Faulty overpressure tank

[66 axurit]

Hello,
After going through this forum with interest, I was able to get quite a few answers to my questions. But not all ...
Here's my problem:
I just bought a new house, equipped with a borehole, bottom pump and storage tank. As much to say to you, that I am completely profane in the matter.
To make it clear and simple:
- vertical ELBY 200 steel tank: 2 flushes, washing machine and dishwasher, automatic watering.
- the pressure switch located on the top of the tank very often slams
and therefore the pump starts up every time.
- if I open a tap, the pump will immediately start.
- a priori: HS bladder or deflated ...

- if I open a garden tap, pump disconnected: no water.
- a priori also, empty tank, right?

- nothing comes out of the inflation valve, neither air nor water. Nothing comes out, but nothing comes in either !! no way to inflate, even with the valve shell removed. And there, I don't understand why ...

So much for the facts.
For the solution:
I am squarely advised to change the ball, implying that:
1 ° - Elby is not a very reliable brand and the bladders made in Italy are too thin and do not last long compared to French women (Cocorico !!)
2 ° - That the cost of the bladder (100 €) plus disassembly and reassembly, leave me little margin, in price and peace of mind, compared to the purchase of a new balloon (300 €).

If you could give me your opinion before getting started, it would help me greatly.

Thank you in advance

[dedeleco]

Weird, look if a closed tap has not disconnected the tank ?????
Understanding the piping plan should help in measuring the pressures.
Indeed it should at least fill with water whatever the state of the bladder. Try to empty this tank by dismantling the pipes to better understand, or even dismantle the bladder to see its condition. ???
The valve is sometimes very hard to inflate but should inflate with high pressure, and zero water pressure.

Installation at what age ?? The bladder could be hardened completely by its age ???

[66 axurit]

The installation is about ten years old.
In addition to trying to re-inflate with a pump, I also tried with a car compressor, connected to the battery.
After barely qq seconds, I heard a big "plop" .... out of prudence and ignorance, I stopped everything for fear of making something "fart". Maybe I should have insisted ...

[dedeleco]

It is better to measure the pressures (a few bars max), to have the water pressure low in the open tank to the outside, but the main risk is to crack the bladder stiffened by its age and which clogs the inflation valve?

[66 axurit]

OKAY.
I guess the pressure is indicated by the mano on the top of the tank. It oscillates between 1,7 and 2 bars. But I'm going to study this more closely this evening.
In any case, thank you for your help.

[oli 80]

Good evening, we can find booster tanks apart, either horizontal tank, the most horny, or vertical on 3 feet, we also find bladders for these tanks, when I saw that I did not even know what it was

I know someone who used a rubber hot water bottle to replace the bladder, but hey I don't even know if it worked, I also found this solution quite rikiki

[66 axurit]

Hi,
I believe that my concern is resolved, at least for the moment: we will see how it lasts. In fact, the bladder was squarely stuck to the tank. But ... stuck from home stuck!
I connected a compressor to the valve, and after a few seconds and a lot of weird noises, the bladder started to inflate. Suddenly, the residual water contained in the tank could be emptied, of a doubtful color moreover.
On the other hand, I do not really know to what pressure it is necessary to inflate. Currently, the compressor mano indicates 2 bar and something, and that of the tank ditto.
Should we inflate more, and to what pressure can we / must we arrive?

[swift2540]

On the other hand, I do not really know to what pressure it is necessary to inflate. Currently, the compressor mano indicates 2 bar and something, and that of the tank ditto.
Should we inflate more, and to what pressure can we / must we arrive?

The maximum pressure is indicated on the tank. Generally they support 4bars.
To re-inflate:
1) you empty the water pressure tank (= stop the pump and open a tap and leave it open!)
2) you inflate with air (if the tap is running it is normal) until 0.5b less than the switching pressure.
Ex: if your group operates between 2bars (engagement) and 4 bars (trigger), you inflate the air side at 1,5bars.
3) you close the taps and check the settings; pressure on - off.
Properly adjusted, your vessel must allow 1 pump switching on every 1 / 3 of its capacity, i.e. all 33L of water / 100L of vase.
If I read correctly, your vase is 200L ==> 1 switch on every 66L of water drawn.
To check in the bucket
@+

[dedeleco]

More than the pressure, it is the difference in volume, linked to the deformation of the membrane that actually matters.
So it is good to measure the volumes to have the membrane not too deformed, according to the structure of the balloon.
The membrane, even if not pierced, risks being porous and gradually losing its air, which explains its stuck position without air.

[swift2540]

It is the interlocking / triggering that guns a pump. The longer the cycle, the longer the pump lasts.

With 0.5b pressure under the cut-in pressure, the membrane does not know how to stick to a wall, it is in perpetual motion, it “travels” to each water intake.

Air is very compressible, but tries to decompress, water very little compressible in comparison.

Of course, the membrane must be non-porous. This will be verified over time (if it "holds the pressure")