Creation and maintenance of an orchard

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
paysan.bio
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by paysan.bio » 01/12/17, 16:19

Did67 wrote:View:



Filmed early September - age 3. "Prima" and "Sunflower" are varieties.


I don't speak the language.
he says if it is self-fertile or if a male female fertilization or a fertilization between two varieties is necessary?
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sicetaitsimple
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by sicetaitsimple » 01/12/17, 17:15

Paysan.bio wrote: I don't speak the language.
he says if it is self-fertile or if a male female fertilization or a fertilization between two varieties is necessary?


Same handicap and same question!
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by Lolounette » 01/12/17, 18:04

tree that I did not know at all, I did some research and there are quite a few cultivars that are apparently self-fertile ...

Besides the fruits that are said to be delicious (mixture of mango, banana, custard, caramel) it is apparently free from diseases and parasites and is well enough for the size from what I read. By cons very long to start, 1st fruit not before 5 anise after planting ...

It would tell me to try, you still have to find it and at a price not too exorbitant! (seen online at more than 50 € the 30cm plant in a 3 L pot: gloups!)
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Julienmos
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by Julienmos » 01/12/17, 18:08

sicetaitsimple wrote:Well, more seriously, she offers me in the quarantine of trees two medlar trees. I looked on the net, it tells me what it looks like, but it doesn't tell me what it tastes like! Anyone know? Its good?


it is eaten blet, must love, I like it. In my local Germanic dialect, we called them "Hundsärsche" (dog asses) :D
When I was a kid (a long time ago, although ... I stayed a little) : Lol: we knew where to find it on a few trees in old orchards around the village. When you pick it is hard, to ripen it you put it in ... hay!
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bobbysolo67
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by bobbysolo67 » 01/12/17, 18:47

Paysan.bio wrote:Filmed early September - age 3. "Prima" and "Sunflower" are varieties.


I don't speak the language.
he says if it is self-fertile or if it requires male to female fertilization or fertilization between two varieties? [/ quote]

Here is the translation, if that can help you:
Our PawPaw varieties
The fruits of the PawPaws also gave them their name. Considering that "paw" in English means "paw" and you are looking at the fruits growing in bundles, you can see the outline of the paw of a dog or other predator. All of our legs are approximately 1 to 2 meters wide, but their height varies.
    The Sunflower is between 1,5 and 3 m tall and ripens relatively early in September. The advantage is that it is self-fertile. Its pulp is very aromatic and melting.
    The Prima variety is self-fertile, it is not very tall with up to 2,5 meters and matures in October. The pulp is soft and has no fibers.
    The giant PawPaw Shenandoah is a non-self-sufficient strain from the breeder Neal Peterson. The tree is 2 to 3,5 meters high and must be planted with another species of PawPaw. The fruit ripening period lasts from the beginning to mid-October. The honey yellow pulp has a very sweet and exotic taste and makes Shenandoah.
    Finally, you will find in the garden shop Lubera the variety KSU Atwood, which is between 2 and 3 meters high. It is also self-fertile, but has a delicious mango flavor. She was raised by Kentucky State University.

Planting and planting in PauPau
Lubera PawPaw are delivered as seedlings in containers and can be planted at any time without frost. If planting in spring takes place by April at the latest, growth will start in the year of planting. If planted later, noticeable growth begins the following year.
The location of the Paw Paw is very sunny. The soil should be slightly acid to neutral, the pH is therefore 5,5 to 7. The soil structure is deep, the humus and moderately heavy, waterlogging should be avoided.
Indian bananas can be planted nearby because it has a tall, oval crown. If you have a lot of space, Asimina can also be used as a cover plant. However, a minimum distance of 100 cm should be maintained. Nor does it tolerate the size of the hedges of the Indian banana, otherwise flowering and fruiting will suffer.
The planting hole should be twice the volume of the root ball. The coarse and thorny roots are distributed in the planting hole, then filled with soil. You need to make sure that during the first few years, no plants or other plants grow under the Indian banana.
Despite their exoticism, the Indian banana is complete, that is to say. hardy at -28 ° C. In the second year after planting, in April or May, a slightly acidic fertilizer stressed by nitrogen. Indian bananas have iron chlorosis if the leaves appear pale yellow or very bright. If iron chlorosis is present, we recommend fertilizing with Frutilizer Instant Solution Fe during the growing season.
The care of the Indian banana
Large trees take time to anchor and connect to the new location. Therefore, you must be patient with the culture of PauPau. In the first years, it is even advisable to remove the attached fruits first, so that the tree has enough energy in growth and less in the fruit.

