois/

a review here:

Reviews of timber frame houses
Wooden frame houses are therefore rather ecological and comfortable constructions in winter, the cost of which is comparable to masonry houses. However, it will be necessary to pay attention to summer comfort which cannot be ensured by the too low inertia of the house. We will therefore ensure to set up a concrete slab, sun protection, roller shutters, through ventilation, and if possible wooded land with deciduous vegetation.

https://conseils-thermiques.org/contenu ... bois.php#2

[jean.caissepas]

the houses of the 80s, with all nuclear heating have 10 cm of insulation in the walls.
For the RT2012 still in force, I expected more than 10 cm of insulation in the walls to achieve the feat of being BBC.
( Low energy building)

Well no, the trick of builders to divide energy consumption by 3 is to make a house from the 80s ... and add a heat pump to it.
...

I don't agree with the insulation, because I have an RT2012 house with 14cm of insulation on the wall and 45-50cm under the roof.

I asked them how the RT2012 had divided by 3 the energy consumption compared to the RT2005.
The sales representative explained to me that the air inlets had been reduced by the same order (3x less incoming air) ...
Hello breathing indoor pollution!

Personally, I opted for a double flow CMV:
- because of this fact (we keep the air volume RT2005),
- to better distribute the hot air from my pellet stove throughout the house on the ground floor (without ever turning on the toasters in the bedrooms),
- to have a house that is neither too humid nor too dry (re-inject the outgoing humidity into the incoming air if too dry)
- to have a quiet and mosquito-free house (no air entry to the windows, filter on the main air inlet), with less incoming dust (F7 filter)
- to save energy (240 € of pellets / 109 m2 for the whole season in the northern pre-Alps)

Maybe not all builders are as correct as mine ...

[humus]

I don't agree with the insulation, because I have an RT2012 house with 14cm of insulation on the wall and 45-50cm under the roof.

Thanks for your return.
Yes, I was only talking about the walls.
Since it is energy consumption that is targeted, the thickener of the insulation depends on the climate of the region.

here, obviously it is 10cm in the walls in 1980 for an electric house and 10cm in 2020

still a single flow CMV but hygro, whereas I expected a double flow CMV.
Clearly, here, the gain is made thanks to the CAP.
No one told me but I understood it because everything else in the house is "standard" compared to before RT2012.
Well, there is a little more insulation under the roof and the hygro CMV and glazing which has made progress since 1980 but all of this can easily be added to a house from 1980.
Except that the 1980 electric house does not have a heated floor, so at best we can put an air / air heat pump.

[humus]

- to have a quiet and mosquito-free house (no air entry to the windows, filter on the main air inlet), with less incoming dust (F7 filter)

I do not know.
A filter is standard on a double flow CMV or has it been added on request?
Can you tell me more about this kind of filter, frequency of filter renewal, where can we find the spare?