Improving the efficiency of a fireplace or stove

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The Passing
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Improving the efficiency of a fireplace or stove




by The Passing » 06/12/05, 23:10

Yesterday, I came across a user's opinion on the site ciao.fr, and what I read amazed me by its simplicity:

In a house heated by a closed fireplace, the principle is to get a large flow of fresh air from outside (or a basement) just under the fireplace.

Then the following things happen:
- The air creates an overpressure in the house.
- When passing over the walls of the fireplace, the cold air heats up and expands, further amplifying the overpressure.
- The volume of hot air in the rooms tends to swell and take up more and more space, thus expelling the colder air in the lower part of the rooms towards the natural low openings (below the door, etc. ...)


As a result, the cold air no longer enters the house through the joints of doors or windows, but on the contrary, it is the cold air from the bottom of the rooms which is evacuated outside by these same "openings"!

I tested this system today by dismantling the VMC from the attic and using it to blow the cold air from the garage just into the fresh air intake that comes out under the fireplace ..... the result is there: it is warmer in the room where the fireplace is, and it is much warmer than before in other rooms :) Suddenly, I removed the "tubes" from the bottom of the door ... a treat, no more cold air.

The air is also renewed constantly, I find this system rather great!
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by lau » 07/12/05, 00:47

Yesterday, I came across the opinion of a user on the ciao.fr site, and what I read amazed me with its simplicity:


I read the article, this boy seems to me "a little young" as they say with us and is likely to reconsider his judgment in a while.
He says: 10 cubic meters of wood (5 Tons) drawback: Refueling effort for those who are tired from birth.
I would like to answer him: we'll talk about it in a few years kid! and then if it is a "real", it should also cook in the stove in summer when it is 38 ° in the shade outside, like the old ones! I know some!


In a house heated by a closed fireplace, the principle is to get a large flow of fresh air from outside (or a basement) just under the fireplace.


: Lol: like all fireplaces built according to the rules of the art! nothing new here, it's even highly recommended! (diameter 110 min. adjustable by butterfly)

As a result, the cold air no longer enters the house through the joints of doors or windows, but on the contrary, it is the cold air from the bottom of the rooms which is evacuated outside by these same "openings"!

this turbine recovery system located above the hood is not new and I could tell you a lot about it !!

A little advice that I give and which cost me a lot, if you want to be warm with little wood for a modest installation opt without hesitation for a stove or fireplace stove, you will not regret it!
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The Passing
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by The Passing » 07/12/05, 08:52

lau wrote:I read the article, this boy seems to me "a little young" as they say with us and is likely to reconsider his judgment in a while.
He says: 10 cubic meters of wood (5 Tons) drawback: Refueling effort for those who are tired from birth.
I would like to answer him: we'll talk about it in a few years kid! and then if it is a "real", it should also cook in the stove in summer when it is 38 ° in the shade outside, like the old ones! I know some!

10 cubic meters is what I also use every year for the home (since 2003), where is the problem?

: lol: like all fireplaces built according to the rules of the art! nothing new here, it's even highly recommended! (diameter 110 min. adjustable by butterfly)


Bahh, as much in a new house it is easy to 'think' from the start, as in a house which dates from the 1970s, it is less obvious. The heating system that was in the house before, it's a classic gas central heating, I "stuffed" into gas bills the first year, suddenly we quickly went to the fireplace and without regret.

this turbine recovery system located above the hood is not new and I could tell you a lot about it !!

In France, this system is not much developed, or else this trick (by pressurized air in all rooms) is well kept by professionals! Long live the Internet :)

A little advice that I give and which cost me a lot, if you want to be warm with little wood for a modest installation opt without hesitation for a stove or fireplace stove, you will not regret it!

I use a closed hearth, and it heats thunder: once I measured the temperature above the glass on the cast iron: more than 200 ° C (I stopped the measurement, the probe handle was starting to melt). Apart from the decoration around the fireplace, the principle remains the same as a stove.

Otherwise, assessment this morning after a first "night under pressure": the chimney went out in the night around 1:00 am, and I was 16 ° in all rooms, which is a BIG improvement. Before, we closed the doors of the dining room to confine a little heat for the next morning, and in the other rooms, it was rather 10 to 12 ° ...

