Le Potager du Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio

[Biobomb]

Any graft requires a clean cut, without burrs, performed with a perfectly sharp and sanitized tool.
The more there is an important surface ensuring the contact between rootstock and graft, the better will be the success, hence the secret of the English graft, simple or complicated.

[Rust COHLE]

Rust Cohle, for your grafts of fruit trees you use mastic or film. Would it work with stretch film?

For 3-4 years, a period in which I discovered the transplant and where I developed a passion for this technique, I try to document myself as much as possible and therefore to learn as much as possible through books, internet and youtube research, as well as with local grafters, local alumni, and so I quickly wondered about the materials to use in order to "respect" the ecosystem as much as possible, and my conclusion at this time is that the best compromise in my situation is the use of raffia to tie the graft, if possible strands of 1 meter but not easy to find whereas much more practical, and also cold grafting mastic compatible with organic farming , and I found one which suits me well, which has a simple composition and which is made in France, attached in photo, it is the only one that I found fulfilling these conditions.

This system allows me to limit post-transplant interventions because the raffia degrades itself between 6 months and a year and the mastic the same, thus increasing the effectiveness of the operation in the sense of laziness, even if it is advisable to throw away one eye regularly, which is always a pleasure for me almost day to day when I can.

There are many links and many sealants:
- rubber, plastic, paper, iron, natural bond ...
- organic, conventional mastic, tar, clay, wax, hot or cold ...
- budytape (a kind of stretch film indicated as biodegradable having the qualities of both bond and mastic) even if I still wonder about the reality of the biodegradability of these plastics.

Everyone can do according to their desires and means as often in the garden in the broad sense.

Regarding the stretch film in fact I have already seen grafters use it on both fruit trees and vegetables which makes a kind of miniature greenhouse effect retaining humidity, never tried but it seems to to work, just a question from my side about the sun rays hitting on it, doesn't this cause overheating and therefore drying out of the graft? I do not know.
To remedy this, it might be wise to make a "crown of sand" for example in order to make the graft opaque and maintain humidity, as I do for large trunks when I graft in a crown.

https://www.progarein.com/fr/greffage-m ... froid.html

[Biobomb]

The sketches of the different kinds of grafts given by Rust. C., thank you anyway to him for giving them, only concern plants of the same diameter.

[Rust COHLE]

The sketches of the different kinds of grafts given by Rust. C., thank you anyway to him for giving them, only concern plants of the same diameter.

Absolutely, I confirm, for the fruit trees it will be about "small diameters" in particular with the grafting forceps but also manually, as regards the largest diameter I mainly practice the graft in crown and in slot, not yet tried in triangle but it seems that it gives very good results too.

I have not yet seen much hindsight for 3-4 years, and therefore not very much legitimacy to talk to you about this subject, because I only have a few hundred grafts on my board concerning apple, pear, quince, cherry. , almond, plum, citrus, olive.
This year I have the idea of ​​trying something more "exotic", namely chestnut on oak, in the wake of one of the French graft masters, namely Mr. Maurice CHAUDIERE.

[pi-r]

There is one parameter that asks me question: I clearly observed this summer, on cucurbits, on borage, that powdery mildew attacks, "all other things being equal (same place, varieties, etc.) depended on the age of the plant!

I had borage "burnt" by powdery mildew (old) affecting young borage, perfectly intact.

I had a spontaneous emergence of intact (young) zucchini in September and producing against an aged zucchini stalk, totally ravaged ...

So I think plants, like us, get old! Their Covid is called mildew or powdery mildew or others (which we forget that there are 170 strains I believe, news of which is constantly emerging, as among coronaviruses, new ones emerge and strike first - kill first - old)...

