How to connect a wind car alternator

[Alain G]

As Elephant mentions, the ideal is to place the batteries and the inverter at the foot of the mast of the wind turbine to minimize losses and transport electricity at higher voltage and save on wire, but it is necessary to bring back another wire for real-time reading of the battery status (amperage consumed and battery voltage.

[darwenn]

Well that's great it works, but I have to connect to the - of the battery, the - of the alternator otherwise the excitation does not take.

Then I measure 15,9 volts between the plus and minus of the diode bridge so I guess that's perfect. The + of the alternator is no longer used, on the other hand out of curiosity I measured the voltage I had on it and I have 29 volts weird isn't it?

Anyway I use the 15,9 volts at the output of the diode bridge.

During the excitation the blocking force of the alternator is markedly reduced, there is no picture it is clearly obvious, although it still rubs but nothing to do with what I had before so with a small multiplication with a pulley, I should be able to further reduce the effort required of my drive motor, the goal being to reduce the effort required of the propeller compared to the effort of the alternator once energized.

So in the end two last questions, is it normal to still have to plug in the - of the alternator to have the excitement? and then an important point, where can I find a cheap regulator that I can connect to the output of the diode bridge to regulate the battery charge?

[darwenn]

In any case thank you for all of your help, pfiouuu it's progressing that's good. Here is a picture of the whole

[Alain G]

darwenn


As I explained above, you can try to put 2 small magnets on the rotor and also there are capacitors that you can put (3) between each of the three wires which can also activate the magnetic field, capacitors of 2 to 5 Microfarads of AC motor should do the trick.

1 between A1 and A2, 1 between A2 and A3 and 1 between A3 and A1.

The force required from the alternator is equivalent to the load supplied at the output, so if the load is too strong, the blocking will be stronger.

In your test, when you remove the wires from the excitation, does the alternator continue to produce?

Is the reading of 15.9 volts when you are plugged into the battery?

Which wire is the 29 volt reading taken on, or taken without a battery?

Good work!

[darwenn]

The reading of 15, Volts 9 at the output of the bridge is empty, therefore not connected to the battery.

The 29 volts are read between the old + and - of the alternator idem, voltage taken at no load.

Then yes, once I remove the excitation wire, the alternator continues to produce well.

If I put condos I will no longer need to energize the alternator? ha that's interesting !!!! the condos are polarized but hey I can measure the polarities between the coils.

[Alain G]

You must do the test connected to a car or deep cycle battery. Your little engine may not be able to provide the torque necessary for proper operation.

the 29 volts is normal on the old regulator because there is a capacitor which accumulates the voltage, however this regulator should have been removed.

The capacitors I am talking about must not be polarized, you can use speaker condos given the low voltage and they are not polarized (midrange speaker capacitor for example).

[darwenn]

Ha thin yes I just did the battery connected test and there and well it is the cat, it comes back as before, blocking and super big slowdown never a propeller will be able to cause that, so the diode bridge does not change anything then? Rhaaa I'm dying, what does it change if I turn the regulator which gives 29 volts?

[Alain G]

Sorry if I don't answer suddenly, but I'm doing some fieldwork while I'm answering you.

If there is too much blockage it means that your engine / alternator ratio is not correct, but don't worry because the blades will certainly be more powerful than your small engine, you can not hope in test much more than 60/100 of the capacity of your engine.

You can remove your regulator but that will not change anything, the important thing is to have the right ratio Engine (blades) versus the alternator, this is why I recommend keeping the pulley to be able to optimize the ratio if necessary.

I recommend blades of over 2 meters (1 meter per blade) for the capacity of your alternator (725 watts).

The regulation must be done on resistors, lights, that is to say that you divert the surplus towards these resistances when the batteries are full charge.

12 volt lights are easy to find and you can set up inexpensively.

[darwenn]

Ok, for the lights, simple headlight bulbs would suffice then, but how many should I put in series ?. Should add resistors? if so, how much and at what value?

and this assembly, I plug it directly into the battery so that it "absorbs" the excess?


Thank you for your answers and the time you devote to it, although I need specific details to fully understand

[Alain G]

The lights you connect them in parallel, you use a relay to divert the surplus without draining the batteries, you can also use a diode of strong amperage on the battery not to discharge it and you connect before this one, the two solutions work.

There is no problem you can ask all the questions that will help you to realize your project, it is a pleasure for me.