Definition of the "venturi" system
-
the joint
- I understand econologic
- posts: 63
- Registration: 07/03/07, 21:29
- Location: Pays de la Loire
- x 2
Hello everyone. I was wondering where to put the venturi on my pantone installation + water doping on my combi. I was thinking of putting it between the outlet of the reactor and the intake pipe in order to accelerate the flow of vapor, but given the tube is a copper tube of 14, how to make a venturi in such a small thing?
0 x
Hello
The venturi is placed in the air flow whether the downstream motor is in front of the butterfly or after the butterfly it is a dynamic pump which is used to suck in the reactor.
if possible, this should also serve as a regulator for the reactor, the more the downstream air motor the more it sucks in the reactor and the more water it drinks.
So if you place it above it acts as a regulator at low speeds it hardly sucks anything, at high speed it is functional
If you place it below in slow motion the suction is at its maximum
so too large and at high speed it does not suck much more
this last very simplistic way complicates the regulation and the idling, in general it is adjusted so that it is effective at a single regime and one closes the exit of the reactor at the slowed down ..
The simple way you enter below the carburetor with a small tube of 3 mm it makes too much water at idle but running at 100kmh it is acceptable at 130kmh it lacks water, but no need for venturi ..
Andre
The venturi is placed in the air flow whether the downstream motor is in front of the butterfly or after the butterfly it is a dynamic pump which is used to suck in the reactor.
if possible, this should also serve as a regulator for the reactor, the more the downstream air motor the more it sucks in the reactor and the more water it drinks.
So if you place it above it acts as a regulator at low speeds it hardly sucks anything, at high speed it is functional
If you place it below in slow motion the suction is at its maximum
so too large and at high speed it does not suck much more
this last very simplistic way complicates the regulation and the idling, in general it is adjusted so that it is effective at a single regime and one closes the exit of the reactor at the slowed down ..
The simple way you enter below the carburetor with a small tube of 3 mm it makes too much water at idle but running at 100kmh it is acceptable at 130kmh it lacks water, but no need for venturi ..
Andre
0 x
the join wrote:I was thinking of putting it between the outlet of the reactor and the intake pipe in order to accelerate the flow of vapor, but given the tube is a copper tube of 14, how to make a venturi in such a small thing?
Hello
it is not there that it is necessary it is in the ADM and the pricking of the reactor in the venturia (a little after the shrinking).
@+
0 x
Said the zebra, freeman (endangered breed)
This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
-
the joint
- I understand econologic
- posts: 63
- Registration: 07/03/07, 21:29
- Location: Pays de la Loire
- x 2
Ok thank you guys for lighting up my lantern which instantly touched the darkness !!! 
I understand better now.
The drawback is that I had made 2 tappings, one on each side of the intake pipe, as close to the cylinder heads as possible to minimize losses (on the 4 flat not far from 50 cm separates the carburetor intake valves)
This therefore implies 2 venturis.In addition these 2 venturis were therefore located under the throttle valve of the carburetor which is not top for the regulation and the idling of the engine according to you André.
In fact if I understood correctly with this positioning of the venturis below the butterfly, the idle is much too high due to the depression in the intake pipe which sucks hard through the reactor.
But can we not manage this phenomenon thanks to solenoid valves which would allow to measure the arrival of steam from the dashboard?
Or on the contrary do you think that I am complicating myself and that I should simply make a pricking in my air filter sleeve with a venturi?
Thank you to all
I understand better now.
The drawback is that I had made 2 tappings, one on each side of the intake pipe, as close to the cylinder heads as possible to minimize losses (on the 4 flat not far from 50 cm separates the carburetor intake valves)
This therefore implies 2 venturis.In addition these 2 venturis were therefore located under the throttle valve of the carburetor which is not top for the regulation and the idling of the engine according to you André.
In fact if I understood correctly with this positioning of the venturis below the butterfly, the idle is much too high due to the depression in the intake pipe which sucks hard through the reactor.
But can we not manage this phenomenon thanks to solenoid valves which would allow to measure the arrival of steam from the dashboard?
Or on the contrary do you think that I am complicating myself and that I should simply make a pricking in my air filter sleeve with a venturi?
Thank you to all
0 x
Hi join
We use the venturi on diesel engines by integrating a kind of double cones in the intake tuayu.
It serves to accelerate the air just at the pitch so that the steam coming from the reactor is drawn from it with good force.
On Diesel experts agree that it takes 700mm of suction water column for it to work well.
On gasoline engine I got 4000mm of water column by installing the system as you want to do it but with only one picage.
Which means the venturi is useless on your engine.
Avoid adding unnecessary things that will waste your time.
I had made a venturi in the manifold of my super 5. It significantly improved the stability of the suction in the reactor but did not improve the suction force.
Make a single pitch well placed just under your carburetor and well centered you will see that it will work as well and in a simpler way.
The venturi would be useful if you pricked the reactor before the air filter of your fuel.
We use the venturi on diesel engines by integrating a kind of double cones in the intake tuayu.
It serves to accelerate the air just at the pitch so that the steam coming from the reactor is drawn from it with good force.
On Diesel experts agree that it takes 700mm of suction water column for it to work well.
On gasoline engine I got 4000mm of water column by installing the system as you want to do it but with only one picage.
Which means the venturi is useless on your engine.
Avoid adding unnecessary things that will waste your time.
I had made a venturi in the manifold of my super 5. It significantly improved the stability of the suction in the reactor but did not improve the suction force.
Make a single pitch well placed just under your carburetor and well centered you will see that it will work as well and in a simpler way.
