Hello,
interesting topic I have at home 4 flurescents fixtures 2x36W (in T8) that are on the majority of the day and are equipped with ferromagnetic ballast ... since I have known electronic ballast I want to replace my lighting by lighting more recent, but I see the impossibility of finding this type of lighting in our Bricomachins, and net the crazy price for a simple electronic ballast ... (While on the other side of the Atlantic luminaires fluo ferro magnetic ballast are nearly untraceable, long replaced by electronic ballast ...)
I saw on eBay France electronic ballast € 31 citro which speaks in the first page of this, buy me 4 stay too expensive, and seeking more, I found on ebay uk electronic ballast £ 8 (making ten euros, already more reasonable) ... But I have doubts about the reliability of said ballast to 3AAA ref brand. YZ-236EAA here .. a photo found on another site (the one I see on eBay is provided with terminals rather than pre-wired, but other than that it is the same). Someone he already tried these ballast?
(That's what I currently have:
Consumer 160W to 2 36W tubes ... what's wrong ... )
electronic ballast fluorescent tubes
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gregdu13250 wrote:If your strips are good she is already compensated me the capacitor is already on the ferro-magnetic ballast for T5 8w, old ruler of my garage has a power factor of 0.85 which is not bad given their age.
My ballast consumes 0.145A be 33 VA without the capacitor, the capacitor with I do not know, but since a capacitor has a cos phi phi 0 and he provided a negative reactive power and thus reduces the power capacity when apparante appropriate
(PS: The mean what it lambda in the ballast?)
Hello,
sory, your photo is deworming condo, not cosine compensation. (0.047μf)
@+
0 x
This is not because we always said that it is impossible that we should not try
s3phy wrote: Hello,
I saw on eBay France electronic ballast € 31 citro which speaks in the first page of this, buy me 4 stay too expensive, and seeking more, I found on ebay uk electronic ballast £ 8 (making ten euros, already more reasonable) ... But I have doubts about the reliability of said ballast to 3AAA ref brand. YZ-236EAA here .. a photo found on another site (the one I see on eBay is provided with terminals rather than pre-wired, but other than that it is the same). Someone he already tried these ballast?
Ben is not the same as mine and there is no marking of conformity to the standard IED (A2 for mine)
In my case, I have tried it ...
s3phy wrote: Consumer 160W to 2 36W tubes ... what's wrong ... )
Indeed, it irritates.
As I wrote above shows that the capacitor gregdu13250 and as was pointed out Bibiphoque
the picture
represents a deworming condo, no cosine compensation. (0.047μf)
0 x
citro wrote:Ben is not the same as mine and there is no marking of conformity to the standard IED (A2 for mine)
In my case, I have tried it ...
I think I'll order one to try, and if it works well, I will command 3 others)
Edit: I found the product on the manufacturer's website: http://www.3aaa.com/en/product.php?pid=65 . EEI = A2 too;) Level specs it looks to be the entry level, ignition without preheating, operation 2kHz ... Finally it can not be worse than the magnetic ferro I ordered one.
0 x
- elephant
- Econologue expert
- posts: 6646
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- x 7
Say what you will, the good old ferro ballast are more sturdy: personally, for reliability reasons I avoid electronic ballast, as well as electronic transformers for halogen.
I left a house two years ago when all the ballast had over 60 years!
And do not speak too much energy savings: when to run to buy a new one!
I left a house two years ago when all the ballast had over 60 years!
And do not speak too much energy savings: when to run to buy a new one!
0 x
elephant Supreme Honorary éconologue PCQ ..... I'm too cautious, not rich enough and too lazy to really save the CO2! http://www.caroloo.be
You're not wrong elephant but it is also there to make our own experiences and to benefit the community.
s3phy has a yield of 50% with its magnetic ferro, as 100% of approach with an electronic ballast and estimating at € 20 are cost price (purchase + shipping + miscellaneous), it would dampen investment are about 1700 hours.
This seems reasonable as mini life. by then the price of the kwh is not going down and he can expect an increase in longevity of the tube. At worst, it keeps the ferro magnetic ballast to troubleshoot ...
