Improved Oil Burner-reduction NOx and CO-Blue Flame

[Obamot]

Ah well, you're back to Bidouille?

[Obamot]

to choose to buy something I think I would go to a pellet burner rather .... or even better (which will no doubt happen elsewhere) I would build a mass stove (I had a lot of good results with experimental models in my garden;), result no smoke but especially no smell of wood burning even with the nose at the level of the chimney;), but this may be the subject of another post ....) .....

And passivate your house, right? You the great insulation specialist!

— "Not expensive enough, son?"

[bidouille23]

Re,

+ you put a small nozzle and + you have to push the injection pump, it's normal.
I went up to the max, no problem it is in the interval given by the manufacturer, so I do not think it farts; can be a pump seal to change sooner or what but it is faicle to change, 4 screws and hop.

I can be a bit of a mess then on this one there .... don't surprise me about that .... the 0.4 is not in the interval given by the manufacturer .... on the G3 it gives 0.45 as minimum value .... on the G3 R (there is an oil preheating resistor and on this model it is indicated that we can mount a nozzle of 0.4 .... In short I will leave like this and order a joint in case ...
And I'm definitely not going to change the nozzle for a 0.4 for the moment. Anyway, the 0.4 is already two sizes below the original one ....

As for the tube, if the outside of the flame allows the tube to blush on an almost clear cherry, it is because the outside of the flame is around 780 to 800 ° c, the hot point of the flame which is rather towards the center is him therefore most certainly above 1000 ° or I think I have a certain amount of NOx ...

And this is where I am blaser for not having enough to measure them ....

I thought to put a layer of refractory at the bottom, kind thinned brick instead of 5cm I thought to put 3 cm roughly see less now that you told me the thing;) Jonul thank you, it seems logical, simple and very identical to the operation a ball burner;) ....

In short it will purr ....

otherwise feedback back in time the boiler would stop from + to + often, I went from blue flame to a little blue flame a little yellow, just so as not to be bothered, it went off again nickel this year j haven't even changed the nozzle;

As long as the combustion is good do not bother to change the nozzle;) ..... The heating engineers do not take the lead they will not iron 15 times a year to see if the combustion is deteriorated, blow for the sake of simplicity it changes the nozzle without pausing question .... it is IMHO applied logic ...

You will tell us how long he lived ...

And thank you for the detail of the filter, so there must be a way to connect a diesel fuel filter for cars: with its filter holder. This is something I can have for nothing, and brazing fittings does not bother me;) .... I will get what to modify ...... thank you

Good evening day

a+

[jonule]

ok hack, try it out, it's up to everyone to push the shimili forward;

me my basic nozzle was a 0.65 I am at 0.4, and I indeed bought for the occasion a burner with heated line.

if you observe the assembly of the "oil" burner (100% oil via adaptation of a conventional oil burner), it has developed a fuel (oil) heating system: identical to mine, before ordering the burner ignition box, he slaved it to a (classic) thermostat placed in a small tank (a constant level tank of an oil stove): when it is hot the thermostat closes the contact and switches on the burner . he can choose his t ° C and saves a lot of money (the heated line).
there are heated lines to adapt, otherwise on a site like oliomobile you will find what to make an electric heater with copper wire winding and its thermostat (click).
therefore possible! =)

[bidouille23]

Hello,

wish I hadn't seen Mr Obamot: happy new year ...

If you actually take the sentences out of their context ....;)

This is neither my house, nor my boiler, nor my burner, inside I only make myself happy ...

To choose I take the insulation but seeing that this is not the subject, what I said was about the change of burner mentioned earlier ...

If the subject had been to change a burner, I would have opted for a pellet burner that's all .... but it is obvious that to choose I prefer a smaller house, to the standard of passive insulation in order to n have only the minimum heating see not at all .... In 1 have avoided losses in two have the compensations .... but there is not the subject;) ....

In short still no blue flame but I managed to gain a few degrees and keep a very low CO level, I also almost destroyed my probe , I like who would say reduced the air a little too much, it did it well but one minute after the CO skyrocketed to over 60 ppm arfff, but not long I re-opened the air quickly zef and that corrected the problem .... in short, an HS filter and I was very scared "I had heard the testo beep and tilt" it's done, it takes a first time has everything (I would not do it again, I knew what it was going to give in brief ..... hack what )

So I go back I take the last photo and see small video view that I will restart with the last setting and the cooler boiler pk it is like who would say increase in temperature during the tests ... but not too much either am not crazy either ...

