Aerated concrete

[jonule]

breathable walls: naturally wick away moisture.
very healthy.
avoids the installation of a vmc that heats the heating, savings.

stone walls, bricks etc ... coated lime inside / outside: the natural top, beautiful coatings.

moisture that rises from the ground by capillarity is no longer trapped in the wall to make moisture stains.
in short, it rots the walls, the cement and many worries! it is a type construction "after war" kind hollow block what ...

the principle :
http://www.ideesmaison.com/Les-murs-respirants.html

perso, in renovation, I am removing the cladding of the main beam, ceiling that hide the other beams and slabs of natural bricks etc .... and obviously the plaster outside plaster cement for the wall, as well as the foundations, which must also breathe.

the walls of a house like the lungs have to breathe, otherwise it's like putting your head in a plastic bag!

[Chatham]

this lack of breathability is so blatant that the establishment of vmc has become systematic; if still they were a double flow ...
l

VMC has nothing to do with breathability, but just with the ventilation which suddenly instead of punctual opening windows, becomes variable depending on the hygrometry with minimal heat losses in the winter and freshness in summer (if we have not tried we do not know!): the VMCs are also installed in restored old houses: this notably avoids the needlessly swallowing of radon (especially in granite houses on granite subsoil) and various pollutants (including those of organic origin) found in any house ... and also to facilitate the drying of the laundry inside (that's obvious!), the water vapor released in the bathroom, the evacuation of the smells and vapors of kitchen, etc ...
When natural stone walls, plastered or plastered or natural, it is often a moisture pump if it is poorly constructed (depends on the terrain and local rainfall), the water rising through the walls by capillarity especially with granite .
I knew a beautiful natural stone house in Burgundy that had damp walls as soon as it rained, water seeping into the walls from the ground: everything is not so rosy ... and the walls Of stone thermal insulation question ... if they are not thick it is freezing, if they are thick or very thick (which is frequent) the inertia is enormous and it is necessary to heat strong and long to warm the rooms. ..A friend who has an old Vosges farmhouse with thick 1m stone walls has experienced it: fortunately he has cheap firewood (but must do it himself ...) .. .

[jonule]

the vmc consumes all year ... and turns all the heat in winter.

otherwise how to quantify "minimal" losses? in % ? in watts? anyway, that takes some away.

I knew vmc for many years of rental, it did not prevent me from opening the doors and windows during cleaning (for those who know). I cut it all the same in hvier when I was warming up.

with the wood stove, there is always a "natural" ventilation because the air rushes through the air inlet of the stove, to come out through the casing. this is clearly seen with the air which enters under the door and the windows.

the only modification I made: make a big air intake (with an adjustable / closed air intake grille) for the stove, so the ventilation is even better, but especially the stove radiates much better, c is blatant.

radon, a false pretense of the nuclear lobby as lung disease, exists only in subsoils and crawl spaces, not ventilated, but as I just said, there is natural ventilation even in ventilations without VMC; must not say that we die asphyxiated in a house without vmc!


for organic pollutants and volatile I banish and depollue thanks to plants (ficus ivy etc ...)

for the kitchen I put a hood, just above the stove and wood stove: the fan is all alone, even hood extinguished: it is still natural (and not nuclear).
as for drying clothes in a house is a heresy, it must be done in a laundry!
there is only one place where I intend to put a fan mouth on timer (it activates a switch and sucks for 15 mn for example): the bathroom, and again it's not on because it is enough to open the window in summer, the sun being used to kill microbes by UV radiation.

but I speak well of house and not of apartments + or - unhealthy and badly built in blockwork / cement coating ...

the natural stone walls are old, they can only be built, after it is the cement coating that must be removed, to join the lime etc ... visible stones for example, it is very nice and gives back the stamp of houses covered with gray cement, which begin to become moldy down.

for cement coatings we have to make a peripheral drain that costs time and money, no need with breathable walls!
I must find these sketches ... but the links that I have indicated are enough: the humidity that rises is evacuated outside if we have a breathing wall (ie without external cement already, and without placo inside).
the stone walls are excellent to retain the heat, certainly they cool down it would be necessary to do as Christophe says insulation from the outside (slates in his case, excellent).
but at 50cm thick as at home, maintaining the T ° C there is no problem, and it is not even necessary to isolate!

if not all break everything and rebuild in cinderblock!

with this mass of stone I will stick a homemade mass brick stove and earth mortar joint, the best for the heat, it will heat the whole mass of the house, which will radiate thereafter ... the stove of mass also allows to heat the wood pallets, gratos ;-)

chatam, you know the wood it is delivered nowadays (but it is true that it is 10 times cheaper to do it yourself ;-)!

