Vegetable garden of the (super) lazy in the 04 (800m)

[cabbage]

Hello, a "tube" for me is open at both ends, if this is the case, when transplanting in the ground it must be possible to bring the plant out from the bottom side of the roots provided that the foliage is not too developed, otherwise it makes think of the technique of the bucket made with the cardboard core of a roll of PQ.

[Moindreffor]

The idea of ​​doing the tube seedlings was born from a double reflection for the 2021 seedlings and for the transplanting.

How to avoid being flooded with buckets in the house?
So minimize the clutter.

How to avoid being caught 3 or 4 weeks in the sight while the plants set out again after transplanting?

I had already made seedlings in a bottle, then directly placed the (plastic) bottles in the ground and in this case I had not noticed any particular delay unlike transplanting.

So we had to adopt the same method but with a smaller container and smaller than the buckets themselves.

Hence the idea of ​​PVC tubes 4cm in diameter
Why 4cm in diameter?
Because it corresponded to the diameter of my anti-slug mussels.
But it is quite possible that this diameter will have to change over time.

The interest in using the tubes has been shown to be multiple
- space saving
- the plant is sown and never handled again
- the time saving in transplanting is immense
- this protects the plant even better from slugs

And maybe other benefits to discover over time.

wow, there it gets complicated for me ...
the delay in transplanting, is it really that important with you ?, I see it especially when you transplant a little small, and therefore I transplant the small clods into large pots and voila

I had a delay in transplanting especially when you transplanted in a soil, less fertile and drier and your vegetable was too late in its bucket, hence the use of large buckets for the plants which must develop well before transplanting, the roots have room, and when you transplant, the roots have not yet reached the edges and therefore with me it does not pose any real problems

[Doris]

You have to see what this way of doing will give over time, but I have a bit of the same thinking as Moindreffor. This is not the first time that you speak of a delay in transplanting, up to a month late, I do not understand. As Moindreffor says, I sometimes had this problem, but with too small pots in which the plants hung out for too long. But that didn't make me a month late either.
Second point compared to the bottle system, which I repeated at home with success, if I managed to eat a few turnips, it is thanks to that: the bottles, from memory, you buried them in the earth, but the tubes no, you just put them on them? You have to look back in time, but for rooting I ask myself questions.
Third thing, do you see an advantage over bottles regarding slugs? At home I was quiet like that, especially by stacking two bottles for certain things, once the plant was released, it was big enough and the slugs were no longer going. That's how I did with the peas, and if despite that I hardly ate any, it was necessary in the heat, and not in the slugs.

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Hello, a "tube" for me is open at both ends, if this is the case, when transplanting in the ground it must be possible to bring the plant out from the bottom side of the roots provided that the foliage is not too developed, otherwise it makes think of the technique of the bucket made with the cardboard core of a roll of PQ.

In fact, we don't do anything out at all.

See at 18 minutes ... we transplant as it is: guaranteed time saving, no manipulation of the seedling, no demoulding ... etc

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

For temperatures, yes.

Many outdoor plants "die" because their roots freeze over in winter. Blocking of absorptions. The roots are not armed against extreme temperatures. But we are talking about perennials.

For vegetables, it's hard to say what will be decisive;

The risk, but you do not measure the irrigation, is that the total rooting is shallower and that the volume of soil explored is less, especially for water ... But here too, 36 other factors will come into play. Not sure that the 10 or 20 cm (what is the length of your tubes?) Are not compensated on the one hand, or are significant on the other hand ...

What I fear in the first place at home, exposed to the wind: it is that the cabbages "fall" and that it breaks the root. Already without tubes at home, it is a bit the case. On Brussels sprouts or kale it can be boring. Will we have to tutor?

In fact I do not get all the comments ... proof that the video is poorly done

Tubes are PVC tubes, that is, open on both sides.
So, as in the passage at 18mn, you push your tube into the earth and basta.
The roots continue their life, "naturally" in the ground.
The same thing, but narrower, than with the bottle (the bottom of which is cut off of course) and which is no more than a shell with earth in it, but the plant takes root in the "real" earth .

For the warmth so much the better if it provides a little protection.
I had suspected this possibility.
The salad tubes are short but who cares a little because the salads are resistant.
On the other hand the other tubes are long so we will say that there is about 8cm to 10cm of tube buried in the earth ...
We can hope that the earth will not freeze under these 8cm to 10cm .... (a priori less elsewhere) and that therefore at least the first cm of the roots will be protected.

Regarding the fall of cabbages (I cheat) I have chests so .... not a bit of air ... one of the many advantages of chests.
We had a storm last night but nothing took a turn for the worse.
On the other hand, this is what I said above the advantage of the tubes, especially for seedlings, is that you can slide the "soil tube" inside, so lower the assembly by x cm (before to "transplant (and it's great for cabbages (or others) whose stems are a little thin."
You bring them down into the tube, you put the earth back to the cotyledons or even beyond and your cabbage is bundled up and reinforced at the level of the stem.
We suspect that it is even better for tomatoes, for example.
Reason why I make taller / longer tubes for tomatoes.