Short
* I have a not beautiful flame, no warhead
* I have big doubts about the tightness between the burner and its support (no seal)
* the pump seal is very old but it does not leak (outside anyway),
* Door seal very old too ... to change ....

But you will see the measurements are surprising if we consider (if I remember correctly what Captaine said), that a perfect combustion would translate by: X CO2 0 O2 0 CO 0 etc etc combustion never seen

for what i get i have indeed a dose of CO2 little CO and little O2 ....


see you later i put the pictures

[bidouille23]

Despite the concerns stated yesterday, these are the measures I have taken.
first the simple assembly:

stainless steel smokehouse tube, diameter 125 mm, length 28 cm, for a burner of 80 diam ...



Then I had to refill the tube without making a measurement because the boiler was not far from 90 °, so I waited a little (time to write the message from last night all that) and here is the measurement has my return ...

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2ef39 ... modif_tech

I regulate the air and it gives that ...

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2ef3q ... if-n2_tech


there I had cut the recording and arrived at 200 ° c at the outlet of the boiler, here is the reading of crazy CO coming back .... THE cell works well, I removed it tested outside in my mouth everywhere she reacts very well ...

The filter :



he asked two or three CO rise I will put a new filter the next time to make an opacity reading (I made a measurement this morning but I zap to change the filter ... arfff)

and so this morning's measurement, here is the ticket scan, I stayed warm all the time:

* the smoke temperature values ​​are basically stable, it fluctuates from 1 to 2 ° c.

* CO2 also stabilizes

* The CO varies between 0 and 5 or even 6 times but goes down immediately to 5 and then to 1, 0 etc ... basically the variation is stable

* The O2 is stable to him too ....

and the CO level at the start of heating is the problem, it can happen maybe 1 minute maximum 1min 30 for a drop of CO ...

Compared to the more than 60 during a huge lack of air, the 000 on let's say 60 minutes is probably not a disaster right?

And here is the crazy ticket (I thought I recorded 1 CO but the measurement changed at the time of registration ):




On the other hand my tube is still cherry red but a little darker ... it is therefore always too long I think, shorter it would blush less I think .... it would be necessary for the flame to face outside I think, but the result of measurements are there.

So I will next time measured without the tube , the smart guy that I am has not made this measurement ..... but it will come .... I'm still a bit messy I must admit

[bidouille23]

Slut,

did the heating engineer who told us that the blue flame was still too polluting, without developing the subject would be in the corner so that we spoke about that ...

Or just to give your measurements in order to have points of comparison ...

I will still carry out the measurements announced before either without the tube, and then measure the opacity of the smoke (I already know that there is no smoke visible at the chimney) ....

please

a+

[Capt_Maloche]

It's not bad all that

If you have CO at startup, it's because you still have too much air
The ideal flame is not entirely blue

You can also play on the position of your recirculation tube:
- to the burner = less recycling
- to the boiler = more recycling

[bidouille23]

Slut,

the flame is not blue, in fact I don't even think that it comes out of the tube ... in fact, through the small hole what I see are sparks, but not opaque yellow, rather red yellow ( without being red due to the lack of air), a semi red transparent like a beautiful flame with very little solid matter ...

Thank you, for the detail of the tube position, the position of my tube for the moment it is 1.5 cm see max 2 cm, I would measure all this to put the data in order and precise on the assembly side ...

At startup yes a rise in CO, but I try nothing to do I am in the current state of things in low air limit after it is the rise in hell .... The sparks become more red, becomes cloudy until it becomes an orange flame .... and that's when my tester beeps in all directions ....

I will therefore check the air leaks, the seals etc ... and I have a doubt when the perfect positioning of the recirculation tube relative to the axis of the burner ....

How did you make this adjustment? to the eye like me or a piano cord a ruler ??? a tube that catches the nozzle ... it will always be better than goose ...



After effectively if no improvement a filter change and preheating of diesel, to go down again from a nozzle size ....



a +

[jonule]

the flame should face each other outside I think

+1, I shortened the tube so that the door opens with the burner and the tube.
when I adjusted the flame hook towards the bottom of the boiler, I also saw the flame coming out +

for the place of the tube, I started it just where the nose of the burner stops.

with this induction tube operation, I changed all the seals: door, door bottom, flame vision etc ...

I went from 260 ° C to 160 ° C in smoke, I did not test the CO but I did not seek to have the perfect woman. uh the perfect flame; =)