Swift
You forget that the circulator also heats the house with its consumed electricity!
Heat well or just heat ...
Re: Heat well or just heat ...
Let's try to be as specific as possible:
House from the 40s with extension from the 70s. Interior insulation .. placo? will know ... insulation roofing with tar paper.
Chaf .. & Mor .. G23e boiler from 1999 in the basement, and all the heating circuit completely re-caulked, 7 radiators downstairs and 5 on the first floor, with almost all thermostatic heads (except in the entrance).
The aquastat is generally on 50% I do not have a suitable thermometer yet. The traffic does not seem to me to be at the top because my return temperature is much lower than the arrival. My "heating engineer" claims that my circuit is muddy but has never succeeded in proving it to me, all the water samples taken on the radiators are without deposits, he will therefore be seen with his estimate at 500 € while waiting for i find a more competent guy.
There is a room thermostat in the entrance to control all of this. Having 2 butts frozen at home, since yesterday evening it is again on 19 ° C in the presence and 17 ° C in the absence and at night. Until then it was 18 ° C in the presence and it took two hours at home to reach its temperature in the morning. Except surprise this morning in less than an hour the high temperature was reached in a single hour of heating despite the 2 ° c ext of this night ... In periods of stable temperature I estimate that the boiler triggers every quarter of hour roughly, in heating period it is twice more often. I should invest in a recording thermometer but the price puts me off ...
My goal is to optimize my energy consumption to make some savings and reinvest them for new optimizations and so on ...
House from the 40s with extension from the 70s. Interior insulation .. placo? will know ... insulation roofing with tar paper.
Chaf .. & Mor .. G23e boiler from 1999 in the basement, and all the heating circuit completely re-caulked, 7 radiators downstairs and 5 on the first floor, with almost all thermostatic heads (except in the entrance).
The aquastat is generally on 50% I do not have a suitable thermometer yet. The traffic does not seem to me to be at the top because my return temperature is much lower than the arrival. My "heating engineer" claims that my circuit is muddy but has never succeeded in proving it to me, all the water samples taken on the radiators are without deposits, he will therefore be seen with his estimate at 500 € while waiting for i find a more competent guy.
There is a room thermostat in the entrance to control all of this. Having 2 butts frozen at home, since yesterday evening it is again on 19 ° C in the presence and 17 ° C in the absence and at night. Until then it was 18 ° C in the presence and it took two hours at home to reach its temperature in the morning. Except surprise this morning in less than an hour the high temperature was reached in a single hour of heating despite the 2 ° c ext of this night ... In periods of stable temperature I estimate that the boiler triggers every quarter of hour roughly, in heating period it is twice more often. I should invest in a recording thermometer but the price puts me off ...
My goal is to optimize my energy consumption to make some savings and reinvest them for new optimizations and so on ...
0 x
So not insulated house ==> big losses ...
This is where we will have to act = isolation.
The principle of heating is simple:
a boiler produces heat and the radiators send this heat into the rooms; the rest is regulation.
But for how long does it go on?
If it is for 5 minutes, the boiler follows, the problem is elsewhere (circulators, pipes or radiators).
If the boiler is not powerful enough, it will operate on restart for 1 hour or more without stopping and the radiators will heat slowly (temperature rise very slow).
Did you try to make the boiler aquastat stronger? Let's say 80% instead of 50%; What is going on?
You should know one thing:
At the time, a 1000w radiator was calculated as 90/70 = 90 ° inlet temp and 70 ° outlet temp (now it's 75/65). If you feed it with water at 50 ° , it can only produce 500W (with a ladle) ==> Given the temperature losses in the middle of winter, it cannot quickly give back enough heat, the losses are too great.
First try this, then we'll see for the rest.
This is where we will have to act = isolation.
The principle of heating is simple:
a boiler produces heat and the radiators send this heat into the rooms; the rest is regulation.
In times of stable temperature I estimate that the boiler triggers roughly every quarter of an hour, in times of heating it is twice as often.
