To answer scientifically, you need a lot more detailed information, thickness of the vacuum, connection at its base with the ground and outside, above and below!
The hygrometry can be very complex, if one does not understand physics well, condensation evaporation (see wikipedia all that there is on dew point, in English too, if not errors, even by pros who often do not analyze in scientists, but repeat lessons and habits, without fully understanding the validity conditions, which depend on the local climate !!
For example airing can be very good as much as a cowhouse, depending on the conditions !!!
See my answers on energy saving on similar subjects !!
Clearly you have not evaluated your purchase and renovation with the care and intensity necessary to avoid surprises and excessive spending !!
Putting triple glazing to stop the drafts of the frames instead of simple inexpensive rubber bands, for a house with large heat losses, is similar to crushing a fly or a nut, with a hammer hammer, in my opinion! !
To put an external insulation of 4cm only, is absurd.
Putting triple glazing without precise consistency with high-performance exterior insulation (10 to 20cm) is also wasteful.
I tell you my reactions that I have for my personal homes.
A big difficulty is that the pros give advice often inconsistent, seeking to sell expensive and not your energy savings !!
I repeat, as for me, the most economical, in investment, is to burn wood and free vegetables abandoned everywhere in the neighborhood, (the one burned by my neighbors in the open air and who smoke for days, and old windfall never absorbed , because too expensive, a tree to cut down at 800 €, while I make my brain work, to find how to do it by hand without the risks, which I see taken by unconscious professional lumberjacks), dried in summer, a little in addition to good health !!
Isolation of an old large house in Belgium
A site to read and assimilate from top to bottom to better locate:
http://conseils.xpair.com/consulter_sav ... n-bbc.htm&
http://conseils.xpair.com/consulter_sav ... 4.htm#1750
http://annuaire.xpair.com/img/savoirfai ... FS_ITE.pdf
http://conseils.xpair.com/consulter_sav ... n-bbc.htm&
http://conseils.xpair.com/consulter_sav ... 4.htm#1750
http://annuaire.xpair.com/img/savoirfai ... FS_ITE.pdf
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dedeleco,
the data I need to assess the building according to you
for each wall face:
1) length,
2) height,
3) thickness of each wall face. type of materials.
4) if empty exists -> resume thickness
5) the size of the windows must also be included?
6) is it necessary to take the dimensions of each room -> staircase, cellar, dimension of the chimneys?
did i forget something?
owen
the data I need to assess the building according to you
for each wall face:
1) length,
2) height,
3) thickness of each wall face. type of materials.
4) if empty exists -> resume thickness
5) the size of the windows must also be included?
6) is it necessary to take the dimensions of each room -> staircase, cellar, dimension of the chimneys?
did i forget something?
owen
0 x
The smallest cm that you put in the exterior insulation of your house is good. Sometimes with 2 or 3 cm of insulation you can already divide by 2 the energy losses for the insulated wall. In addition, the wall will have a higher T °, and therefore less discomfort.
It is, moreover, more logical to put 10 to 15 cm of insulation on the walls by having put a triple glazing (but we do what we can not always what we want).
However, look at the cost of insulation from the outside and the additional cost to put more insulation to compare with what you can gain with this surplus.
Do you lower the temperature at night and during the daytime absence?
Do you have thermostatic valves?
Is it possible to heat only a certain living room on the ground floor? And why not heat them with a stove or other ..?
Have you thought about changing your house? Finally I suppose if you come to ask questions here it's that you don't really want to change ...
You said you wanted to put a heating floor via solar ... and why not an insulating floor simply (via the ceiling of the cellars it is simpler)
And solar won't heat your house in winter but can already heat your DHW in summer for a much lower cost!
It is, moreover, more logical to put 10 to 15 cm of insulation on the walls by having put a triple glazing (but we do what we can not always what we want).
However, look at the cost of insulation from the outside and the additional cost to put more insulation to compare with what you can gain with this surplus.
Do you lower the temperature at night and during the daytime absence?
Do you have thermostatic valves?
Is it possible to heat only a certain living room on the ground floor? And why not heat them with a stove or other ..?
Have you thought about changing your house? Finally I suppose if you come to ask questions here it's that you don't really want to change ...
You said you wanted to put a heating floor via solar ... and why not an insulating floor simply (via the ceiling of the cellars it is simpler)
And solar won't heat your house in winter but can already heat your DHW in summer for a much lower cost!
0 x
The smallest cm that you put in the exterior insulation of your house is good. Sometimes with 2 or 3 cm of insulation you can already divide by 2 the energy losses for the insulated wall. In addition, the wall will have a higher T °, and therefore less discomfort.
That's what I think. But as you say, we don't always do what we want. The maximum quantity without breaking the walls at home, varies from 4cm to 6cm outdoors.
I have thermostatic valves to all the radiators. and a programmable thermostat, day and night.
Change houses, certainly not. We feel good there. it is the heat stroke which is the black point, not the house.
Floor heating via solar, insulating floor simply, I'm not sure. I have to do the math
0 x
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- Econologue expert
- posts: 4075
- Registration: 12/01/07, 08:18
- x 4
-
- Econologue expert
- posts: 4075
- Registration: 12/01/07, 08:18
- x 4
Following the different readings, another important criterion in the thermal performance of the building is ventilation.
The VMC double flow is interesting because it allows to extract the stale humid air from the building to recover these calories to transfer it to the new incoming air.
What are the ventilation requirements for an old house?
The VMC double flow is interesting because it allows to extract the stale humid air from the building to recover these calories to transfer it to the new incoming air.
What are the ventilation requirements for an old house?
0 x
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