Pantone Toyota Lite ace of diesel 1994

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
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Bubul
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Pantone Toyota Lite ace of diesel 1994




by Bubul » 17/05/11, 15:18

Hello,

I have plans to mount a Pantone system on my toyota lite ice diesel.

I would go on a steel construction. Ece a problem?

bubbler:
- I saw that many of you are beginning to adopt the GVI instead of the bubbler. Yet I prefer that to the bubbler proven.
- I want to heat the water bubbler with the cooling system by transplanting me on the heating radiator (before the valve, see picture).
- The bubbler contiendrais 0,5 L of water (total capacity 1L), with a constant regulated by a small water pump.
Image

Reactor:
just after the collector I have a catalytic converter 3 ways, I thought my weld in the reactor (in fact there is anything in a catalytic converter?), possible ece?
Image
Image

Venturi:
Can it be made of plastic?
Image
Image

Voila, not ésitez advise me because I have never before touched a car (set firewall change a wheel). I am a handyman but my experience in motor mechanics is not very great. (I can repair a lawnmower or moped its not going away : Mrgreen: )
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Re: Pantone on toyota lite ice diesel 1994




by Flytox » 17/05/11, 18:10

Bubul Hello, welcome to the club

Bubul wrote:Hello,

I have plans to mount a Pantone system on my toyota lite ice diesel.

I would go on a steel construction. Ece a problem?



For a prototype that we will change, reunite several times, it's not a big problem. By cons when you have found something that works well, the rust will start to annoy you and make you problems with time (holes, blockages etc ....)

- I saw that many of you are beginning to adopt the GVI instead of the bubbler. Yet I prefer that to the bubbler proven.
- I want to heat the water bubbler with the cooling system by transplanting me on the heating radiator (before the valve, see picture).
- The bubbler contiendrais 0,5 L of water (total capacity 1L), with a constant regulated by a small water pump).


When we place under the hood, it's a good solution.

Reactor:
just after the collector I have a catalytic converter 3 ways, I thought my weld in the reactor (in fact there is anything in a catalytic converter?), possible ece?


Inside you have a piece of honeycomb ceramic covered with a few fractions of "precious" metals. there is every chance that there is no room : Cry: The reactor should be castrated further upstream to the collector.

Venturi:
Can it be made of plastic?


The temperature under the hood is normally compatible with plastic (<100 ° in the worst case), this can be a good solution.
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Bubul
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by Bubul » 17/05/11, 18:57

Flytox thank you for your answers.

As the catalytic converter will make me lose too much heat (at least I think) I must not plug in afterwards. I wonder if it would not be a good idea to connect the reactor in "bypass" around the catalytic converter?
again I think a lot of spend gas in the reactor because the catalytic converter brakes the gas.

view the photo:
Image
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by alaniesse » 17/05/11, 19:13

beak venturi worth it.
Piper has 45 °
the brake venturi, not at all. if you restrict the passage of air, you will have more potato to the acceleration, the vehicle will become winded and you'll consume in times.
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by Bubul » 17/05/11, 19:32

alaniesse wrote:beak venturi worth it.
Piper has 45 °
the brake venturi, not at all. if you restrict the passage of air, you will have more potato to the acceleration, the vehicle will become winded and you'll consume in times.


Thank you for the reply but I heuuu not understand, you can clear me stp ?:

You talking about the elbow to the reactor or to the venturi air intake?

I completely dropped on this one the ...
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by Flytox » 17/05/11, 22:19

The bypass around the catalytic converter, why not. There may be still a problem for the catalyst to be effective, it must be very hot, otherwise nothing catalysis, clogs and destroys ... and it is not given as part .. .. :frown: :| : Mrgreen:
I think the best solution is as close to the manifold.
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by Flytox » 17/05/11, 22:27

alaniesse wrote:the brake venturi, not at all. if you restrict the passage of air, you will have more potato to the acceleration, the vehicle will become winded and you'll consume in times.


As André says, you must not go below the diameter of an inlet valve for the throttling of the venturi. For my part I tried on my R19. Except when you open large, you do not make the difference in "economical" use for the potato.
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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Bubul
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by Bubul » 17/05/11, 23:52

Ok, so the diameter at the minimum section of the venturi in the inlet, should be at least equal to that of the intake valve.

I will remove the cover under the car to access the exhaust pipe because now I struggle to even the exhaust line of the collector to the catalytic converter. But I think I found a good location for the reactor.

question:
- If the bubbler is 1 meter of reactor and its height will 50cm or her problem?
- What type of hose I can take to connect the cooling circuit and the bubbler? because the temperature can rise to 100 °? I m a hot water cylinder thermostat on the bubbler to regulate T = 85 °

Thank you for all your answers Image
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Bubul
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bubbler




by Bubul » 20/05/11, 01:56

At the moment I make the bubbler (with a small empty car extinguisher)

- Double bottom for heating the coolant
- Air heating before it enters the bubbler
- Regulatory T ° water bubbler
- Automatic filling of the water tank through a secondary + water pump.
- Safety valve if there is a T ° control problem and the pressure rises too.

I hesitate to install a valve before entering the reactor, which would be opened if the temp of the water bubbler exceeds 75 ° (all done with a PDO and a CTN).
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by Christophe » 20/05/11, 02:21

Why not put the reactor IN the catalytic converter?

A hot ca goes well in a T ° cata pot it seems ... (600-700 ° C right?)
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