Bubul wrote:The temperature of the air entering the bubbler must be at the temperature of the water (90 °) or warmer?
For the moment I have made an air heating system with a copper coil placed in the water of the bubbler. I don't know if it's better than heating the air with a coil around the exhaust pipe ...
Keep it simple, focus on the reactor, do a neat job so you don't have to go back (the rest around is hardware that you can change improve without too much work, but that's where the good performance of the system depends .
Start by simply entering the air, taken directly under the hood, which is warmer than the ambient air
There will always be time to capture the air with a sheet metal around the exhaust pipe, later (although you will see that this does not improve the performance of the system much.)
Do not expect to have hot water at 90C with an LDR / water exchanger, this will be around 60 to 70 c (unless you have an exchanger with circulator, and again you will stay with a 10C less than the LDR.
Heating the intake air in summer? not necessary the passage in the water of the bubbler is sufficient.
the bubbler systematically cools the water in the tank (evaporation of the water) and the exchanger provides the missing heat.
the STEAM that passes through the reactor and into the engine, does not bring much (unless it undergoes a depression or cooling with the ambient air, before entering the reactor which transforms it into (cloud) or it looks like to the nebulizer product.
(this is why from one assembly to another notes as much difference in the consumption of water for similar yields, it is difficult to measure what proportion of vapor and droplets which pass into the system. )
I have an air heating system on my Chevrolet Lumina bubbler system. I use it only in winter in summer. I take ambient air directly under the hood.
On the 300D diesel in summer the air temperature at the outlet of the sprayer is around 30c to 35c, despite the fact that I spray warm water.
Andre