Fridge - mitigate the peak at startup

[izentrop]

I would do a test with a halogen lamp 24 V / 250 watts that has the same resistance to cold. A priori, it is less likely to fuse ...

... but 2.5 ohm to 10 A, it may not be enough to slow him down enough.

[Leo Maximus]

I did not see there was a fourth page. My excuses.

OK test with halogen lamp 24 volts / 250 watts:

Mains voltage of 234 volts.

Instant start of the fridge. The lamp remains off, voltage of 0,18 volts at its terminals, current of 1,05 amperes.

But no news from "valo" despite my personal message ... Electrocuted death?

[izentrop]

You do not want to keep your old fridge that consumes 250 W. the current fridge / freezer A + consume 150 W (for use in solar, even less) https://www.energuide.be/fr/questions-r ... -ils/71/... although it also depends on the insulation layer and the ambient temperature. Better to measure with an energy meter to be on, or to over-isolate.

For your case, it would take a light bulb whose heat resistance would be 40 ohm to reduce the starting power by half and consume as little as possible in normal mode.
So 1300 W / 230 V (half power estimated at startup) or 15 W / 24 V, but a well calculated NTC will have less loss in normal regime.

[Leo Maximus]

You do not want to keep your old fridge that consumes 250 W. the current fridge / freezer A + consume 150 W (for use in solar, even less) https://www.energuide.be/fr/questions-r ... -ils/71/... although it also depends on the insulation layer and the ambient temperature. Better to measure with an energy meter to be on, or to over-isolate.

For your case, it would take a light bulb whose heat resistance would be 40 ohm to reduce the starting power by half and consume as little as possible in normal mode.
So 1300 W / 230 V (half power estimated at startup) or 15 W / 24 V, but a well calculated NTC will have less loss in normal regime.

Hmm, humm, humm, ....

You should re-read the thread from the beginning ...

I personally have no problem with the fridge. The problem in question is that of "valo". Its 230V ~ / 12 VDC converter does not support starting its 75W fridge and I proposed a solution tested from a fridge of mine. He would have to do the test on his own, but "valo" deserted .

The important thing is to learn from it, AMHA. What comes closest to the ideal NTC is a low voltage power lamp. This is commonplace, many power circuits are protected in this way.

My old fridge (40 years of service soon) consumes 250 W. It is big inside but small outside that is, he is badly isolated, I know it. It's an auxiliary fridge installed in the garage, I'll change it when it breaks down. Thanks for the advice,

[izentrop]

I know very well what has been written and the tests you have done for "valo" the ghost. I just bring details about your fridge and the calculation of the power of the tungsten filament bulb to choose, depending on its resistance and the power it will receive when starting the motor unit and which has nothing to do with its nominal power.

[Leo Maximus]

I do not have the Linky yet but it will not be long: I received the mail.

How does the new meter handle the peak of fridges startup? It's ultra short, but it spreads it on 1 minute, 10 minutes? I would not be surprised ...

[Juju77]

Hello,

We must also respect the basic rules to avoid this peak. Already, we should avoid letting the fridge lying down too long and also, do not light it for a moment before restarting. We must also avoid the hot, logical. Article that may interest some:

hellowatt.co.uk contract-electricity

What do you think ?

Edit by Remundo: I think you spam at the first message, dear sir. I leave your details by cracking the link, interested people will make the effort to search

[Gaston]

We must also respect the basic rules to avoid this peak.

We are of course talking about the peak that occurs each time the engine is started, not about a possible "sur-peak" at the first connection.

But maybe it was just a pretext to fit your advertising link