Wall corner insulation with glass wool

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
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by green » 05/02/11, 19:49

As there are pros here, I will finally have a pro version on the kraft of glass wool:
Is it an effective vapor barrier or is it just paper to stiffen the rolls / panels?
In my case, the room will be slightly overpressure, with waterproof film between the wall and the insulation.
Do I need to add another vapor barrier between the insulation and the plasterboards?
Thank you
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by Alain G » 05/02/11, 20:06

Hello Verdes!

As we have different terms for the same products, if you can put a link to the product you are talking about, that would be great!

Since you are overpressure, it is absolutely necessary to seal to avoid the hot and humid air from going into the insulation, it can be done with a polythene film directly on the wool and you add a fodder (wooden slat) on it to space the gypsum and create an air pocket which will further improve the insulation while eliminating thermal bridges.

There is this product that you can put, which I do not know if it is available in Europe which serves as a vapor barrier insulation and radiant at the same time.

http://www.flexfoil.com/FRENCH/about_flexfoil.htm
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by green » 05/02/11, 21:09

Thank you :D
I do not know if it is available here but the local pros will certainly give me the equivalent and if the kraft paper is effective or not.
Here is the link : http://www.isover.fr/doc/isover/ficheP/ ... 2roule.pdf
I see that there is a version with "kraft alu", what is the use?
the finished wall will be composed as such from the outside to the inside:

Sprayed coating 2 cm, (existing)
hollow blocks 20 cm (existing)
vapor barrier (I'm not sure which one yet),
16 cm high density glass wool,
Vapor barrier (I'm waiting for the pros' answers),
2,5 cm area blade,
plaster plates 1,3 cm.

Thank you
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by Obamot » 05/02/11, 21:19

For Kraft, it seems essential to me, precisely because the LDV is falling apart, over time there is little more than this support on which it can hang. :(

Ok, thanks for the link Alain G, we are moving forward ... ^^

1) I really like the concept (except for the LDV) which looks like what I posted earlier here:
https://www.econologie.com/forums/post193141.html#193141
Because I wanted to respect Verdes, who complained that we were squatting his thread a bit ^^
And that I wanted to start posting sketches.

2) Minérgie-P houses are "controlled", while Novoclimat are 100% waterproof "saunas", I have no idea, but in one case as in the other, I see badly such "DIY" constructions by "improvised builders" ... as we could see there still about twenty years ... ^^

3) the polystyrene extruded on the support / foundation with the floor above made me laugh a lot, since we know that this material not only rots, but disintegrates even faster than LDV when it is in critical conditions. (But not better with us ... I would eventually recommend a continuous tiokol joint placed on hollow terracotta bricks, with polyurethane foam inside). Although the insulation at the slab / wall junction seems weak to me for the temperatures recorded ...

4) I didn't believe too much in low expansion polyurethane foam, so I did some testing in a wall (terracotta brick partition) to see ... Then I stored some foam residue that had dried out wall (offcuts cut with a cutter to ensure the finish, it works very well ...). Alas ~ 2 years after the material, it has become "rusk" ... So it's fine as long as it doesn't move, but it's no longer malleable and if cracks appear, the air will pass amha .. As for the duration over> 40 years ... I dare not think about it! Will there be anything left? :( These foams still have to evolve, to give us flexible film thicknesses and thicker than they currently are. I would think with an elastomer foam ...

But it is by far one of the most serious constructions that I have not seen so far, except that we must fight against the effect of oven! But one cannot be more royalist than the king ...
(Hack must enjoy looking at the sketches ^^)

Aérialcasor: absolutely, I calculated 10% settlement ... alea jacta est ... ^^

To conclude, like Dedelco they don't do it to me! I'm waiting to see what such sandwiches will give over time ... :P 8) (although time is running out) : Lol:
Last edited by Obamot the 05 / 02 / 11, 21: 52, 1 edited once.
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by green » 05/02/11, 21:40

[quote = "Obamot"] Because I wanted to respect Verdes, who complained that we were squatting his son a bit ^^
[Quote]
No worries, it's not "my" thread, it's the thread of those who write it. :D
I am not at home and I am very happy that competent people take my questions to heart and allow me to progress on the path of econology. 8)
I just worried about readability and access with a title that I find inappropriate in relation to the amount of quality information it contains.
Goods.
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by moby25 » 05/02/11, 21:42

When we see how glass wool with kraft paper is often asked by individuals or by certain pros (no connection with tape) I have a doubt about the real effectiveness of this one ...
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by Alain G » 05/02/11, 21:50

verdes wrote:Thank you :D
I do not know if it is available here but the local pros will certainly give me the equivalent and if the kraft paper is effective or not.
Here is the link : http://www.isover.fr/doc/isover/ficheP/ ... 2roule.pdf
I see that there is a version with "kraft alu", what is the use?
the finished wall will be composed as such from the outside to the inside:

Sprayed coating 2 cm, (existing)
hollow blocks 20 cm (existing)
vapor barrier (I'm not sure which one yet),
16 cm high density glass wool,
Vapor barrier (I'm waiting for the pros' answers),
2,5 cm area blade,
plaster plates 1,3 cm.