I have a fuel boiler for maintenance in T ° C it is on mini, it heats my rooms in the morning when I go to the taf and the evening
when I come back, there is the wood stove for the charm, and a wood stove for comfort (soon a mass stove cheap Ukrainian type) wood is good for your health!

[jonule]

to illustrate my words, rather than blabla:


taken from http://www.tiez-breiz.org/ , technical sheets> insulation of old buildings.

another very good:
http://www.tamaisontonjardin.net/article.php3?id_article=27

remember that a plaster in the interior soil, stores the heat, it can even be passed beforehand a network of heating pipes as for the heated floor, solar of course ;-)

[jeromeb]

it is useless to oppose parging to stone or rammed earth. apart from some unconditional ones, this is no longer for a reason of cost and delay.
On the other hand,

the choice between cinder block, ytong and honeycomb brick is still relevant.

the nerve of war except the price is to find craftsmen who pose the product you want to put.

most of them working with concrete blocks will only ask for this unless express request from the customer and again !!

the advantage of the ytong is the ability to do without finishing if the assembly is perfect.

like any other product it will not stand to be in direct weather (repeated rain)

I am skeptical of its ability to "breathe". and on its composition with alumina.
Sacahnt that I exclude the cinderblock that is worth absolutely nothing, the brick has the disadvantage of consuming energy for its manufacture and remains fragile enough to transport and delicate to cut (it needs a special electric saw egoine)
on the other hand, his glued pose is perfect and extremely fast. There are two models from now on, one with traditional lime cement lime mortar and one with glue. the filing time is shorter or equivalent to the blocks, the overall cost thus becoming almost identical.
I'm only talking about construction. because has the use there is no photo.

So for me winner of materials that do not frighten future buyers and craftsmen = alveolar brick.

otherwise, we go to the hemp bricks. the ideal in my opinion. all the qualities. remains to verify the ability to support a complete house structure. There, i dont know.

the vmc if it is double flow is not necessarily a financial pit or too much energy. If we can do without it.

I persist in saying that the simple flow is inept.

at home, stone wall, rammed earth and alveolar bricks of 40cm covered in exterior with an airy lime plaster for 80% and hydraulic for 20%

interior walls covered with lime / hemp plaster of 5 8 cm thick.

no polyane on the ground. hedgehog 15cm stone then hemp sand lime on 15cm then lime slab and untreated tiles water repellent and mounted on sand lime bed.

it breathes. and above all the humidity remains between 50 and 70%

it is very unhealthy to go beyond these values ​​one way or the other. living at 30% relative humidity in a house seems frightening to me. nose all dry .... among others, skin fletry ... at my parents' house it's ca, I can not my hair is brittle etc

I have the advantage of having large volumes. room of 25m2 mini.
in southern brittany
heating in the stove and electric quality in complement.

one last thing, you have to have a harmony in the chosen products.

so choose what you want but be in adequation with your choices from a to z
if we take cinderblock we take glass wool and polystyrene to complete the picture. nothing breathes and we know it.
therefore not necessary to put a microporous coating ....

l ytong is the intermediate solution that can satisfy the self-builder. easy to implement, to stick to work. easy grooving for electricity. remains its composition and its various properties that interest us.

it is unthinkable to put, as the picture shows before, glass wool that does not breathe on a stone wall. it is the insured cattery unless you have only a few bad weather and hair rising and still
as it is incongruous to put the natural tomette and treat it water repellent after having put it to the glue ... on a slab of hemp lime. I saw it with my eyes seen.
ecologists bobos who had subscribed to a speech of one of the craftsmen but who had not been at the end of the process by saving time and misunderstanding. infuriating.

