Shimming shifting / Subaru Justy [RESOLVED]

And if they were repairing rather than throwing and change? Rediscover the pleasure of the repairs yourself. How to diagnose a problem or find spare parts? Repair itself is way to save money generally!
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AXEAU
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by AXEAU » 01/04/10, 18:17

I agree with you, I wanted to keep it simple enough not to confuse our friend.

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by Obamot » 01/04/10, 20:04

Hi everybody!

Le "program" today has not advanced much. I was able to access and open the pump door. By starting to dismantle the fuel circulation pipe, this caused the small piece of metal pipeline to move in the shape of an arc of a circle and integral with the cover (by electrical welding?) To go beyond would have inevitably led to a critical deformation then to a rupture of the part located where the greatest effort is the joint.

Not wanting to force, I must imperatively make a small bracket fixed with nuts on the block itself, to protect this conduit with fixing lugs (in the manner of the electric cable clamp that is found in sockets ) and whose role will be to support all torsional and tensile stresses.

In the meantime and to feed this brilliant exchange on the technique of the processes (of the trouble to follow with my little neuron, already at its nominal output Image ), here is an electrical diagram of this vehicle. I specify that this is not the original diagram but that intended to mount the injection controller "Megasquirt" ...>. On the other hand, the main parts of the MPFI engine obviously do not change even if unfortunately the "logic" of the system is missing here - but you will surely be able to ignore it. :? :

(here in "non-regulatory size bed sheet size") : Cheesy: - >>> Image

Here in "hosted format" —vvv

Image

NB: This calculator ("Megasquirt") allows the adjustment and the monitoring of all the parameters of the injection using a PC or a visualization unit which allows to change parameters running engine (alas I do not have it, but it is undoubtedly also an excellent educational tool!).

As you will have surely noticed there is no fuel pressure regulator with electric probe. Doesn't mean it works ... : Mrgreen:
Image
In the meantime, Happy Easter!
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Alain G
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Re: shim at shift




by Alain G » 02/04/10, 14:38

citro wrote:
Alain G wrote:Hi citro!
It depends on the brand of car and the year, I forgot to mention that it was so for the year of the Justy which had an injection copied on the Chrysler of the time which was ahead of most manufacturers with regard to multi-point injection.
:? Oops, I forgot to say that it was on a 1994 saffron ... :?
It was equipped with a simultaneous RENIX multipoint injection commanding 2.5 Ohm impedance injectors.
Simultaneous because the 4 injectors were controlled at the same time (mounted in parallel).

Currently, the majority of injections are sequential, even sequential phased, that is to say that each injector opens in turn and at the moment when the intake valve opens. The standard impedance is 14.5 Ohms.
Image



Hi citro!

4 injectors which injects at the same time !!!

In 1984 Chrysler had a 2.2 liter turbo with sequential multi-point electronic injection and I owned a 1985 Laser and a 1986 Daytona, my father had a 1984 on a Chrysler Lancer (Not Mitsubitshi).

The injector sequence was controlled by the flywheel and the start sequence by the Cam Sensor.
The injectors were manufactured in Bosch bar!

:D
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by Obamot » 04/04/10, 20:49

Yesterday, I made a small stirrup so as not to shoot the fuel outlet spout. And today I emptied the tank and dismantled everything:
- Gas pump;
- Fuel filter (already changed, but I wanted to check the condition of the filter after I emptied the fuel ...).

First observation, the tank and the pump looked relatively good, very little corrosion. On the other hand there was a kind of sand at the bottom of the tank which had gathered under the strainer and which also blocked about 40% of the net. And the rest of the stagnant fuel was not a pretty sight ...

I did not have acetone, but as it was in good condition, I blew dry with a blow gun connected to my compressor. Everything is gone. The new fuel filter was a little dirty, but nothing more, I emptied its contents vigorously. And then I put everything together. (Alain G: I did not change the O-ring, because I do not know where it is and did not dare to dismantle the pump ... There was a clip crimped on the axis (taking support on a part plastic in a state of stiffness limit ...) which would probably no longer be due to disassembly / reassembly, and I did not want to take any risks ...)

Then I bought two bottles of product for the injectors (STP, I had already used their product which I think is very good if not Wynn's) and I refueled.

I did about 20 km in sporty driving once the engine was warm, then 10 km "cushy" ... to see. Well, here it is! After 7 km she hiccupped, then from time to time not very bad starters and she set off again. In cushy driving he also sometimes hiccups.

Well, I don't know if I did everything right, but these few hiccups eventually make me say that this pump is "limited in standards" and that it will probably have to be changed. I do not rule out small weaknesses here and there either for a vehicle with 186 terminals ... (HC rate too high during combustion ...)

Or maybe I also have a problem with the valve that occasionally remains stuck too (but I don't know if that makes this type of symptoms). In short, overall the "titine" is fine, and these "Sub" engines with multipoint injection ... well they "tear" !!! : Shock: : Cheesy:

Image

So a big thank you to: Alain G, Aumicron, Axeau, Christophe, Citro, Dedeleco, Ex-océano, Flytox, Forhorse, Remundo and Swift2540! You're great! :D :D :D

Even if I'm not home, the heart is there. I offer you a small foam (in moderation) : Mrgreen:

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AXEAU
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BLOCK AT THE PASSAGE OF SPEEDS




by AXEAU » 04/04/10, 22:01

Hello Obamot.

Thanks for the foam.