The venturi would be useful if you pricked the reactor before the air filter of your fuel.
0 x
-
the joint
- I understand econologic
- posts: 63
- Registration: 07/03/07, 21:29
- Location: Pays de la Loire
- x 2
Hi Pitmix, thank you for your answer it is always a pleasure to read you.
Indeed I believe that I will go to the simplest. On the other hand, I intended to make my stitching just above the carburetor, in the elbow of the air filter (it's easier to stitch in the rubber than in the steel). In addition, as André explained, the tapping under the carburetor requires a reactor which runs at full speed because of the depression. As we say around my house: "I tatte myself"
Indeed I believe that I will go to the simplest. On the other hand, I intended to make my stitching just above the carburetor, in the elbow of the air filter (it's easier to stitch in the rubber than in the steel). In addition, as André explained, the tapping under the carburetor requires a reactor which runs at full speed because of the depression. As we say around my house: "I tatte myself"
0 x
Here
In this case you will be forced to install a venturi because otherwise there will be no vacuum in your reactor.
Unlike the diesel engine in the rubber line there is very little suction.
In reality on a petrol engine it would almost be necessary to make the reactor outlet integrated in the venturi of the carburetor.
A bit like the tube of the recovery pump.
So think it over well, either you manage to isolate your reactor at a slow speed (no water and no air) and you connect it under the carburetor.
In this case you will be sure to have a very high speed of the fluids in your reactor and a depletion of the mixture.
Either you connect it in the rubber tube of the air filter with a venturi (no need to isolate water and air at idle) but on the other hand you will not have a very strong suction.
On my R5 by doing like this I noticed a drop in performance, a drop in engine noise (very muffled sound), and very flexible operation.
I felt like I was driving a limousine (not the cow )
The problem is that the reduction in the supply of air to the engine must be accompanied by a reduction in the supply of petrol to be beneficial to consumption.
Otherwise it is an increase in the guaranteed consumption.
At the moment on my car I am looking for the appropriate nozzle to deplete the mixture while avoiding degrading the functioning of the engine.
2 point less on the sprinklers is already a lot.
Start looking for smaller jets for your fuel, it's not easy to find.
In this case you will be forced to install a venturi because otherwise there will be no vacuum in your reactor.
Unlike the diesel engine in the rubber line there is very little suction.
In reality on a petrol engine it would almost be necessary to make the reactor outlet integrated in the venturi of the carburetor.
A bit like the tube of the recovery pump.
So think it over well, either you manage to isolate your reactor at a slow speed (no water and no air) and you connect it under the carburetor.
In this case you will be sure to have a very high speed of the fluids in your reactor and a depletion of the mixture.
Either you connect it in the rubber tube of the air filter with a venturi (no need to isolate water and air at idle) but on the other hand you will not have a very strong suction.
On my R5 by doing like this I noticed a drop in performance, a drop in engine noise (very muffled sound), and very flexible operation.
I felt like I was driving a limousine (not the cow
)
The problem is that the reduction in the supply of air to the engine must be accompanied by a reduction in the supply of petrol to be beneficial to consumption.
Otherwise it is an increase in the guaranteed consumption.
At the moment on my car I am looking for the appropriate nozzle to deplete the mixture while avoiding degrading the functioning of the engine.
2 point less on the sprinklers is already a lot.
Start looking for smaller jets for your fuel, it's not easy to find.
0 x
For the carburetors, a mechanic gave me the following combination. He took a normal size nozzle, put it back in the tin and then had it drilled at the dimension that suited him. He did this for outboard motors that are almost as fuel efficient as mower motors. 
when he had no one on hand to pierce it, he managed to find a steel wire of the diameter that suited him, drowned it in tin and then tore it off. It seems surprising to me to be able to tear off a welded wire like this, but he told me I could do it.
Here it can help you pit ...
when he had no one on hand to pierce it, he managed to find a steel wire of the diameter that suited him, drowned it in tin and then tore it off. It seems surprising to me to be able to tear off a welded wire like this, but he told me I could do it.
Here it can help you pit ...
0 x
--
Patience is a tree whose root is bitter, and whose fruits are very sweet.
Patience is a tree whose root is bitter, and whose fruits are very sweet.
-
the joint
- I understand econologic
- posts: 63
- Registration: 07/03/07, 21:29
- Location: Pays de la Loire
- x 2
Thanks guys. I think I'm going to make my stitching under the fuel. This will save me from changing the nozzle (I prefer to tackle only one problem at a time 
) This will allow me to carry out the first tests by manually adjusting my valves once the engine is warm.
In this perspective of isolating the engine at idle, for a practical system it will be necessary to be able to operate them from the dashboard. I had thought of using some sort of solenoid valves which would be grafted onto the tubes. However I never had one and I don't really see how it works. Anyone ever used it? Are there more suitable models than others? or do you know other means than solenoid valves? I had thought of a power steering motor acting on several cylinders .....
) This will allow me to carry out the first tests by manually adjusting my valves once the engine is warm.
In this perspective of isolating the engine at idle, for a practical system it will be necessary to be able to operate them from the dashboard. I had thought of using some sort of solenoid valves which would be grafted onto the tubes. However I never had one and I don't really see how it works. Anyone ever used it? Are there more suitable models than others? or do you know other means than solenoid valves? I had thought of a power steering motor acting on several cylinders .....
0 x
Back to "Water injection in the engines: the assembly and experimentation"
Who is online ?
Users browsing this forum : No registered users and 71 guests