I had already posted a photo of a small tomato seedling of about ten cm with a root of 20cm ...
Already at this stage it is able to free itself from the length of the tube and find the ground, therefore water and nutrients ...

tomato seedling root 20cm.JPG

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

wow, there it gets complicated for me ...
the delay in transplanting, is it really that important with you ?, I see it especially when you transplant a little small, and therefore I transplant the small clods into large pots and voila

I had a delay in transplanting especially when you transplanted in a soil, less fertile and drier and your vegetable was too late in its bucket, hence the use of large buckets for the plants which must develop well before transplanting, the roots have room, and when you transplant, the roots have not yet reached the edges and therefore with me it does not pose any real problems

The delay in transplanting is real but it is only one of the advantages of the system (to date) among others.

We will say that not to handle the plants at all and to leave them in their original substrate when transplanting reduces transplant stress.

Now it may also depend on the climates, terroirs and conditions of each.

I had already seen it with the bottle.
Maybe it's because the ground here is still cold late in the season.
So the plant transplanted conventionally and which was "warm" in its bucket takes a cold snap at the roots ...
Whereas if we leave it in the container in which it grew, the shock is less ...

And may that difference greatly diminish in your warmer climates.

Obviously the system is designed to reduce handling so no change from small bucket to large bucket ...
I believe that some even make 3: alveoli, bucket of 7 then bucket of 9 or 11 it seems to me.

With the tubes: we sow, it grows, we put the tube in the ground and that's it.

This is why I am saying that the diameter of 4cm could very well be enlarged to 5 or 6 in the future ... for certain crops which remain for a long time in “bucket” like eggplant, even tomato.
Obviously I will have to have suitable anti-slug molds.

Or ..... keep tubes of 4 but give "to eat" the eggplants (or other) during this period a little long in tube

In fact I don't know

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

You have to see what this way of doing will give over time, but I have a bit of the same thinking as Moindreffor. This is not the first time that you speak of a delay in transplanting, up to a month late, I do not understand. As Moindreffor says, I sometimes had this problem, but with too small pots in which the plants hung out for too long. But that didn't make me a month late either.
Second point compared to the bottle system, which I repeated at home with success, if I managed to eat a few turnips, it is thanks to that: the bottles, from memory, you buried them in the earth, but the tubes no, you just put them on them? You have to look back in time, but for rooting I ask myself questions.
Third thing, do you see an advantage over bottles regarding slugs? At home I was quiet like that, especially by stacking two bottles for certain things, once the plant was released, it was big enough and the slugs were no longer going. That's how I did with the peas, and if despite that I hardly ate any, it was necessary in the heat, and not in the slugs.

For the delay in transplanting see the response to Moindreffor

So the bottles (cut at the bottom) I was content to almost put them on the ground ... "hole" of 3 to 4cm

The length of the tubes depends on the culture
- salads about 5cm
- cabbage about 13cm
- tomatoes about 18cm
So the transplanting holes arise from it
- salads about 3cm
- cabbages 8 to 9cm approximately
- tomatoes a good dozen cm approximately.
- eggplant not tested because I only transplanted in tubes (before immediate planting) and not seedlings. We will see that next year.

[Doris]

OK, understood, thank you, indeed the temperature difference between your soil and the containers is more important. Well, curious to have some feedback in a few months, to see what happens over time, it's always interesting. For the moment I am staying with the bottles, even soon, to try to eat some peas next spring.

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

OK, understood, thank you, indeed the temperature difference between your soil and the containers is more important. Well, curious to have some feedback in a few months, to see what happens over time, it's always interesting. For the moment I am staying with the bottles, even soon, to try to eat some peas next spring.

What do you do with the bottles?

[Moindreffor]

The delay in transplanting is real but it is only one of the advantages of the system (to date) among others.
We will say that not to handle the plants at all and to leave them in their original substrate when transplanting reduces transplant stress.

Now it may also depend on the climates, terroirs and conditions of each.

Maybe it's because the ground here is still cold late in the season.

I think your problem is more at this level, at home I will install temporary frames to heat the transplanting or planting or sowing area, depending on the season

example in March it is still cold, if I plant onions, in particular red onions, they vernalize and go to seed, with the frame on this area, the problem will be lessened
then I will transplant salads, or boost my winter salads with this system
then around mid-May I will transplant my tomatoes, eggplants, which have trouble taking off because at night it is still cool even if it no longer freezes, and hop I move and I transplant the peppers, which they have to wait a little longer , because much more cautious, and the chassis will remain there so that when September arrives it brings the most at night

I think that what you observe is what Didier talks about in terms of temperature, your tube above ground in winter will be a disadvantage because it will cool more by cons in spring it will heat up faster hence the best reprise

honestly for me your problem is the slugs, your donut molds are effective but you have a problem with transplanting you have to do it in bare roots, which I never do with buckets (it's like your tube except that you demoulds) or you have to stuff the hole of the mold, and sow in it (you did it at one time) and leave these molds warm while it rises, but there is the place which increases enormously

So you have developed a system that suits you, that's good, it worked under the straw hat, but wouldn't a little ferramol have been more effective? I know you work under cover alive unlike me, personally I don't have a problem with slugs, so why?

but for someone who wants to do little I find that you do more and more, because apart from unmolding the bucket I do not see what I am doing in addition, since for some transplants I do not even dig the earth , I put it in a small hole in a hay well compacted by the rain or watering

but really I respect your approach, you find solutions to your problems and that's great