GOLF 3 1,9D: Water doping

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
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zac
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by zac » 03/06/07, 18:06

there is more than erasing the blue : Lol: : Lol: : Lol:

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This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 03/06/07, 19:10

To remove the blue zone I increased the OFF time of the pump.
3sec ON; 10sec OFF I also greatly increased the water flow.
I left the safety temperature at 70 ° C with a Differential of 2 ° C.
It gives this:
Image

I agree that the system is very complex to be able to operate with a water pump and in complete safety.
What is practical is that you do not need to open the hood to modify the settings.

Image
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zac
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by zac » 03/06/07, 20:41

it's more pantone, it's art

well done peter : Mrgreen: : Mrgreen: : Mrgreen:

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Said the zebra, freeman (endangered breed)

This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 04/06/07, 06:56

Thank you Zac, it's nice : Cheesy:
One thing that is not good about this system is the clogging needle.
Even adding vinegar to the water does not solve the problem 100%.
I will have to find another way to make myself a GV without having to open the exhaust and without having to weld it on the wall of the exhaust.
I still don't know how I'm going to do it.
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zac
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by zac » 04/06/07, 08:20

PITMIX wrote:I will have to find another way to make myself a GV without having to open the exhaust and without having to weld it on the wall of the exhaust.
I still don't know how I'm going to do it.


Hello

put it in an elbow that protrudes and with a double wall, you will have more than fix it with a spring.

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Said the zebra, freeman (endangered breed)

This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
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RolCopter
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by RolCopter » 04/06/07, 19:07

Bonjour à tous

Pitmix you do not use the regulator to control your water? and which probe do you have on the regulator: PTC, NTC or PT100?
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Less consumption is good
Less pollution is already a great result
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 04/06/07, 23:27

Hello
I use a PTC because the regulator only accepts that.
I can not use it for regulation because it only goes up to 99 ° C in addition it reacts too slowly.
It's recovery material ...
If I had the appropriate knowledge in electronics, I would make myself a thermostat with a thermocouple probe.
These are the best probes I have ever seen.
Precision, price, thermal resistance, speed of acquisition ...
I already have a thermostat with thermocouple and all the miniature and hyper-efficient pump regulation system on the R5. We see the photos on my site.

The only thing missing is the temperature display.
I intend to recover it to install it on the Golf.
I will find the explanatory doc to show you what it is.
But I can't figure out if the simple GV isn't worth as good as all that.
It's such a simple system ...
Finally I must say that the electronics do not pose any problem of reliability until now.
The only problem is the clogged water injection needle.
With the GV no problem of this kind, but a priori one can meet problems of float.

I wonder if by peeing in the water tank I will not avoid the problem of blocked needle? : Cheesy:
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by Other » 05/06/07, 03:39

Hello
One thing that is not good about this system is the clogging needle.
Even adding vinegar to the water does not solve the problem 100%.


I had this problem on the small jet of the carburetor now it is rather rare

-avoid passing hot water
- place a small transparent plastic filter on the water line
- a too long nozzle tends to clog
- do not leave the water in the tank for 2 weeks to replace it
the one that even stagnates from the tap ended up making microalgae with the heat under the hood

better a bigger hole with less pressure anyway the needle makes a liquid jet.

Whatever the methods used float needle requires minimal maintenance
the bird trough or to feed the flat plants is simpler.

I will stay on the simple carburetor system which (self-regulates) with the RPMs a carburetor which spits water droplet in a tube in the exhaust, no level to control (flat tank slightly below the level of the carburetor).

Andre
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 05/06/07, 06:24

hi Andrew
Indeed the small homemade fuel is not that bad.
It is very simple and the maintenance is very easy.
I think Zac's idea of ​​using a scooter tap is very good. This prevents the tank from emptying when stopped.
I never had this problem on the R5 but it is better to take all the precautions.
Otherwise for the rest I do like you.
I'm thinking of taking a bigger needle.
In the end, several solutions are available to me and I have the impression that they are all worth in terms of efficiency in keeping the reactor at suitable operating temperatures.
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Flytox
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by Flytox » 05/06/07, 19:29

Hello André

Andre wrote:- place a small transparent plastic filter on the water line
- a too long nozzle tends to clog
- do not leave the water in the tank for 2 weeks to replace it
the one that even stagnates from the tap ended up making microalgae with the heat under the hood


My plastic water tank had the same algae or bacteria problems. (sticky water)

Currently I am trying to counter the blow with a copper wire that dips in the tank from top to bottom. At the water / air interface, whatever the water level, it will create a little verdigris which I hope will act as a biocide.

For now it works (1 month of retreat is not much to draw conclusions). Hoping that it is not the verdigris that will clog the fine plastic filter at the bottom of the tank .....: Mrgreen:

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