The Ecoquille comes out of its shell

[Christophe]

But has it been calculated what is the total amount of oil consumed in a hundred years, three-quarters of which have only given off heat? Imagine that huge pile of oil that would be fired ... It's more than just thousands of atomic bombs.

The comparison with atomic bombs is bizarre to see shocking ... an atomic bomb is 50% of energy I believe in the form of heat.

Otherwise of course it is estimated: for oil it is less than 1 / 40 000 compared to the energy received on earth by the Sun! So it's peanuts ...

The water rejected by the combustion of fossil fuels is another problem more severe than the heat I think since we are continually increasing the mass of water on earth ...

[bham]

Hello, how do we put in a box the sentence that we wanted to answer?

Hi François, you find the message to which you want to reply and you click on the "quote" button, the rest you will understand on your own, you can select only part of the quoted message.
Besides, if you could take the opportunity to answer me when the similarity "Domespace", HLL in a garden, ... etc, that would interest me.
Because the cars is a little off topic on this post no?

[FrançoisEcoquille]

"Otherwise of course we estimate it: for oil it's less than 1 / 40 compared to the energy received on earth by the Sun! So it's peanuts ..."

Well, well I can not do the thing of quotes ... (it is corrected)
But to answer above, I say OK, actually it's peanuts, not enough to whip a cat.

[FrançoisEcoquille]

Hello, how do we put in a box the sentence that we wanted to answer?

Besides, if you could take the opportunity to answer me when the similarity "Domespace", HLL in a garden, ... etc, that would interest me.
Because the cars is a little off topic on this post no?

It is true that the ecocks have similarities with Domespace, starting with the difficulty to take root. Then, for many criteria, these two homes are similar. With a little less environmental compromise for the shell, and also a lower price. Domespace are also, to my taste, too round, which can a little confuse in lifestyle. Then turning with the sun does not seem to add a lot to comfort, even if it can be nice. For the shells, we want it to cost less than the standard blockhouse houses, which prevents us from being as complex as the Domespace.

In terms of setting up in a garden, if the land is constructible at the base, it is possible. Not easy but possible. On the other hand, the formula HLL corresponds to a definition of the Code of Tourism and it is therefore necessary to make the reception professionally.

Building a shell of the same shape as a Domespace is possible but we did not do it. It seems simple enough. The adaptation to the perfect dome is undoubtedly easy to achieve.

For douglas à galore, this is an interesting point. But we still prefer that the outside woods are larch because it is better weather resistant. The Douglas fir is used rather to the elements of the structure, because it deforms less. None of these two woods requires treatment but we prefer that the wood is fed with fat, wax or oil. The mixture with fine pigment further improves the protection and helps maintain the blond color of the wood.

As for the keyholes, they are round. These holes are numerous, 4 by spacer. The wedges are small parallelepiped oak pieces, one and a half centimeters long, a little sponged, and they fit into round holes of 12 mm, to keep the arches spacers in place . Square in the round. The spacers, they are square (with rounded edge to the top) and come through the OSB plates arches, themselves drilled 4 square holes (with rounded corners) arranged very precisely according to the radius of the arches with a variable inclination . That these holes are square does not strengthen the construction. The spacers work in shear and could turn in their holes if you wanted. But we prefer square because it is easier to manufacture as well. And making square holes in Osb's plates is not much more complicated than making round holes. We use jigs and a router for this drilling. And to improve our manufacturing costs, we will now do this routing with two plates of Osb a little less thick one on the other.
Are my explanations sufficient?

[Gregconstruct]

Hello, how do we put in a box the sentence that we wanted to answer?

In the post where you see the question you want to answer, you click on quote and the post you answer appears in your answer between tags.
If you do not want to have all the text of the post in quote in your answer, you have only to erase the part which does not interest you without erasing the beacons of course.

[jean63]

For douglas à galore, this is an interesting point. But we still prefer that the outside woods are larch because it is better weather resistant. The Douglas fir is used rather to the elements of the structure, because it deforms less. None of these two types of wood require treatment but we prefer that the wood be fed with fat, wax or oil. The mixture with fine pigment further improves the protection and helps maintain the blond color of the wood.

Hey, that interests me because my MOB house is covered with red cedar cladding which has never been stained because it had a superb color once installed. 20 years ago, it has become gray and black in places (due to pollution from the chimneys = particles of wood or fuel oil I think). I have already removed this black deposit with the karcher 2 or 3 times. I would like a solution such as the one you propose: what to put as fatty substance? linseed oil, can it be suitable? which pigment to add to obtain a natural "red cedar" or blond color?