Thank you



Thank you for the link!

: Shock: This is what we had and 20 years ago that it no longer arises here, it was also with or without aluminum foil!


I recommend with laminated aluminum film and adhesive tape on the joints, otherwise you add the polythene film on top and further increases the tightness and the insulation a little inexpensively, except for the rest it seems very well and you can start the work.
:D
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by Alain G » 05/02/11, 22:08

Obamot wrote:For Kraft, it seems essential to me, precisely because the LDV is falling apart, over time there is little more than this support on which it can hang. :(

Ok, thanks for the link Alain G, we are moving forward ... ^^

1) I really like the concept (except for the LDV) which looks like what I posted earlier here:
https://www.econologie.com/forums/post193141.html#193141
Because I wanted to respect Verdes, who complained that we were squatting his thread a bit ^^
And that I wanted to start posting sketches.

2) Minérgie-P houses are "controlled", while Novoclimat are 100% waterproof "saunas", I have no idea, but in one case as in the other, I see badly such "DIY" constructions by "improvised builders" ... as we could see there still about twenty years ... ^^

3) the polystyrene extruded on the support / foundation with the floor above made me laugh a lot, since we know that this material not only rots, but disintegrates even faster than LDV when it is in critical conditions. (But not better with us ... I would eventually recommend a continuous tiokol joint placed on hollow terracotta bricks, with polyurethane foam inside). Although the insulation at the slab / wall junction seems weak to me for the temperatures recorded ...

4) I didn't believe too much in low expansion polyurethane foam, so I did some testing in a wall (terracotta brick partition) to see ... Then I stored some foam residue that had dried out wall (offcuts cut with a cutter to ensure the finish, it works very well ...). Alas ~ 2 years after the material, it has become "rusk" ... So it's fine as long as it doesn't move, but it's no longer malleable and if cracks appear, the air will pass amha .. As for the duration over> 40 years ... I dare not think about it! Will there be anything left? :( These foams still have to evolve, to give us flexible film thicknesses and thicker than they currently are. I would think with an elastomer foam ...

But it is by far one of the most serious constructions that I have not seen so far, except that we must fight against the effect of oven! But one cannot be more royalist than the king ...
(Hack must enjoy looking at the sketches ^^)

Aérialcasor: absolutely, I calculated 10% settlement ... alea jacta est ... ^^

To conclude, like Dedelco they don't do it to me! I'm waiting to see what such sandwiches will give over time ... :P 8) (although time is running out) : Lol:



Ben Obamot!

It is not because this kind of construction is new for you that it is not good, all the materials of the Novoclimat manufacture are materials which exist since beyond 40 years except for the Flexfoil which dates from 17 years, they have all held up very well over time, the polyurethane foam does not support the sun, ditto for the rigid polystyrene panels but does not fall apart in the shade and you can always laugh at putting them under the cement slab because it is a 30-year practice with no apparent problem. Naturally, the bottom surface must be conditioned with a good layer of sand.

The oven needs controlled ventilation, will I repeat it many more times!

Anyway we consume less for the same surface with a much colder climate! : Mrgreen:

Edit: Sorry I confused Isover with Flexfoil
Last edited by Alain G the 05 / 02 / 11, 22: 51, 2 edited once.
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by green » 05/02/11, 22:10

Thank you, so I'm going to add a layer of vapor barrier. 8)
For the work it is already in progress, I removed the "old" 100mm glass wool with kraft paper glued to the bitumen to see that the rain screen under the tiles is a colander (appointment with the roofer) .
I receive the materials on Thursday, the fireplace in 2 weeks, the sauna is not ordered, the jacuzzi is chosen, I await the estimate for the bay windows, so it rolls.
Goods.
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by Alain G » 05/02/11, 22:23

Green

There is just a small change to the materials!



Sprayed coating 2 cm, (existing)
hollow blocks 20 cm (existing)
vapor barrier (I'm not sure which one yet), > a by-air is preferable
16 cm high density glass wool,
Vapor barrier (I'm waiting for the pros' answers),
2,5 cm area blade,
plaster plates 1,3 cm.
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Criticism is good if added to some compliments.

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