Problem solenoid oil burner

And if they were repairing rather than throwing and change? Rediscover the pleasure of the repairs yourself. How to diagnose a problem or find spare parts? Repair itself is way to save money generally!
aerialcastor
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by aerialcastor » 12/12/10, 19:12

Connect one phase to the 3 terminal for the motor and 4 to the solenoid valve. Neutral to the 2 terminal.


Perfect thank you. I was not too sure about reading the grafcet correctly.

Besides, I do not understand why there is 2 solenoid valve to draw while there is only one on the burner. Maybe the case set for several type of burner.

And what is the meaning of the symbols surrounded? It looks like a delay but not on

Image
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aerialcastor
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by aerialcastor » 12/12/10, 20:02

Connect one phase to the 3 terminal for the motor and 4 to the solenoid valve. Neutral to the 2 terminal.


The test worked.
As long as the solenoid valve is not powered, the pressure does not rise and stagnates at 3bar.
As soon as I feed the pressure goes up but is very unstable the needle of the mano only goes up / down very quickly to the point that the needle is hardly visible.

That would be the relay that fairs.
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by aerialcastor » 12/12/10, 20:27

Finally, the pressure is about stable at 10.5 / 11bar. I do not know if it was me who made a bad contact or a seed boot.

In any case a nice step has been taken.
More than understand how the relay works and repair it.
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AXEAU
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by AXEAU » 13/12/10, 13:00

Hello Beaver

To try the cell and the relay you can place a portable lamp in the home connected in 4 and 2 on the relay to deceive the cell.
You feed the relay in 2 and 1 and you control with a multimeter in 2 and 3. Do not forget to connect the cell in 11 and 12.
The sequence will unfold and if it is ok the food will be maintained.
In this case it is the combustion that is bad.
If she does not keep up then try a new cell or have a relay.

a + jlg
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by aerialcastor » 13/12/10, 14:22

I see what you mean.
I will try but I'm almost certain that the relay does not give the opening order of the solenoid valve that's why I did not have fuel outlet nozzle.
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by aerialcastor » 13/12/10, 15:56

I did the manipulation. I work outside the home, and probe and illuminate permanently.
And nothing happens: no voltage between 2 and 3 (motor) nor between 4 and 2 (solenoid valve).

A weird thing is that the lupiote of the reset button does not light up.
I feel that the relay is dead complement. Yet it is clean, apart from a few black contacts.
I must admit that I do not understand how it works, we do not see much.
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Macro
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by Macro » 13/12/10, 16:20

As long as you are out of focus you remove your case you prepare shuntes. You feed the engine it must cycle the fuel between and back, then you feed the electrodes, then EV.Ca must light ..Su you get there is the case ...
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by aerialcastor » 13/12/10, 16:29

That's what I planned to do. I already connect the engine and EV and it squirts.


Then I put the relay on the box and he smokes so I think there is more to look.


but I go when doing the big-fat method. It would be a shame not to be able to set the house on fire since the time I try :D :D
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by aerialcastor » 15/12/10, 15:13

I finally found the blackout
Prepare to laugh
: Arrowd: : Arrowd: : Arrowd: : Arrowd:









: Arrowd: : Arrowd: : Arrowd: : Arrowd:













: Arrowd: : Arrowd: : Arrowd: : Arrowd:









It was a false contact on the solenoid outlet of the relay box ...
At least it did not cost expensive in spare parts.
And fortunately I do not charge me the manpower because it would have been bankruptcy.
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by Obamot » 15/12/10, 15:29

Nothing that makes you laugh, rather happy for you. 8) Congratulations for finding! Image
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