How to connect a wind car alternator

[darwenn]

There is no diagram with this kind of regulator? because I do not see how to use the relay in this type of assembly. The relay sticks during an excess load, but how to define from what voltage it will stick to dissipate the excess energy in the lamps? For me it is vague being rather a beginner the diagrams help me a lot. I searched on google without finding anything really conclusive. I will need to know the connection of the relay and the number of bulbs to absorb the excess.

[Alain G]

Are you skilled in electronics?
If so I can give you some diagrams available on the web.


The voltage is around 14.2 to 14.7 volts, depending on the battery, must be seen with the manufacturer, you can adjust according to the type of battery.

[Alain G]

darwenn

You can also try without the diode bridges, with the original regulator, installing only the three capacitors and see if the excitation is done by itself.

If it works, that would be really great, suddenly you wouldn't need any modification and no more need for excitement.


I could do a test on mine as soon as I have time.
It works on an AC motor as a generator, so I don't see why it wouldn't work on an alternator.

[darwenn]

I do a little electronics, let's say it was a passion a few years ago. So yes if you have a diagram I am a taker.

As the diode bridge does not solve my problem, I will go back with the original regulator. I will do a test for excitation with capacitors.

What worries me is the torque that will be required from the propeller to drive the alternator once excited, I saw that some had put a permanent magnet there and redone the winding to obtain a charging voltage at a low speed of rotation, but I admit that remaking a winding does not inspire me. Or I will have to multiply the torque so much to run the excited alternator that it scares me there

If I use my engine running continuously as a generator, as it will be connected to the battery to recharge it, there will be a problem since the battery will then run the engine rather than being recharged by it. I suppose that there too I have to use diodes to only let the current flow in the direction of the motor towards the battery and not in the reverse is it?

Do you think it works well with your original alternator? do you have pictures of your installation? how did you multiply the torque and the rotation of your propeller?

[elephant]

In my opinion, you will not do without a feedback loop: voltage obtained / excitation current.

Adjusting the excitation current is interesting because it is a small current, easy to adjust by a transistor.

[darwenn]

I just had an interesting experience, tell me what you think.

I run empty, I energize the alternator, (empty without battery). I have a small normal slowdown.

There if I put the + of the diode bridge on the + battery, I have a very clear slowdown, normal the alternator provides. I stop there because my drive motor will burn out.

I do the same thing but instead of connecting the + of the diode bridge directly to the + battery, I connect a headlight bulb in series to the + diode bridge with the battery. At the lamp output I measure 15,9 volts. I connect the lamp output to the + battery, the light reddened slightly and there it slows down a bit but nothing very dramatic for my engine. I measure the battery voltage I have 12,3 volts during the "charge".

In summary do you think that I can charge the battery properly with a light connected in series on the + battery ?. There it works well, the alternator opposes a reasonable force, but where I wonder is if it will charge the battery normally? What do you think ?

I will do a test with a dead battery to measure the voltage at its terminals under load.

[darwenn]

Well, I just tested by wanting to charge a dead battery, the light comes on stronger and I measure 8 volts and it increases every second I stopped the test at 8,7 volts on the dead battery. Normally I should measure a lot more than that, right? I should measure the voltage that the alternator needs to send (ie about 13 volts) and not the battery charge (8,7 volts).

[darwenn]

Okay, that seems to be working.

The voltage of the flat battery before test charging. 6 volts

The voltage of the battery during the Charge goes up from 8 volts to 9 volts when I stopped the test for a few minutes

The voltage of the dead battery after testing and disconnected is 7 volts, so this is proof that it is charging. If it's ok, it's great because the torque requested by the alternator with a lamp in series is less and my engine runs well. Out of curiosity I will do the same tests but using the original connections.

[darwenn]

Well with the original connections + and - At the alternator output with a lamp in series on the + it does not work, at no load the voltage is only 9 volts instead of 16 with the diode bridge and falls to zero when charging the battery, so with the original + and - it doesn't work. In any case it looks like nikel with the diode bridge and a serial lamp, but it involves adding a regulator unless the serial lamp can act as a resistance, but I await your opinion

[elephant]

Darwenn, we like you, but you experiment like a barbarian!