How to enslave circulator with the boiler and thermostat

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
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elephant
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by elephant » 08/01/12, 18:10

I realized this montage successfully on the old boiler that fitted the house that I left at the end of June.

I used a DOLD IK7817N universal timer.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?embedded ... 200_Df.pdf

(40 € wholesale price at Rexel, if my memories are good)

set to 15 minutes, just to pump the heat stored in the boiler.

I think this type of timer is more reliable and more soup to use than a staircase timer.

If a circulator is 100 Watts, and there are 8760 hours per year, the saving is of the order of 600 KWh / year on the conso of the circulator: it's worth it
(This figure is only valid if we were not used to completely disconnect the machine in summer, which was my case before I realized that I was unnecessarily and shamefully enriching the CEO of Electrabel)

I suppose we also gain over the life of bearings and jams

Now I have a Saint Roch doing the job alone.

However, I noticed that in the summer, it was cost-effective to mount the boiler thermostat on a clock and prevent it from reheating between 10h and 3h.
Gain: about 0,1 to 0,15 m³ GN / 24 hours.
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Philippe Schutt
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by Philippe Schutt » 08/01/12, 19:02

Why not, it's the same.

here is the connection diagram:

https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... 9dzZZq.pdf
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by dedeleco » 08/01/12, 19:41

If a circulator is 100 Watts, and there are 8760 hours per year, the saving is of the order of 600 KWh / year on the conso of the circulator: it's worth it

We earn much more KWh, if the boiler at rest is less hot than the house, garage less than 10 ° C, as at home in winter, by not cooling the house with a very cold water circulating in the radiators, very long during the rest of the cold boiler, especially in spring and autumn !!
At my heart, 10 30% of the heat consumed by the boiler!
Much more than the consumption of the circulator.

All the more reason to stop the circulator with a thermostat, which stops the circulation of too cold water and will cool the house instead of heating it. The cooling time is variable according to the conditions, outside temperature, and therefore the thermostat adapts this time spontaneously, unlike the fixed timer.

Especially true for old houses, still not well insulated, where you have to be careful not to be fooled by boilers designed for well-insulated houses with continuous operation.
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elephant
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by elephant » 09/01/12, 10:49

The idea is to dig, but where to put this thermostat to not overheat the boiler body?

Or, set up an OR function

cold water + burner lit: circulation ON
cold water + burner off: circulation OFF
hot water + burner on: traffic ON
hot water + burner off: circulation ON

?
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by the middle » 09/01/12, 11:32

At home, I made the simplest.
The bulb of the thermostat is placed just at the exit of the boiler.
It operates directly and simply the circulator.
It's not the best, but it works.Why it's not perfect, simply, you have to wait until the thermal conductivity is done, and it takes time, the boiler goes up in temp and then boom, the circulator is starts when the boiler is at + -50 degree..heavy heat.
So, the best thing is that the circulator starts when the burner starts,
Shutdown of the circulator should be done when the water temp is more or less at 30 degree; not lower, because in summer it may start alone because of the ambient temperature.
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by the middle » 09/01/12, 11:38

I forgot to say:
DD raised a big reality, in the case of the circulator that turns 24h on 24.
If the boiler is located in a cold room, if the pipes pass through cold areas, the radiators rightly give the impression of cold, even more than an impression.
So, it is best to stop the circulator when the water temperature is low.
Last little detail, some old circulators are greedy in electricity ... (to change if this is the case).
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by elephant » 09/01/12, 12:00

The right thing is what I say: it takes a function OR: the circulator must absolutely follow the operation of the burner and //, an aquastat that stops below 30 °,
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by the middle » 09/01/12, 12:13

elephant wrote:The right thing is what I say: it takes a function OR: the circulator must absolutely follow the operation of the burner and //, an aquastat that stops below 30 °,

The whole thing is to understand each other :D
Yes, 100% in agreement with you
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by dedeleco » 09/01/12, 12:39

where to put this thermostat so as not to overheat the boiler body?

Beside the sensor (bulb or other) of the internal thermostat of the boiler that still exists, otherwise, given the serious danger, to mount urgently.
This sensor is usually located at the location that heats the fastest near the outlet in the boiler.
The internal thermostat prevents overheating by stopping the heating if the internal T goes up too much, whatever the T of the water, circulating or not.
It is easy to slide the bulb into the insulation wool of the boiler until this sensor of the internal thermostat of the boiler.

What strikes me is that beautiful boilers can have such huge incredible blunders!

Also check this boiler in its interior.
It is good to double the internal safety of the boiler by another adjustable independent thermostat, as I already explained.

If I had such a machine at home, the installer would be yelling at the installation and summing correct.
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by owen » 09/01/12, 21:18

nice lejustemilieu.

I will order the thermostat on Conrad and try to apply it on the piping.

If I can not do it, I'll let you know.

thank you for all the info.

A small question why the circulator is powered on a circuit breaker and not by an 220v plug. Why ?
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