Technical choice poses rampant insulation

[vegaman]

Hello,

After several days of research I discovered several techniques to isolate crawlers.

So I will list them and I would like your opinion on the best technique for laying wood wool insulation for my crawlers. Small precision: I do not isolate between rafters (presence of a bituminous screen, I need a blade of air)

1 TECHNIQUE: 2 insulation cross layers under rafters, with hangers / metal frame.
- Hanger Fixture Integra 25 cm on my rafters
- Laying of a first layer of wool 4 cm under rafters. For fixing I thought to staple / screw in the rafters.
- Cross stitching of a second layer of 18 wool socked into the lines.
- Furs fixing
- Steam brake bonding on furs
- Screwing a cleat on the furs above the steam brake (for the technical vacuum)
- Screwing the BA13 / Fermacell plates onto the cleats

Advantage:
- Light structure
- Cross-layer insulation (thermal bridge reduction)
- Economical and fast
- Possibility of using adjustable hangers

Disadvantages:
- Presence of thermal bridge with metal hangers
- R = 5.5 (I wish I had at least 7)


2 TECHNIQUE: 2 X-ray cross-layer insulation with plastic hangers (integra 2) and metal frame.
- Hanger attachment integra 2 (the largest) on my rafters
- Laying of a first layer of wool 8 cm under rafters. For fixing I thought to staple / screw in the rafters.
- Cross stitching of a second layer of 20 wool socked into the lines.
- Fixing of the vapor brake thanks to the system of the lines
- Furs fixing
- Screwing BA13 / Fermacell plates on furs

Advantage:
- Light structure
- Cross-layer insulation (thermal bridge reduction)
- Faster than 1 solution
- Thermal bridge reduction at the level of the lines
- Steam brake in contact with the insulation
- Technical vacuum present without adding cleats
- R = 7

Disadvantages:
- Difficulty piercing the wool with the lines
- Non adjustable hanger (you should know that nothing is regular at my roof)
- Price of the lines


3 TECHNIQUE: 2 insulator cross layers under chevrons, with counter chevron.
- Counter chevron 15 cm fixed on the rafters
- Laying 15cm of wool in the counter herringbone
- Again against perpendicular chevron of 15 cm
- Laying 15cm of wool in the counter herringbone
Staple of the steam brake
- Screwing a cleat
- BA13 / Fermacell plate screwing on cleat

Advantage:
- Thermal bridge almost non-existent
- Cross-layer insulation
- R = 7

Disadvantages:
- Weight added on the frame
- Difficulty of implementation
- Price of expensive wood


Here I hope I have been clear enough. If you see a technique 4 do not hesitate, otherwise make your choice.

Thank you to all those who took the time to read everything and answer.

Have a good day

[bidouille23]

Hello ,

above all to ensure the condition of its frame, and its dimensioning (if it is sometimes renovating the "frame" constructions are as what would say hazardous) ....

Then


another method with wadding;) ... and always ventilated roof (the rafters creates the blade of air, said that it is ventilated;)):

So on the existing rafters you plate panels HDP (high density wood wool) hydro or not (in your case as you have a rain cover a non hydro must be enough ... if you want the security takes hydro ... .
And you put putty (there is good mastiff without solvent siga primur) all around and junctions to make airtightness.
It will make your bottom of box of insufflation ...

you find the rafters roof and kind of one chevron out of two (according to the spacing of the rafters actually) this in order to screw through the hdp panels a new series of rafters (along the existing rafters) which will serve you to fix a board separation which will be the primary framework of your doubling frame.

you will thus obtain a bottom of box and walls of wide box to the maximum of 80 cm (I have a doubt on the maximum width).


On the boards which delimits the side of box you fix your lines which can be plastic or metal, or even a chevron (station overweight).

Personally I opt for the method with short scrap iron basic short, cheap and durable, it is fixed on wooden boards so non-conductive, and enclosed in a cocoon of dense wadding has 55kg / M3 ... so good I estimate that it is well, and at least I know that the lines hang, the plastic remains of the pastique, I tend maybe wrong to beware surtou when it comes to new product ....


you put your membrane, like http://fr.proclima.com/co/FRN/fr/intell ... od_fr.html and you do not take your head with the dew point (and you say thank you;)) but this is to read in case or concerning what the dew point and wholesale insulation I like how is it written , simple and clear ...

http://www.auxanceboiscreation.com/murs-perspirants

so let's go back to our sheep:

against batten with according to the techniques, bands of osb 9 (ep 9mm) width 45mm and cross 25 * 50 or approaching.
Personal until now I have blown with only 25 * 50 battens in against lattage it's like ... but it was not in the diaphragm intello ... but braked in transparent steamed steam which I can not remember the name anymore (vario I cross) ... so to see the resistance to the tear I have not done yet ....

when your membrane is laid you insufflate padding so 55 kg / M3

here fast calculator of volume necessary:

http://www.univercell.fr/services/calcu ... nivercell/

Well here it must be stuff you did not understand it's normal for me , do not hesitate to ask ...

[fabio.gel]

Hi Vegaman

A small photo of your carpentry would be welcome.

It's easier and more accurate to give an answer on concrete in my case

Fab

[vegaman]

Photos : https://picasaweb.google.com/114529490110320998159/Combles?authkey=Gv1sRgCP_Q453VnNnVQQ#

bidouile23 your method is very interesting and you explained it well however I do not want to use cellulose wadding, notament for the rental of the machine I can not do everything in a WE.

I was offered another solution:
1 - Put vertical rafters screwed on and between the two purlins.
2 - first layer of insulation between these new rafters
3 - Fixing metal suspension on these new rafters
4 - second layer of wool in the lines.

What do you think ?

[bidouille23]

Hello ,

first of all I would treat my frame and control with a screwdriver for example the condition of the woods that are attacked ... the capricorn is a voracious beast, much more than the woodworm, and much more common than the termite .... It there are "organic" treatments ....
and I would replace any parts too attacked ...

Regarding the choice not to opt for cotton wool it is you who see;), Density equal the final weight will be equal, except that the price of the wood wool m2 including frame is more expensive than the wadding widely, machine rental included ... but everyone sees noon at his door ...

As for the appearance of your carpentry I would tend to say that it should not be abused side overload (so do not abuse the weight you will add).

To be app on what you can add as weight, it would be wise to make a load calculation that remains very simple as you only deals with the frame.

I do not have time to find links but I trusted other users to provide;) ...

The principle in big case if it does not speak to you, it is to calculate the weight (dis charge), that there is already, more to take the climatic surcharges, and to look according to the characteristics of the piece of wood ( gasoline, section, distance between supports) and the surface it carries, the weight of over-load allowed ...


I leave you looking a bit on the web if you do not see what I'm talking about ...

see you later