The Indian banana cut is not complicated. Competitive impulses are eliminated at the top to allow straight growth. In older trees, oversized branches can be cut off from the stem to encourage new growth. In principle, and especially during the planting of hedges, care must be taken that the fertile wood is not cut. PaPaw infuse and fruit on the annual wood. By cutting thus new growth should be cut only if it trees too large.

The fruit of Asimina triloba is harvested in autumn. For large, heavy fruits, you must first ensure that they do not become overripe. This is helped by the known pressure test of figs (Ficus carica), in which one presses carefully with the thumb and forefinger on the pulp. Ripe fruit can be eaten immediately or stored in the refrigerator for up to three weeks without the pulp becoming mushy.
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sicetaitsimple
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by sicetaitsimple » 01/12/17, 19:13

Julienmos wrote:
sicetaitsimple wrote:Well, more seriously, she offers me in the quarantine of trees two medlar trees. I looked on the net, it tells me what it looks like, but it doesn't tell me what it tastes like! Anyone know? Its good?


it is eaten blet, must love, I like it.


Blet you say Bof bof, a priori I like rather firm fruits .... And to the taste, does it sound like something more famous?
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sicetaitsimple
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by sicetaitsimple » 01/12/17, 19:17

Bobbysolo67 wrote:
Paysan.bio wrote:Filmed early September - age 3. "Prima" and "Sunflower" are varieties.


I don't speak the language.
he says if it is self-fertile or if a male female fertilization or a fertilization between two varieties is necessary?


Here is the translation, if that can help you:
[/ Quote]
The thank you box
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gek
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by gek » 01/12/17, 20:12

I believe there is an asiminier at the botanical garden of Strasbourg.
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olivier75
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by olivier75 » 01/12/17, 20:38

Hi,

The medlar gives the medlars the expression "for medlars", for not much. They are eaten raw after the first frosts, some kitchens. These are the last fruits with the sloes.
It is a beautiful tree, beautiful green leaves, beautiful frame, not very large, with pretty flowers, very easy, regular production, no diseases, only 2 varieties it seems to me the common one. we put one, two is a lot, today I will tend to put it in the hedge, there we can put several.

Olivier.
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olivier75
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Re: Creation and maintenance of an orchard




by olivier75 » 01/12/17, 21:02

Sicetaitsimple,

I insist on leaving you room for future implantations, and for that to decrease the spacings, especially in a sense, without it being like industrial orchards either, but online management seems to me simpler.
We must have 3000 m2 of orchard and keeping the original grid is not enough, at least not enough to implant new desires. This is also why I am starting a second orchard. Online, the spacing can be changed depending on the species, more for a walnut tree, less for medlar trees.

For the hedge, ours is natural, that is to say created by non-maintenance, pear, cherry, quetschiers, mirabelliers on the orchard side and sloes on the other.
I modify it by inlaying goji, blackberry, linden, amelanchiers, etc. I must create one to finish closing the land, the other 2000 m2 where I will also put edible varieties, even by their flowers like the acacia or their leaves like the lime tree.
And I take this opportunity to say that we can very well prune cherry and plum trees, even in hedges, even in hedge trimmers.
Olivier.
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