Besides electronic ballasts offer interesting advantages:
- Rapid start
- Over starter
- Better lighting
- ...
s3phy you indicate
Finally you
We are waiting for your measurements, since you have a superb clamp ammeter ...
s3phy has a yield of 50% with its magnetic ferro, as 100% of approach with an electronic ballast and estimating at € 20 are cost price (purchase + shipping + miscellaneous), it would dampen investment are about 1700 hours.
This seems reasonable as mini life. by then the price of the kwh is not going down and he can expect an increase in longevity of the tube. At worst, it keeps the ferro magnetic ballast to troubleshoot ...
Besides electronic ballasts offer interesting advantages:
- Rapid start
- Over starter
- Better lighting
- ...
s3phy you indicate
it just seems to me. I read that if one goes to 15 kHz improves 15% of the lighting power (performance)operation 2kHz
Finally you
this is reassuring.EEI = A2
We are waiting for your measurements, since you have a superb clamp ammeter ...
0 x
The ballast of my fly kills died yesterday, following your
I have discussed looking on the net to find an electronic ballast
not too expensive.
Here is what I have found:
http://www.aquariophilie.org/bricolage/balelec.php
J have tried, AC works very well and the first try,
I used an economical lamp that was "dead", that
makes it a 2 th life.
What interesserai m c is to know if this is REALLY ballast
chauffeur-driven consumption compared to a standard ballast.
I don not have the equipment to check this consumption is c
why did I call al team.
If a handyman dismantled one such lamp, do not remove the cap
.c of the lamp is easier to revise the ballast ds a socket that
to try to find a box to put it all .From more questions
son, c's still simpler.
I have discussed looking on the net to find an electronic ballast
not too expensive.
Here is what I have found:
http://www.aquariophilie.org/bricolage/balelec.php
J have tried, AC works very well and the first try,
I used an economical lamp that was "dead", that
makes it a 2 th life.
What interesserai m c is to know if this is REALLY ballast
chauffeur-driven consumption compared to a standard ballast.
I don not have the equipment to check this consumption is c
why did I call al team.
If a handyman dismantled one such lamp, do not remove the cap
.c of the lamp is easier to revise the ballast ds a socket that
to try to find a box to put it all .From more questions
son, c's still simpler.
0 x
Good then
I received my electronic ballast it a few days ago, I wanted to wait a while before posting my opinion ...
Level installation, it goes narrowly wide by my lights, and is slightly thicker than the old ferromagnetic ballast ... so my light does not close perfectly
comfort level, the instant start is great, the operating 2 kHz is appreciable (more sparkling curiosity: on the screen of my digital camera flicker is still present, whereas the eye naked we see the difference with a ferro-magnetic ballast fixture next ...), I not feel that lighting is stronger than before (or maybe a little bit) ...
By consumption level against ...
Fifty watts for two tubes 36W, who says better?
Besides, if someone could explain to me how I can use less than the power of my 2 tubes) (note that the two tubes are old (6 years already) and worked many hours, it just may be there ...)
Basically I planned to buy a ballast such as LCI citro to install another fixture and compare with 3AAA ballast, but seen as I am satisfied with the 3AAA I can order another one (... then also the LCI seems bigger than the 3AAA, which already barely fits ... ^^) (and yes, I know I had said "maybe 3 others" a few messages earlier, but finally I realize that I have 2 lights that I rarely turn on)
I received my electronic ballast it a few days ago, I wanted to wait a while before posting my opinion ...
Level installation, it goes narrowly wide by my lights, and is slightly thicker than the old ferromagnetic ballast ... so my light does not close perfectly
comfort level, the instant start is great, the operating 2 kHz is appreciable (more sparkling curiosity: on the screen of my digital camera flicker is still present, whereas the eye naked we see the difference with a ferro-magnetic ballast fixture next ...), I not feel that lighting is stronger than before (or maybe a little bit) ...
By consumption level against ...
Fifty watts for two tubes 36W, who says better?
Besides, if someone could explain to me how I can use less than the power of my 2 tubes) (note that the two tubes are old (6 years already) and worked many hours, it just may be there ...)
Basically I planned to buy a ballast such as LCI citro to install another fixture and compare with 3AAA ballast, but seen as I am satisfied with the 3AAA I can order another one (... then also the LCI seems bigger than the 3AAA, which already barely fits ... ^^) (and yes, I know I had said "maybe 3 others" a few messages earlier, but finally I realize that I have 2 lights that I rarely turn on)
0 x
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