Wall corner insulation with glass wool

[green]

It's not the same thing ? as stated here:
http://www.avenir-investir.fr/blog/?p=38
I intend to install something totally hermetic, but I have to see what my supplier offers me.

[Alain G]

Look on the site under "view from the outside"

http://trucconstruction.com/novoclimat.html

This is quoted: "The air barrier, it is a resistant paper, which allows the extraction of humidity by preventing water and wind from penetrating."


And for the vapor barrier under "wall":

http://trucconstruction.com/novoclimat.html

"Subsequently, a vapor barrier will be extended on the interior side to prevent the humidity of the house from penetrating into the structures of the wall and the wool, otherwise when the humidity comes into contact with the cold, the wool will lose its much of its insulating effectiveness and moisture will turn to water or frost on the wall structure."

No need to breathe a simple semi-transparent plastic construction film can do the job!

[green]

Look on the site under "view from the outside"

http://trucconstruction.com/novoclimat.html

This is quoted: "The air barrier, it is a resistant paper, which allows the extraction of humidity by preventing water and wind from penetrating."

I don't know if this is what it is for me, because there must be no moisture in my glass wool with the vapor barrier behind the BA13.

And for the vapor barrier under "wall":

http://trucconstruction.com/novoclimat.html

"Subsequently, a vapor barrier will be extended on the interior side to prevent the humidity of the house from penetrating into the structures of the wall and the wool, otherwise when the humidity comes into contact with the cold, the wool will lose its much of its insulating effectiveness and moisture will turn to water or frost on the wall structure.

I don't understand the point of putting on one side (outside) a vapor barrier that lets out the moisture that can't get in on the other (inside)!!!

No need to breathe a simple semi-transparent plastic construction film can do the job!

It is a material of this kind that I am thinking of posing.
Goods.

[bidouille23]

good evening,

In France since can you are anyway obliged to add a PV OR FV united and connect with an overlap of at least 10 cm. stick around and to the frame if you can not tape it.

Roofing uncoated wool panels cost more than coated lol.

In the case of a vapor brake have lacerated the craft to avoid condensation between fv and craft maybe it would be more prudent also to do it in case of PV??? there I ask myself an evening glue and to you too .


For the Gypsum facing here it's fermacell I say super rolls rolls rolls

and for the counter lathing also rolls and takes it to the higher thickness of the sheaths and or cables that you might have to pass like that you avoid the maximum perforations of PV or Fv ;) .

And the rain shield sale here we call it that, you will find it for the roof and for the wooden frame, in general there is pv film or pallient in your case;), or if you are rich than you have time and a lot of patience and meticulousness so you can apply IMR (multi layer reflector insulation) knowing that the CSTB has revoked their approval and that there remains a compliant break mode either by creating a blade of stagnant air in front of the IMR, lol. These are the insulation that advertised like "5 mm replaces 20 cm of glass wool" you will notice since there is no longer a mark on it except on the end of stock;).

In your case if you are rich you can do it, when you see the price you will want less ;) . otherwise you can take tri-iso, basically you have aluminum and bubble wrap lol with sometimes sheets of cotton wadding or other, like cotton in insulation, we're talking about it not but it also exists and it has these qualities;) ISOA in fact if I'm not mistaken.


Okay let's go to the pictures;)


here home




1772



the old frame with my homemade formwork, here we have a rain shield under the roof so I didn't put HDP wood wool panels, we'll see it better on the next photo for the rest



here more ready have way well in dark at the bottom of the battens the rafters, it is on them that I come to put HDP panels then waterproofing with mastic against all the places of arrival of the panels.

I adapted a technique recommended by Homatherm for insulated farmhouses in cold roofs.
between trusses, it suffices to put cleats at the bottom to screw the HDP panels there.





So have glue in the front corners of against batten here the glue in yellow under the FV, and it is against a refurbished farm of course seen the color;).



Have tape everything, here the wall will be coated with hemp and lime and the lining in Gypsum, which will give us a perfect cohesion between hemp stone and lime and gypsum, and have covered the vapor brake under the coating, and have put some special tape before applying the coating




suddenly have a vapor brake with a counter lathing,





To finish before the injection, here the right feet have been passed with LDV panels GR32 ep 100 and the rest will be injected crawling at 55 kg/m3 ep 25 cm and blown on the small part of the ceiling over 30 centimeters

I have already tried the same thing and it works fine.



well I hope it's clearer with photos

bye and good night lol

[Alain G]

hack

Nice work!

In the case of ceilings, we install tongue-and-groove foam panels directly on the roof beams and then the lathing to avoid thermal bridges, only nails or screws communicate with the wood.


For the walls

This kind of waterproof stone wall cannot be insulated in the same way as we do on modern constructions because no air intake is provided between the insulation and the stone wall, on our modern brick walls, we let's leave all three bricks a joint without mortar and a slat is vertically behind to promote ventilation, for the rest it is the same wall technique with insulation as on the other houses with different exterior wall parrages.

