wood stove pellets + VMC: conflicts and optimization?

[dedeleco]

my pellet stove has a blower but that is not enough to seriously heat the rooms,

a solution would be to recover part of this hot air blown in air ducts with a second circulator which go to the rooms, as I have on my inserts from my different houses, with my free wood !!

To read you, given the low power of your stove, one wonders in which region you are, what is your electricity consumption and if by chance you are not heated by the party walls with the well-heated neighboring houses, like this is often the case for townhouses full of floors ????

[foufbibi]

no the stove heats very well but you have to imagine the main room of 60 M2 with a mezza above ... suddenly it heats this room well, bcp the mezza and not much the stairs then the room opposite which are when mm to 5 -6m away ....

Now put a single flow vmc to recover the heat from the mezza to put in the rooms, that's exactly what I want to do .... The trick is to know how to do the best to combine with a vmc that takes out the stale air + fresh starter

I ask myself: if I make, with my large pipe which crosses the house, an air inlet ABOVE the stove (because I already have the pipes and the air vents which allow me to do that), air that I can put on a low efficiency double flow vmc (therefore not expensive, just not to lose everything) which also leaves me the stale air of the house and in duplicate a single flow vmc on the mezza which swings in the rooms?

What do you think ...

[dedeleco]

A VMC which exits the air outside has nothing to do with the circulation of hot air inside by circulator on an exchanger on stove or insert and distribution ducts in the rooms !!
Separate the two functions well !!! Very different flow rates.
Otherwise problems.
The combustion air supply and the chimney must not be disturbed or even reversed by the VMC.
Risk of death from CO !!
Put on a CO detector for your life !!!!

Personally I remove or stop the unnecessary CMV with wood heating.

If you have moisture look for the source (s) of excess moisture before ventilating absurdly with the VMC !!!!

[foufbibi]

useless with wood heating when it allows you to fully heat the house, this is not my case, we can say that roughly my stove heats half of the house ....

This morning I called prosynergie, I came across a nice guy, I explained my problem to him and he seems to have understood the trick well, mm if without diagram and by phone it is not obvious.

At the beginning he told me to put a vmc dopuble flow old generation so as not to change all my existing pipes and to add a heat exchanger with aluminum pipe to swing from the mezza towards the rooms or rather the corridor of the rooms.
Finally he gave me a quote by plugging in the mezza at the outlet like the bathrooms and telling me that the hotter air that will come from the top will heat the rooms a little more, total cost of 1000 vmc with a gain by about 70%.

It seems to me quite a solution and I always have the possibility of adding the heat exchanger afterwards if that does not suit me.

For the air in the stove, he told me again what I had already been told: I must leave the air inlets of the crawl space of the fireplace open and the stove will "shoot" on it.

[dedeleco]

You are not looking for the source of humidity to remove and therefore you spend for nothing a useless VMC which puts the heat outside, before properly heating the whole house !!!

I would never do like you !!!

The nice guy is a good salesman typical of the useless !!!

[foufbibi]

No he did not hesitate to tell me that a high performance vmc was useless and had a good time on the phone, I'm looking more for explanations than prices for the moment ....

The source of the humidity "I have already said that I could not see .... not having ventilation in some room like the toilet it seems to me that it is all found right? In addition what is it who tells me that there is a "source" of this moisture linked to a leak?
As I said the house, finally the garage is 2/3 buried to see completely I imagine that this inevitably generates humidity?

Heating a house and not ventilating it must be playable according to its architecture, me it is more surface than in height, I do not want to increase my heating bill just so as not to ventilate if?

I have to adapt to my current situation: the change of stove or other system of total modification of the heating of the house are to be banned, I invested in windows and a pellet stove last year I can no longer put back 2-3000 euros in something else ... I want to make my installation as profitable as possible.

[dedeleco]

I said what I did in situations comparable to yours in the face of abnormal humidity !!!
You are free to stay in the problem with solutions that do not solve the problem of damp sources, such as garage walls and floors porous to soil moisture, common in slightly old houses, invisible pipe leaks, tile, etc .. !!
I mentioned a test with plastic sheets against the walls !!
It doesn't look like you've read let alone try !!
You are the ideal customer for attractive but scammer salespeople who only think about their end-of-month commission !!
An example that I did not do, because useless without insulation from the outside, typical of direct seller:

I invested in windows

but ideal for increasing humidity and increasing heat loss with excessive CMV.
Like you, my neighbors made this high and misleading investment and I'm kidding, because low thermal gain paid for itself in only 100 years !!
But their mind is satisfied !!
Capital last night on M6, showed examples of this type with inefficient condensing boiler, instead of isolating !!

I can no longer put 2-3000 euros in something else.

.
and your finances being empty, it would have been better to make the right choices before, instead of believing the salespeople, who only think about their bonus by telling nonsense !!
It is better to have a very developed critical mind !!!

[foufbibi]

Thank you very much for helping me, I appreciate it, but thank you also for not assaulting ...

The solution to insulating the garage from soil moisture inexpensively was what? isolate from the outside and therefore take out the 2 m of earth that I have all around ???? The plastic thing I said I would try.

When to insulate the walls from the outside, just read the first post where I explain that the whole house is in chipboard + insulation + cellular concrete, in the category "let's help the nice sales people" I really don't see the point external insulation, which costs the skin of the buttocks in addition ...

On the other hand, to change the double glazing which are 40 years old and which works with crank shutters with non-demultified movement there yes I see the interest of investing ..... The change of window also fits in the box "isolate better "

You have to realize that all the houses are not the same, it is the same for the solutions, this is why I explained all the parameters in my first post, indigestible and long to read but complete.

ps: when with the condentation boiler I had my boiler changed from my old house 2 years ago and I had precisely not taken a condentation because I know how to calculate by myself and it was not profitable to everything .... So no definitely I do not consider myself in the category of pigeons.

Having a developed critical mind I agree, you shouldn't believe everything you show on TV either ...;)

[foufbibi]

Does anyone else have an opinion on vmc?

[Philippe Schutt]

a friend had a partially buried hillside house with a humidity problem in the living room. We took shovel, pickaxe and wheelbarrow to remove the earth, about 80cm wide and indeed up to 2m high on the + large wall. 3 days of work at 2.
The problem was solved. If this is too much for you, I don't see an economically relevant solution.