re
in the duct no,
have a final exchanger which cools the gases to max 50 ° which offers a very good efficiency to the boiler
the wool melts around the hearth ...
Oh yes!! if you pour concrete around your fireplace, put a coil on it !!!!
1 around the pot, 1 in the concrete
polycombustible steam boiler
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Why make the coil?
My goal is to make a burner whose exhaust gases
will go in a pipe that will be the entire length of my greenhouse. This will allow
to heat it in winter to dry my wood and in spring for them
young plants.
If all goes well, I will make an exchanger to heat the pool
in summer. In my sector it is a must if you want to use
from the pool more than a week per year. I admit that under 26 ° c
the water is too cold for my taste.
My goal is to make a burner whose exhaust gases
will go in a pipe that will be the entire length of my greenhouse. This will allow
to heat it in winter to dry my wood and in spring for them
young plants.
If all goes well, I will make an exchanger to heat the pool
in summer. In my sector it is a must if you want to use
from the pool more than a week per year. I admit that under 26 ° c
the water is too cold for my taste.
0 x
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read!
So if I followed you took a 35kg gas bottle that you cut to make your heating body, at the end of this bottle you have your gas evacuation tube which will be very long, which serves as a heat sink.
so you could put a scilencier at the end or the gas would be colder. (yes the gas outlet tubes tend to propagate noise at the outlet.
to increase your efficiency, it would be good to insert washers (eg washer d100 for a gas evac tube of 180) to create a turbulation in the gas evacuator tube in order to better recover the heat and lower your t ° c gas at the end of the chimney. umm do you understand?
So if I followed you took a 35kg gas bottle that you cut to make your heating body, at the end of this bottle you have your gas evacuation tube which will be very long, which serves as a heat sink.
so you could put a scilencier at the end or the gas would be colder. (yes the gas outlet tubes tend to propagate noise at the outlet.
to increase your efficiency, it would be good to insert washers (eg washer d100 for a gas evac tube of 180) to create a turbulation in the gas evacuator tube in order to better recover the heat and lower your t ° c gas at the end of the chimney. umm do you understand?
0 x
I'm not there yet, I can't get it started.
I poured refractory motier to reduce the diameter of the hearth.
There is already progress in the sense that when switching on with
oil, acetone or thiner, the flame is no longer blown up by the explosion.
But it does not start .... Maybe because the mortar is still wet.
It makes me think that I will have to make a photo.
If I don't manage to do it again, I stick to it scrupulously.
manufacturing instructions. Which has to put two side by side to have
more power.
I poured refractory motier to reduce the diameter of the hearth.
There is already progress in the sense that when switching on with
oil, acetone or thiner, the flame is no longer blown up by the explosion.
But it does not start .... Maybe because the mortar is still wet.
It makes me think that I will have to make a photo.
If I don't manage to do it again, I stick to it scrupulously.
manufacturing instructions. Which has to put two side by side to have
more power.
0 x
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lut
ha yes I understand !!
with the mortar its insulates the heat
you need a steel pot diam 80mm to 100mm which heats up strongly, otherwise there is too much mass to heat the pot must blush !!!
otherwise impossible to light the temp the mortar rises to .... 400 or 500 ° it's dead!
add a pot in the middle of your mortar, the mortar just serves as a calorie accumulator ....
ha yes I understand !!
with the mortar its insulates the heat
you need a steel pot diam 80mm to 100mm which heats up strongly, otherwise there is too much mass to heat the pot must blush !!!
otherwise impossible to light the temp the mortar rises to .... 400 or 500 ° it's dead!
add a pot in the middle of your mortar, the mortar just serves as a calorie accumulator ....
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https://www.econologie.com/forums/poele-a-hu ... 44-10.html
look well
the tube is 80mm diameter and wheelbarrows, well 4a5mm thick
the central tube you need at least 15 / 21mm
heating tube
look well
the tube is 80mm diameter and wheelbarrows, well 4a5mm thick
the central tube you need at least 15 / 21mm
heating tube
0 x
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