So this system is just great (comment from my wife this morning: "it's good, there is no more air flow in the bathroom under the bathtub" :) )
Last edited by The Passing the 07 / 12 / 05, 15: 23, 1 edited once.
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by Other » 07/12/05, 15:09

Hello Benoit
I thought you knew this about presurization!
Here even the houses all heated electric we organize to keep them under pressure (except when the cooker's hood works it sucks a large amount of indoor air it must come from outside to provide such volume.
The economical way to pressurize is to draw outside air even at -15 as tonight it passes through a simple exchanger (several layers of honeycombed plastic panels the same as for politicians' posters) which means that the inlet air heats up with the outlet air. (Venemar)
In any case it is necessary to make a circulation of air permanently with the outside.
If we don't do that, the bottom of the door freezes the bottom of the window is wet and frozen, even triple insulated panes (At home it's double thermos older house)
In reality it is necessary to control the entry of cold air outside to only one
place and pressurize the cabin so that small leaks let out hot air.
Now if you heat with wood you absolutely need an outside air intake not very far from the stove, it consumes a lot of air, what comes out of the chimney comes from somewhere.
Although the fireplaces are just good for the atmosphere, but to heat it sucks. Besides, when we calculate the heating in a fully electric house if there is a fireplace, we must increase the heating power, because when the fireplace does not work it is unfavorable for insulation of the house.
Another problem when it is very cold the air becomes dry and the dry air distorts our feeling of cold and hot. at -25 outside dry air
without wind you do not realize so much that it is so cold, just like inside if it is too dry at 22c you have the impression that it is cold. But in winter we organize ourselves so as not to make the humidifier work too much, otherwise it will cause fogging on the windows
it's like everything else it takes a dosage ...

Andre
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The Passing
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by The Passing » 07/12/05, 15:20

Andre: Thank you very much for those explanations !!! We have a lot to learn from you ...
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The Passing
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by The Passing » 07/12/05, 15:52

Finding that speaks volumes: look for: heat recovery ventilation in google .... the first page contains only canadian / quebec sites : roll:
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by lau » 07/12/05, 16:04

André has summarized everything and then he knows what he is talking about, he lives in a cold country.
Benoit I was not speaking for the 10 cubic meters of wood but for what the boy said who had just installed a wood heating system and who criticized his detractors by calling them "the tired from birth".
Some indeed do not have the time or are fed up! I know peasant families in the middle mountains who cut each winter 25 tons of wood to heat the house 1 year, so it's about 40 to 50 cubic meters !! in question: house in the ubac with old people inside, cold neighborhood, very gourmet wood boiler, absence of double glazing. This family has gone into fuel oil and it is true that today with the rise in oil they are starting to wonder about their choice. : roll:

I use a closed hearth, and it heats thunder: once I measured the temperature above the glass on the cast iron: more than 200 ° C (I stopped the measurement, the probe handle was starting to melt). Apart from the decoration around the fireplace, the principle remains the same as a stove.


I have a seguin dutheriez 17KW pulsed by an aeroval 600m3 / H on 2 air vents ... that's for sure it's very beautiful! it produces a great heat, but it is a wood chasm and I weigh my words! The thermal inertia is also too important for my taste (45 minutes before it starts to heat up).
In cold countries they are not crazy, they all have stoves (for those who heat with wood)
And as André says, the air outlet is not only used for convection of the hearth / hood / hot air diffusers but also for the self-consumption of the hearth itself.
Little advice that caused me a lot of hassle: for the waterproofing of the rock wool panels in the hood, choose a special chimney roll / tape that resists 200 or 300 ° c (it exists) instead of 110 ° on the rolls that are found at material merchants. Because otherwise beware of gas fumes!
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by Other » 08/12/05, 06:20

Hello,
You have to be careful when you talk about a chimney, the old style chimney it is a wooden gauge and slavery for the operator.
But there are slow combustion stoves built into the fireplace with a glass door, it becomes interesting, at first you just see the door it looks like an old style fireplace.
The principle is always the same, a fairly thick, tightly sealed steel box The door has a gasket and there are plugs to leave very little air in, there is no key in the chimney it's useless. the interior of the furnace is all covered with refractory brick and for individuals between brick and iron a layer of ceramic wool.
These stoves have a high operating temperature
You have to leave them a bed of ash in the bottom, you shouldn't put the wood on a grid with an ashtray, it burns quickly enough, the bottom is brick with a layer of ash.
once the door is closed, we just see red embers that burn not flame, the economy of wood is surprising for the heat it gives off, two good logs make the night,
the large logs not split lasts even longer.
We have a lot of wood here but we do not all suck of the chainsaw and the handling of wood with the freezing bugs that enter the house, not to mention the salty that this generates this heating mode ..
Normally with 10 strings of 18 "or approximately 10 steres you heat continuously without stopping, you light once the stove, all winter or from December to the end of March.
Andre
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by The Passing » 08/12/05, 09:06

Andre: It is exactly this type of fireplace that I own;)
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by billie » 08/12/05, 11:39

Benoit- wrote:Andre: It is exactly this type of fireplace that I own;)

And where did you find it?

If I understand correctly the CMV (controlled mechanical ventilation) that we are presented with as essential would be a hoax (without bad pun!) Since it creates depression to my knowledge ...

I found that, the "VMI" (unfortunately still electric):
http://www.ventilairsec.com/htfr/aerati ... lation.htm

: Wink:
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