Changing the windows while isolating walls

[xavierdelur]

Hello

I want to insulate my house. We’ve already done the roof, we still have walls and windows

I am facing a problem with entrepreneurs with whom I am used to working

The one who puts the windows to me tells me that during renovations he never had to deal with clients who insulate the walls at the same time as the windows
And the one who insulates me from the hallucinatory walls to hear that: for him, we change the window with a frame of 11 cm, to leave room for the insulation (placo). It makes me lose 11cm of surface in my rooms but I don't care

I trust the one who installs the windows because I have already dealt with him in the past (he made insulation with my parents), but he tells me that he cannot make me these windows because he does not The windows with the famous 11cm frame are not made, under renovation. He doesn't even know it exists. For him, everything should be broken: dismantle the frame, do masonry work, put a new window and insulate with the insulation at the height of the window. The problem is that doing masonry would cost me a lot more

What do you recommend? I thank you for your response in advance

[dirk pitt]

your window installer can only do window renovation so by just removing the leaves and leaving the frames. So effectively in this case if you insulate the walls on the interior side, you will have a return and your windows will be "embedded" on the interior side. it's not that terrible aesthetic side. Personally I made interior windowsills in oak and it's pretty.
otherwise, if you want everything to be flush, you have to actually also remove the frames and put new windows complete with reservation on the inside. It all depends on the way the windows are mounted. if they are screwed into the masonry, c is easy. if they are sealed, it is more complicated.

[I Citro]

I am studying the replacement of all my joinery (single glazed wood) in total removal.

I have a double flow VMC which requires optimal sealing of the frame.
It turns out that I had significant air leaks between the original frame and the exterior walls (assembly of the 70s joined to the cement on the exterior side and the plaster on the interior side).

Cement and plaster having shrinkage on drying air passes.
Nowadays we add (caulking) to polyurethane foam which solves this problem.

This is the reason total removal is essential in my eyes, the rest being only hacking in a hurry systematically causing a reduction in the surface of the bays ...

Currently, my "insulation" is composed of a plasterboard brick lining of 4 mounted on an air space. So I have a typed about ten centimeters.

I will remove these interior linings and redo them in more insulation and airtight after installing the joinery.

I plan to install carpentry blocks with integrated roller shutter and interior boxes for an aesthetic rendering of this kind:


Yesterday a dubbing professional came and informed me that to be eligible for state aid, the dubbing insulation had to be with an R3.7. The professional cannot commit to the existing, only on what he will achieve.

Consequently, the thickness of the dubbing which it will carry out may not be less than 15cm

I will therefore lose a few m² of living space ...

It remains for me to choose the insulating and facing material as well as the method of implementation (on rails or on studs).

I refuse glass wool, rock wool. The polystyrene is strongly proposed to me ... Do you have better in mind.

For the interior facing, I am systematically offered the plasterboard but I am advised against the BA10 (too thin and fragile) professionals preferring the BA13.

I will search if I find other affordable alternatives.

[bidouille23]

Hello ,

the dormant mounted in the fashion of the 70s it is indeed m ... of, scuzer but let's call a spade a spade ..


A window renovation on original gilding in a place outside the home seems good to me;) ...

Now when the frames are mounted there are some cool things called cmpri-band, these are seals which expand with the humidity of the air, I let you look at what it is all about for yourself; ) ...

I also advise you the change of window frames, or in the case of a good well-preserved wooden window, disassembly and reassembly in accordance with good practice is also possible followed by a renovation of casement ...

In terms of isolation and eligibility for aid, yes, but which ones? ... I am of the opinion that the change of frame gives the right to aid alone, and should not be included in a bunch of work ... Get closer to the hhana and an energy info point in your city you will have the real conditions for granting aid ...


Otherwise for the dubbing, everything is possible not just the plaster. In another more expensive genre but with a lot of other advantages (like that of not needing an undercoat of printing and less work on the bands), the fermacell is very efficient and very very robust ...

Ba 10 is soup ...

As for insulation, it all depends on your budget ...

Personal in simple versio, semi rigid wood wool panels, between 40 and 55 kg / m3 you will suddenly have a density that will bring a phase shift in heat transmission (something that is almost nonexistent with rock wool or glass without talked about the health benefits with wood wool) ...

By cons what ABSOLUTELY must be respected, it is the implementation in the best way, a vapor barrier or vapor barrier (depending on whether you have breathable walls or not if agglo it is vapor barrier). ... you have a high output double flow vmc, which therefore imposes to use your machine to the maximum of its capacity, air control so to speak flawless ...

equivalent to a BBC house if you want your vmc to work around 90% .... (I am in renovation precisely, and I chose not to ask heating;), just a double stream zender at 93% efficiency, I need to take care of my air control at the top ...) otherwise the investment in a high efficiency double flow is a waste because it will turn on a yield of around 70% or less ...


finally if you opt for a foam type insulation, or polystyrene (you will have no phase shift), but you can use foam with a very low lambda coefficient, so that you will not need 15 cm to exceed the R = 3.7 (R = e / lambda if you take e = 0.15 m and r = 3.7 lambda = .15 / 3.7 = 0.04, certainly foam on a lambda announced equivalent to that of dry air stagnant and immobile ...)

The installation system is annexed to it I would say see secondary, even if I prefer the uprights and wooden sole which avoids thermal bridges ....;) ... it is not conductive wood unlike scrap. ..

Installation of wood upright between upright you come to embed wood wool panels tightly pressed against the uprights, then depending on whether you have a vapor barrier or vapor barrier, you put it down (if vapor barrier because breathable wall, then doing good tight wood wool provided sufficient air control (I saw houses passed the vacuum test without steam brake).

And it is necessary to connect the vapor barrier everywhere, floor to ceiling frame etc. to force the air passed through the vmc ...

[Brisay]

I think you should learn about climamur insulating bricks which are a quality material and particularly interesting. I completely renovated an outbuilding which was an old barn and I looked for the best possible insulation. I ended up deciding on this brick and I don't regret it. The insulation is perfect and moreover it is a very good value for money product.