But for how long does it go on?
If it is for 5 minutes, the boiler follows, the problem is elsewhere (circulators, pipes or radiators).
If the boiler is not powerful enough, it will operate on restart for 1 hour or more without stopping and the radiators will heat slowly (temperature rise very slow).
Did you try to make the boiler aquastat stronger? Let's say 80% instead of 50%; What is going on?
You should know one thing:
At the time, a 1000w radiator was calculated as 90/70 = 90 ° inlet temp and 70 ° outlet temp (now it's 75/65). If you feed it with water at 50 ° , it can only produce 500W (with a ladle) ==> Given the temperature losses in the middle of winter, it cannot quickly give back enough heat, the losses are too great.
First try this, then we'll see for the rest.
0 x
Sometimes it is better to stop, reflect, and ask the right questions ...
swift2540 wrote:So not insulated house ==> big losses ...
This is where we will have to act = isolation.
I agree 100%, but everything being "dressed", including the attic, isolating means undressing, isolating, re-dressing = heavy work ...
So I try the simple and inexpensive things first ...
Knowing that I would like to isolate from the outside, but there big big budget :-(
it operates 1/3 to 1/2 of the time during the heating period, and 3 to 4 minutes during the stable period.But for how long does it go on?
If it is for 5 minutes, the boiler follows, the problem is elsewhere (circulators, pipes or radiators).
Did you try to make the boiler aquastat stronger? Let's say 80% instead of 50%; What is going on?
no I did not try because until then I thought aquastat low = economy but I am beginning to understand that no ...
I really need to find a laser thermometer ...
0 x
If the attic is unoccupied, a few rolls of ldv or bags of cellulose are not very expensive. When you go out and it's cold, you wear a hat, right?
Look at the wires on the insulation, you will quickly understand.
Look no further for the boiler, amha that's the problem.
Yes, a boiler operating at low temperatures is more economical (roughly 10 ° more for the boiler = 10 ° more for the fumes), but economy vs comfort must be reconciled.
Say otherwise, how much are you willing to pay for comfort?
For comfort, it's simple; rapid rise in temperature, pleasant and stable temp during heating periods.
For the economy, it is the lowest possible boiler (but without affecting comfort) and insulation of the pipes in the cellar.
True insulation (translate correct and not expensive).
If you leave 1cm of hole per meter (crack or bad joint) it's a bit like leaving a velux window of 1m² wide open in a very well insulated roof of 100m² ... Idiot
When this is correct, we can then discuss regulation / optimization.
Look at the wires on the insulation, you will quickly understand.
it operates 1/3 to 1/2 of the time during the heating period, and 3 to 4 minutes during the stable period.
Look no further for the boiler, amha that's the problem.
Yes, a boiler operating at low temperatures is more economical (roughly 10 ° more for the boiler = 10 ° more for the fumes), but economy vs comfort must be reconciled.
Say otherwise, how much are you willing to pay for comfort?
For comfort, it's simple; rapid rise in temperature, pleasant and stable temp during heating periods.
For the economy, it is the lowest possible boiler (but without affecting comfort) and insulation of the pipes in the cellar.
True insulation (translate correct and not expensive).
If you leave 1cm of hole per meter (crack or bad joint) it's a bit like leaving a velux window of 1m² wide open in a very well insulated roof of 100m² ... Idiot
When this is correct, we can then discuss regulation / optimization.
0 x
Sometimes it is better to stop, reflect, and ask the right questions ...
For the "pipes" thermometer you can place one like this one at the boiler outlet
http://www.eneove.com/Eneove/Accessoires-chauffage-bois/Thermometre-a-contact-bimetallique.html
We are not within 1 ° ...
http://www.eneove.com/Eneove/Accessoires-chauffage-bois/Thermometre-a-contact-bimetallique.html
We are not within 1 ° ...
0 x
Sometimes it is better to stop, reflect, and ask the right questions ...
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