[green]

For the under slopes, the rain screen under the tiles is hs and the roofers will intervene "during the year" to change it.
To protect my insulation, under the rafters and between the purlins, I am going to put a well glued and airtight PV. Under this PV, 25 cm of LdV then re PV then air gap then BA13.
I saw with the roofers, they will put an OSB on the rafters, then a rain screen then battens then tiles.
They assured me that it is airtight.
So, between the OSB and my PV under roof, there will be a space the thickness of the rafters, that is to say 10 cm.
Is that a cold roof?

[bidouille23]

Hello ,


OSB ???? what density ?? and suddenly good courage to find the permeance according to the a priori signs there would be waterproof and less waterproof, Alain M CANADIn ti you must be able to help us on this one the osb it comes from you or from your neighbors amerloc;) right?

two PV ???? you did not listen well we tell you to put only one pv sinnon you are not going at all promotes the migration of water and water vapor, it should even be condensed if all is well;).

In order from inside to outside:

BA or FERMACELL it is fire resistant 30min the plate of 12.5, 15min plasterboard ba 13, it is heavy so sound-absorbing as desired for you it is great, it is directly "paintable" without undercoat and finally the seal no tape to do (as much to say that the dif of the starting price you find it on the bands and the paint;).

so behind the lining, against slats

vapor barrier or vapor barrier,

secondary frame (in the photos are the rails),

primary framework (in my case, the trusses or the battens which form the boxes with the lines)


and therefore insulation behind the steam brake and if there is craft (which there will be no doubt) you put a cutter blow to create ventilation hisoitre that the active steam brake is the one you paused and not the craft;).


If you redo your rain shield in the order of a rain shield against batten or batten or "osb" more expensive than battens for tiles (well I imagine now I am not your roofer, I did not know this technique, for the zinc yes but not for the tiles I will look at it more ready for my culture thank you ) .

Alain it's good that you tell me about your brick walls because I have a concrete gable and I count (be careful this is experiemental fred lol) let the holes between the breeze blocks see to redo some, so anyway put the vapor barrier together with all the other walls.

Knowing that on the outside of the gable there will be exterior insulation with a nice vertical cladding with overlap (in Douglas of course) it's pretty and cheap and not boring and it works well (here in Brittany anyway lol).
What makes that there will normally be migration of the vapor from the interior to the exterior which you think, and what do you think of elsewhere, in any case it is a gable to bring back in concrete? I find a viable and lasting solution arff.

Verdes links the definition (it may not be clear since it's me who gave it lol I understand)

so the cold roof the air would pass under your os to ventilate the bottom of the farmhouse,
in a warm roof at the bottom of the farmhouses you have the rain barrier film;)
it is clearer ?? do not be at worst i will make a drawing.

and then a microperfore pv on an OSB can be waterproof I don't really see the thing there ????

do a drawing because there is something wrong i think serious

see you

[Obamot]

Ben Obamot!

Just because this kind of construction is new to you doesn't mean it's not good,

Tsss... but that's not what I said, read Alain again:

More this is by far one of the most serious builds I have seen so far,

all Novoclimat manufacturing materials are materials that have existed for more than 40 years except for the Flexfoil which dates from 17 years, they have all held up very well over time, the polyurethane foam does not stand the sun, ditto for the rigid polystyrene panels but does not disintegrate in the shade

it is true that my sample was not exposed to the sun, but to the light (in the North) as soon as I have a moment I will go and take a piece in a partition in total darkness... to see!

and you can always laugh to put it under the cement slab because it's a 30-year practice with no apparent problem. Of course we must condition the surface below with a good layer of sand.

When you've said it all... ...so you can see that my remarks were well-founded (only I didn't have all the elements).

The oven needs controlled ventilation, will I repeat it many more times!

Ok, same as for Minérgie-P

Anyway we consume less for the same surface with a much colder climate!

You mean that you are the "best";))))

Edit: Sorry I confused Isover with Flexfoil

...oh well no, you are sometimes mistaken

Bidouille, that's frankly done a little hard: ;)



hmm!

[Obamot]

I intend to install something totally hermetic, but I have to see what my supplier offers me.

Verdes is not necessarily essential, go for a passive house... You have to take it easy with the maximum insulation coefficient for those who are not 100%... It's up to you, but it's on a case-by-case basis.

[dedeleco]

All beautiful, but during gusts of wind of more than 100Km/h, the beautiful sealing risks ending up with holes inevitably ????

Moreover, think about radon from these stones of granite type which require a well studied ventilation, otherwise it accumulates and will penetrate concentrated in the habitable rooms to end up in your lungs!!

See the radon specialists, for valuable advice and mistakes not to make!!