It makes me think that I forgot to tell you to empty your tank by disconnecting the return that you could measure the flow at this time.
The values ​​to remember are easy, it's either a can or a half.

Let me explain. There is a flow rate of 35 cl in 15s for a mono point inj and 50 cl for a multi point.

In your case, a 3 cyl. multi point, 40 cl must be suitable.

For Alain, is this engine related to that of the Opel Corsa B which is an Isuzu?
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by Alain G » 05/04/10, 00:49

Hey ben Obamot!

Good news!

I'm happy for you!

For the small light setting, you can disconnect the battery for a 15 minutes and recalibrate the module with the new data it receives given the problem solved, this module was self-adapting and tried to correct the error that caused your pitch engine.

If you do, start the engine and wait for it to stabilize and turn well, go on the road accelerating moderately on the first three gears and then stop completely and restart fully at first in 2 or 3 times, restart by accelerating at based on the first 3 speeds, so the module will be completely reprogrammed!


Sorry Axeau the Opels are not available here in Canada so I really have no idea if they use the same cog!
:D
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by Remundo » 05/04/10, 09:28

Obamot wrote:First observation, the tank and the pump looked relatively good, very little corrosion. On the other hand there was a kind of sand at the bottom of the tank which had gathered under the strainer and which also blocked about 40% of the net. And the rest of the stagnant fuel was not a pretty sight ...
Image
as it was in good condition, I blew dry with a blow gun connected to my compressor [], I emptied its contents vigorously. And then I put everything together. [] There was a clip crimped on the axis (resting on a plastic part in a state of stiffness limit ...) which probably would no longer have been due to disassembly / reassembly, and I did not want to take any risks. ..)
[]
I did about 20 km in sporty driving once the engine was warm, then 10 km "cushy" ... to see. Well, here it is! After 7 km she hiccupped, then from time to time not very bad starters and she set off again. In cushy driving he also sometimes hiccups.

Well, I don't know if I did everything right, but these few hiccups eventually make me say that this pump is "borderline []

Or maybe I also have a problem with the valve that occasionally remains stuck too (but I don't know if that makes this type of symptoms). In short, overall the "titin" is fine [] : Shock: : Cheesy:

Good news Obamot,

In these cases, the titin is fine. :D
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by Obamot » 05/04/10, 09:46

Thanks Remundo, hey hey! : Cheesy:

Alain G wrote:Hey ben Obamot!

Good news!

I'm happy for you!

Yes, again a big thank you, eh!

Alain G wrote:For the small light setting, you can disconnect the battery for a 15 minutes and recalibrate the module with the new data it receives given the problem solved, this module was self-adapting and tried to correct the error that caused your pitch engine.

I am always impressed by the R&D who develop these engines, especially the process engineers who are able to juggle new technologies and alternatives to reset the routines by shearing them ... : Lol:

Alain G wrote:If you do, start the engine and wait for it to stabilize and turn well, go on the road accelerating moderately on the first three gears and then stop completely and restart fully at first in 2 or 3 times, restart by accelerating at based on the first 3 speeds, so the module will be completely reprogrammed!

There the novice that I am in the matter takes point by point: not sure to have everything "understood" Image

Indeed, the battery had already been disconnected several times (on all occasions when one intervenes on the fuel supply circuit ...of course! Image ). I suspected that there must have been something like this since I had taken great care to circulate the fuel in a complete loop (by switching on the ignition without starting the engine at least twenty times) so as to avoid there is no air bubble in the circuit when I start the fire (says "Canadian" : Cheesy: ) ... for Europeans it would be rather at the moment when I actuate the starter ... (lol) And it worked well since it went away.

... then: your message makes me think that's not enough. Now you have to send "clear orders and measures" back to the module, right? Therefore

1) I understand that I must disconnect the battery again 15min to make a "reset" before the return of new "orders / measures", since I had not done so previously, because the system had perhaps already memorized "bad measures". That's it?

2) So I reconnect the battery, start the engine and wait for it to stabilize and turn well. Does that mean that it has to go up a little in temperature? Clearly, your procedure must be warm engine or not?

3) I go on the road accelerating moderately on the first three gears and then stop completely. So I only do this ONCE, right?
- And "Moderately" what does it mean? ~ 2 turns max? (On this nervous engine, the admissible speed for which the engine provides the best performance, is between 500 and 1 revolutions).

4) I turn off the engine?

5) I reboot fully first 2 or 3 times. Does this mean that I go up to the red zone limit each time?

6) I turn off the engine?

7) Finally I restart by accelerating fully on the first 3 speeds => I up to the limit of the red zone?

8} I go to the first bistro to refuel Image (with moderation!)

9) And box the blein ébec .. québecdué, I abelle un tagzxi.

10) Garzon, the chozz baby. Image

I apologize for being so precise and "academic" : Mrgreen: but if I have another occurrence of slight breakdown which is expressed elsewhere, I must be sure to eliminate this possible disorder first Image

8) : Cheesy:
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Alain G
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by Alain G » 05/04/10, 14:00

LOL!

Pretty pitchounettes!

In fact your module can be programmed by itself but the procedure at the exit of the dealer is closely the one I gave you, the goal is to give it the timing conditions so that it reprograms itself in all the conditions of use!

Totophe is right! Don't you have pictures of the after drink?
: Cheesy:
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by Alain G » 05/04/10, 14:41

Obamot Hi!

Well, I did the tests, but it's not as good as yesterday.


What are the symptoms and under what conditions?
:D
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