I don't think trying to lengthen the lifespan of plants is a generally promising avenue. And if I will continue to "force" early vegetables, I will make sure to have a second wave, sown, planted much later (tomatoes for example - I will, for my sauces, experiment with sowing in place around mid-May (from the 5th if the 10-day weather forecast does not envisage frost; I had one or two spontaneous emergence which almost "caught up" to my indoor seedlings, reared in chassis)

I'm talking about annual or biennial vegetables, of course.

in my more than modest vegetable garden (40 m2 for vegetables) and my very little vegetable garden experience, I noticed that "making it last" is not efficient even in a southern region where the rather favorable season starts early and continues. in addition to the pressure of the pathogens, it seems to me that the high temperatures must also "very tired" the plants. also this year I plan to practice a double implantation.
but having no greenhouse or frame will be:
- plants from local producers for the start of the season,
- personal seedlings for the future.
remains to be seen if the young shoots will withstand the heat better than the older ones?
when catching up with vegetation on staggered seedlings, I observe it on my dwarf green beans. I sow the first ones as soon as possible at the risk that the weather conditions will burn them out. and 10 in 15 days for the following ones. The catch-up is not total (hence the interest) but still significant.
Has anyone done any tests or observations on the influence of the spreading (8/12 cm thick) of very dark compost on the heating of the soil of the culture beds? thank you

[Did67]

But Petit Moineau is not an F1?

Why do sellers of grafted plants never give out the rootstock variety?

No, "Petit Moineau" is a stable cultivated variety of a SPECIES similar to that of tomatoes: it is Solanum pimpinellifolium, and not Solanum esculentum.

They are quite "wild" tomatoes, forming very small fruits (but apparently delicious) ...

I found this Quebec document:

https://potagersdantan.com/2016/09/09/l ... se-a-jour/

I noticed (it's in a video, but I'm wondering if it didn't stay in my hard drive?) That the F1 I used (Protector) looked similar - typical sheets of "pimpinellifolium". I had "cultivated" a foot that I had in excess. Very little fruit. Shaped like currants. Despite exuberant vegetation for a "forgotten bucket"! Obviously, the pure lines used are "pimpinellifolium". Hence my idea to use the F2 seeds that I was able to collect (if they germinate) - the wildness of "pimpinellifolium" should remain ...

As far as labeling is concerned, in fact, this information is scarce - even on fruit trees in garden centers (there are, however, precise indications - such and such a rootstock is dwarfing, another adapted to calcareous soil, etc.). All that is not compulsory, why bother ... !!!

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Stop there I am a truffle

I had some time this afternoon .... it's snowing to work on the station and the probes that I took the opportunity to calibrate
Of the 5, two were identical (and corresponded to the average value of 3 different thermometers including one old-fashioned), 2 had 1 tenth of a degree difference and the 5th 3 tenths
It's cool because we can do all that with the computer

But above all I realized that we could retrieve the statements directly on his computer WITHOUT having to remove the micro sd card
Export automatically opening the ad hoc folder
In short, it escaped me the 1st use

So that takes the station up a notch in my esteem because therefore with only the USB connection we can control everything from the computer
The must would have been to be able to do the same thing WITHOUT the USB cord but frankly it is already not so bad

It will now remain for me to calibrate the probe which is in the steve
They announce for tomorrow

[Did67]

I understand better!

Because it seemed to me to have seen this USB connection bay and I did not understand why, as is the case on my station, we could not directly import the data as I do!

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

I understand better!

Because it seemed to me to have seen this USB connection bay and I did not understand why, as is the case on my station, we could not directly import the data as I do!

The USB allows you to read the temperatures (in theory of your 8 sensors) in real time on your computer but also to make certain settings
Example calibration can be done from the computer.

But I had simply missed the export because it was ... automatic
I stayed with the data logger mode of operation where it is you who carries out the manual export.
In fact, the export displays the table or the graph in the software and the folder button sends you directly to the folder containing the csvs of each exported sensor
Then you have to reprocess the file which is almost the most complicated

Since I insert it in an excel program which compiles the dozens of daily statements in a single daily maximum mini statement
My date and time data is separated in a column each
While the Misol gathers these data in a single column, it takes a bit of tweaking to separate the wheat from the chaff before reintegrating all this into my program

[Did67]

Oh misery !!!

There, you worry me! (knowing that with simple systems, I sometimes lose data!)