[denis]

As for rammed earth, it can not be considered as an insulator, unlike cellular concrete. By cons it stores well where its use in hot areas.
Then the law limits the height of earthen constructions.

sorry the pizzè is a good insulator, even if it takes a thicker thicker thickness, and it serves as a battery, a material that breathes, we can not build very high of course .. but the cell is not there not alike ??, on ciporex wall sinks heavy traditional concrete slabs! I find it aberrative! (I always lived in pizzè), if one day I build, it will be in pizzzzè leaves or to make a mixture earth / straw / hot

[Christophe]

According to my information, I rammed a lambda 1.1 see insulation properties of concretes

In terms of insulation, it's less than twice as good as conventional concrete (2 lamdba) and 6.5 times worse than 400 kg / m3 cellular concrete so sorry I do not think we can call it insulating!

In other words it takes 6,5 times more thickness of rammed earth than cellular concrete! An 30 cm wall of insulating cellular as much as a thickness of 2 m of mud! If you want to live in a bunker it's your choice but stop saying that the mud is an insulator!

For me an insulator starts at a lambda lower than 0.3 (and again ...)!

For the inertia yes but there is much better but maybe that's why you think it's a good insulation ...

Here are some data

Rammed earth (2000 kg / m3)
Density: 2000 kg / m3 (= inertia)
Lambda: 1.200 W / ° Cm (== insulation)
Mass heat: 800 kJ / kg ° C (= inertia)

We therefore have a volumic heat of 2000 * 800 = 1 kJ / m600. ° C. It's better than cellular concrete (too light) but any "classic" concrete or cement does better ... (000%)

[bham]

Hi jeromeb, are you from what corner in southern Brittany?

knowing that I exclude the block which is worth absolutely nothing, the brick has the disadvantage of consuming energy for its manufacture.

Do not forget that the blocks are made with cement whose manufacture is also energy-intensive. In one case, it is heated to dry / cook and in the other to manufacture the material 1ère. A comparison on this subject would be interesting to find.

interior walls covered with lime / hemp plaster of 5 8 cm thick. .

To the touch, the coating is cold? neutral?

if we take cinderblock we take glass wool and polystyrene to complete the picture. nothing breathes and we know it.
therefore not necessary to put a microporous coating ....
it is unthinkable to put, as the picture shows before, glass wool that does not breathe on a stone wall. it is the cata ensured unless you have only a few bad weather and capillary rises.

I do not agree, the breezeblast breathes. Just see the rain through an uncoated cinderblock wall to understand that if the water runs through it, the air too.
Glass wool: same
Polystyrene / polyurethane: okay.
Regarding the alliance stone / glass wool, you should know that the stone will always be at the outside temperature over its entire thickness (approximately) and the glass wool at the internal temperature throughout its thickness. So at the point of contact dew point, so condensation since meets cold / hot.
If you also have no air gap between the stone and the insulation and you have no vapor barrier on your glass wool, there is sure CATA assured. But contrary to what you say, it is not the glass wool (which I am not adept) that does not breathe, it is rather your stone wall (especially granite) that does not breathe and can not evacuate the interior moisture.

[jonule]

What about confusion ?!

if the water passes through a block of air the air does not necessarily pass, question of capillarity I think;

breathability is the airtightness from the inside to the outside which must be minimal;

an air gap to be insulating must be stable: without ventilation. like that of peripheral walls.

an air gap to dry an insulation must be ventilated, like that of the attic, it also removes moisture.



Well, if not, does not one speak of the advantage of the straw boot as a wall construction? breathability at the top, R between 6 and 8 depending on the layout (and the thickness), thermal insulation and phoique at the top, cheap, superbre finish, lime or earth, natural, breathable etc!

look for "cstb paille" on this site for professional info ;-)

[bham]

What about confusion ?!
if the water passes through a block of air the air does not necessarily pass, question of capillarity I think;

Sorry jonule but for me there's no confusion. Yes ok for the capillarity, it does not prevent that when you see the water to drip on the other side of the wall, I do not know if one can see there only capillarity. On the other hand the blocks are made as economically as possible, so the manufacturer uses the least amount of material possible and to achieve this result avoid over-packing the concrete in the mold: the less you cup, the less raw material you have to put , more porous is your block.
So capillarity yes but probably also porosity and therefore not airtight.

Well, if not, does not one speak of the advantage of the straw boot as a wall construction? breathability at the top, R between 6 and 8 depending on the layout (and the thickness), thermal insulation and phoique at the top, cheap, superbre finish, lime or earth, natural, breathable etc!

Ben jonule you try to put on all subjects your straw.