[FrançoisEcoquille]

Hey, that interests me because my MOB house is covered with red cedar cladding which has never been stained because it had a superb color once installed. 20 years ago, it has become gray and black in places (due to pollution from the chimneys = particles of wood or fuel oil I think). I have already removed this black deposit with the karcher 2 or 3 times. I would like a solution such as the one you propose: what to put as fatty substance? linseed oil, can it be suitable? which pigment to add to obtain a natural "red cedar" or blond color?

All lumber eventually darkens in the sun. Wood is sugar and, whatever one does, it caramelises little by little under the effect of heat and infrared. Not to mention the photochemical effects, for example UV. In short, do not dream ...
Some woods become rather gray, like larch. And the cork becomes almost white. So, to keep them a beautiful color, we use a pseudo-recipe of Scandinavian inspiration. You know, the oldest wooden houses in the world are in Norway and Japan. In Scandinavia, we gladly use the land of Falun, which gives wood houses a reddish color. This earth is fine and oxidized. It protects the wood very durably, mixed with oil or grease.
So we followed this path by mixing ordinary oil, sunflower, fine enough to penetrate the wood, with yellow ocher from Chauvin, a very fine powder also. The oil nourishes the wood, retains its suppleness, the ocher clogs the surface holes and colors.
We do not hesitate: three or four applications the first month, one every month thereafter, until saturation of wood and cork. Once or twice a year will be necessary for a few years, but it will be best to put wax oil afterwards, or beeswax (not so expensive if you buy it raw from a beekeeper) . They are more expensive but, as the materials will be well fed, it will take much less. And the wax will not do the chore as often. It is a real treatment, natural and organic, but a treatment anyway. For wood must not be left to his fate.

[Gregconstruct]

If I understand correctly, even if a wood is known to be imputressible, it is still useful to treat it ???

[jean63]

If I understand correctly, even if a wood is known to be imputressible, it is still useful to treat it ???

No ! the red cedar which covers my MOB has never been treated, it is there since 23 years; it's just an aesthetic problem.

It's clear that I'm not going to have fun brushing oil on 250 m2 siding ....... just a kicking shot from time to time on the darkest places and he finds his color. Maybe a little stain after karcher next time, on the blackest parts (little surface).

The red cedar is perfectly rotproof like the larch (see the old chalets in the alpine villages, you must know if you go climbing there?).

I also saw the XIIIth century churches in Norway (stavkirkes).

I do not know what wood they are made of but they are beautiful and intact. I'm going to get a picture

They put tar to protect them (this is not what I read when I went there in 1975) =>

http://trollfjord.free.fr/carte/stavkirk.htm

[FrançoisEcoquille]

If I understand correctly, even if a wood is known to be rot-proof, it is still useful to treat it ???

No ! the red cedar which covers my MOB has never been treated, it is there since 23 years; it's just an aesthetic problem. It's clear that I'm not going to have fun brushing oil on 250 m2 siding ....... just a kick from time to time on the darkest places and he finds his color. Maybe a little stain after karcher next time, on the blackest parts (little surface). The red cedar is perfectly rotproof like the larch (see the old chalets in the alpine villages, you must know if you go climbing there?).

It is true that some woods seem rotproof, like larch, red cedar, cypress swamps. In Louisiana, there are houses that are three hundred years old and have their feet in the water of the Mississippi Delta (Atchafalaya River). But, in fact, no wood is really eternal. So feeding it is almost always a good idea. As the wood dries, it is good to replace its lost water with fat. This is how the wood retains its flexibility and resistance. As for leather, if you do nothing, it ends up drying too much and cracking, while, well fed, we can give his climbing shoes to small children. In short, maintaining the wood is always profitable. For red cedar, it is recognized that this wood is hyper durable, very light, very easy to work, a nice color. Unfortunately, it is rare in the Americas and its importation is difficult, expensive and dangerous for its species. So, the red cedar today, in France, it is not so much more possible.
To avoid having to paint square meters, if you are too old or clumsy, for example, you can very well actually Karcheriser first, then deposit the oil with a spray, like manual machine for the treatment of fruit trees. Otherwise, you can pay someone with a Check-Employment-Service or even hire a specialized company.
Linseed oil is well known. But it is dark and dyes the wood. In addition, for the beginning of the treatment, it remains insufficiently fluid to penetrate the wood in depth. Better, at first, a fine and penetrating oil. Then, it's the opposite, we'll look for a penetrating fat or wax. I did the shutters at my parents' house with linseed oil. Annual chore early and then rare, say every five years. After 40 years of this treatment, the shutters are dark but as new, and the wood has become hard as stone. We feel that it will not be necessary to change them sooner. In short, they will be one hundred years old and always impeccable. PVC can never say the same (photonic aging) and maintenance-free aluminum (oxidation).
See you next, amigos.