ok i didn't know about the huge consumption ca.
can you give me the circuit of your heater system for 100% oil injection if you don't mind of course.
the pantone system how did you adapt it with bubbler taken up on exhaust outlet what is the dimension of the stitching for the bubbler
if you don't mind i will have another question to ask you
A+
Peugeot diesel 205d, with steam generator!
Hi to you !
my car is a Turbo Diesel, in other words indirect injection (slow preheating before starting) so I can run at 30% oil like all diesel (all engines combined, 30% in hievr and 50% in summer).
I do not choose the dual fuel kit because I like to be wild and it's been over 5 years.
I have a bosch injection (bosch pump) so I can drive 50% without changes in winter, and 75% in summer.
it turns out that my car has its injectors at 175 bars of origin, it takes 180 mini to start well on 100% oil, impeccable! otherwise you have to overstar.
so I just added a pre-wash pump just after the diesel fuel filter, and an electric heater just before the diesel fuel filter.
I am 100% all year round and between 80 and 90% in winter depending on the T ° C ...
my case (like that of many others) is mentioned on my site:
http://www.nrjrealiste.fr/oil/mono.html
otherwise the twin tank kit is here:
http://www.nrjrealiste.fr/oil/kit.html
see also the other chapters ;-)
--------------------
for the pantone I have not yet installed it on my car, I must already finish the tests on my mower but there I am in house work! can't do everything ;-)
but I plan to take inspiration from what the guy is doing here:
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/quanthommesuite/aut6peug405.htm
well to you!
my car is a Turbo Diesel, in other words indirect injection (slow preheating before starting) so I can run at 30% oil like all diesel (all engines combined, 30% in hievr and 50% in summer).
I do not choose the dual fuel kit because I like to be wild and it's been over 5 years.
I have a bosch injection (bosch pump) so I can drive 50% without changes in winter, and 75% in summer.
it turns out that my car has its injectors at 175 bars of origin, it takes 180 mini to start well on 100% oil, impeccable! otherwise you have to overstar.
so I just added a pre-wash pump just after the diesel fuel filter, and an electric heater just before the diesel fuel filter.
I am 100% all year round and between 80 and 90% in winter depending on the T ° C ...
my case (like that of many others) is mentioned on my site:
http://www.nrjrealiste.fr/oil/mono.html
otherwise the twin tank kit is here:
http://www.nrjrealiste.fr/oil/kit.html
see also the other chapters ;-)
--------------------
for the pantone I have not yet installed it on my car, I must already finish the tests on my mower but there I am in house work! can't do everything ;-)
but I plan to take inspiration from what the guy is doing here:
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/quanthommesuite/aut6peug405.htm
well to you!
0 x
so of course, when I was 100% and the next cold day!
but by dint of preheating it goes!
good to avoid the bicarbruation kit.
but when I'm 80% no worries. (I'm talking about very cold).
otherwise by dint of preheating it goes after a while, you need good candles and a battery ok, which is not a problem.
if you want it is not so much the tank which counts, but the fuel loop which is from the tank, which goes to the engine, and which returns there!
how it goes: preheating the candles, the booster pump begins to bring the purée to the diesel filter, the electric reheater begins to reheat the latter, and already s the first turns of the belt, everything that comes out of the injection pump + injector surplus is HOT: this happens in the tank, right next to the orifice that returns to the engine: so the hot returns direct, while it gradually heats the tank.
here is the technique! well the start is sometimes a little bumpy, but I do not have a red light for a while, the engine chuaffe well after a few minutes everything is ok.
I set my idle cold to 1500 rpm, the hot to 950.
otherwise there is the dual fuel kit which is + easy to use, but more expensive too! -)
I hope I have had my water injections by this summer!
but by dint of preheating it goes!
good to avoid the bicarbruation kit.
but when I'm 80% no worries. (I'm talking about very cold).
otherwise by dint of preheating it goes after a while, you need good candles and a battery ok, which is not a problem.
if you want it is not so much the tank which counts, but the fuel loop which is from the tank, which goes to the engine, and which returns there!
how it goes: preheating the candles, the booster pump begins to bring the purée to the diesel filter, the electric reheater begins to reheat the latter, and already s the first turns of the belt, everything that comes out of the injection pump + injector surplus is HOT: this happens in the tank, right next to the orifice that returns to the engine: so the hot returns direct, while it gradually heats the tank.
here is the technique! well the start is sometimes a little bumpy, but I do not have a red light for a while, the engine chuaffe well after a few minutes everything is ok.
I set my idle cold to 1500 rpm, the hot to 950.
otherwise there is the dual fuel kit which is + easy to use, but more expensive too! -)
I hope I have had my water injections by this summer!
0 x
Hello Jonule
The ideal is to place the Reed switch in the middle of the tank, it is the least disturbed place for the level when it heckles. The nice thing about this Reed is that you can flip the float (which contains the magnet) on itself. We can therefore have a choice of contact passing or cut on the stop.
A+
jonule wrote:ok, if not you could make a piti scheme please Flytox, for the level scabbard? If I understood correctly, put it in a small corner of the container so that the surface of the liquid does not have the same incidence? I don't get it for the sprinkler and the vent ...
The ideal is to place the Reed switch in the middle of the tank, it is the least disturbed place for the level when it heckles. The nice thing about this Reed is that you can flip the float (which contains the magnet) on itself. We can therefore have a choice of contact passing or cut on the stop.
A+
0 x
Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
Hello,
I looked to recover a booster pump, BMW VDO pregavage pump, FACET pre-booster pump, ...
What do you use as a pump to collect it on the scrap yard?
in order not to damage the PI, did you mount it in parallel with non-return valve after the filter and before the loop in parallel or in series with return to the tank by the surplus injector?
are non-return valves mandatory for serial installation?
A+
I looked to recover a booster pump, BMW VDO pregavage pump, FACET pre-booster pump, ...
What do you use as a pump to collect it on the scrap yard?
in order not to damage the PI, did you mount it in parallel with non-return valve after the filter and before the loop in parallel or in series with return to the tank by the surplus injector?
are non-return valves mandatory for serial installation?
A+
0 x
Hello,
if you want we can open another topic in the right section ;-)
especially to know which vehicle etc ...
the facet I buy it on the internet aeden.fr lack of better and cheaper.
otherwise there is US but bulk purchase otherwise shipping costs.
so as not to damage the PI is precisely the facet! it relieves in carbohydrate feeding (+ viscous), hence the name pre-wash ;-) no problem since 5 years.
no I do not loop my circuit with hot return of the PI + surplus inejcteurs, I return the whole tank that reinjects into the engine, and warms the tank ... so in series if I am you. no flap required ;-)
if you want we can open another topic in the right section ;-)
especially to know which vehicle etc ...
the facet I buy it on the internet aeden.fr lack of better and cheaper.
otherwise there is US but bulk purchase otherwise shipping costs.
so as not to damage the PI is precisely the facet! it relieves in carbohydrate feeding (+ viscous), hence the name pre-wash ;-) no problem since 5 years.
no I do not loop my circuit with hot return of the PI + surplus inejcteurs, I return the whole tank that reinjects into the engine, and warms the tank ... so in series if I am you. no flap required ;-)
0 x
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