Repair Flexible Solar Panel Leakage Pool (HDPE) Drilled

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Christophe
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Repair Flexible Solar Panel Leakage Pool (HDPE) Drilled




by Christophe » 30/06/11, 15:32

Yesterday my solar panel made the unfortunate meeting of my too hasty scythe! (stored vertically not connected) : Cry: : Cheesy:

Results: pierced panel, recess, and right through please!

front:

Image

back:

Image

How to seal permanently (knowing that it will heat and move)?

- glue or resin? If yes which product?
- plastic welding = melt to seal with or without addition of material?
- putty (bof)
- a "patch" (blah, it's not plan) ??
- ... ??

If the drilled pipes must be sealed (condemned) it does not bother me, it will not change much in terms of overall performance (therefore injection of a plug on either side of the cut in matter to be defined)

I don't know for sure what it is like plastic but it looks a lot like high density polyethylene ...

It's not EPDM as I thought at the beginning: https://www.econologie.com/forums/qui-se-cha ... t7783.html

Thank you
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Alain G
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by Alain G » 30/06/11, 15:42

Hi Christopher!

You can try to weld it using a small torch or soldering iron otherwise you cut the damaged ends straight and put on caps!

If you decide to weld, be careful not to overheat because the weld will quickly break!
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by Gaston » 30/06/11, 15:48

Image
It seems to me that the manual of mine proposed to cut the damaged pipes cleanly, then to insert pipes of a slightly smaller diameter : Idea:

It is necessary beforehand to separate the pipes from the tablecloth for a few centimeters (ten?) In order to handle them separately.

If I find the manual I check ... : Oops:
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by dedeleco » 30/06/11, 17:38

PE (HD worse) welds and sticks very badly (all glues mention that they do not stick to PE or Teflon), so the threaded pipe is best!

This is why I prefer the inexpensive 16 or 6 mm drip hose with fittings sold, which repair instantly as used by unpretentious forhorse !!
Only problem, the pressure is limited to less than the bar.
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by Christophe » 30/06/11, 18:10

Yes I think the "plugs" solution is the best ... must see the implementation because it will be necessary to glue them or solder them ... and therefore find the plugs that go well!?! : Idea: : Idea:

Otherwise Gaston's solution seems interesting to me too ... if I find compatible hoses ...
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by gegyx » 30/06/11, 18:36

If the pipes are independent, you can cut the flat interface between 2 pipes (not with a scythe this time, but meticulously with a cutter), the closest to the pipe (but not too much).
You put in your dilated hot plastic pipes (exposed to the sun), a metal pipe (not hot) inside (by sliding), penetrating 3 good cm.
And a moderately tight serfex.
If there is some play, coat with silicone sealant (or other glue) before, then leave to dry.

I was putting a copper plumbing pipe to get a car cooling hose.

Maybe red PER, but soft for tightening.
There is also more rigid gray in plumbing (LM)
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by swift2540 » 30/06/11, 18:43

The PE is only welded to the mirror or electric sleeve, see Geberit evacuation system.
http://www.geberit.be/web/appl/be/wcmsbef.nsf/pages/prod-evac-outi-1.
But it doesn't hold the pressure : Cry:
If I had to do it, personally I would take a slightly larger piece of copper pipe, and introduce it into the PE pipe after having slightly heated it with a blowlamp or heat gun. Then 2 style clamps
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collier_de_serrage
If you do not know how to sleeving, same technique but with a copper plug soldered on the copper pipe.
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by Forhorse » 30/06/11, 19:08

Yep, the problem with PE is that it is cross-linked during the manufacturing process. Suddenly heating it is useless, the molecules are stabilized and no longer bind together.
I heard that you can weld it after a plasma treatment or something like that, but I admit I don't know more!
You can maybe try to stick with epoxy glue after having meticulously degreased and frosted the surfaces with very fine sandpaper.
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by Christophe » 30/06/11, 19:17

Mmm it gets complicated ...

I will see if I have enough to make fitting tests with a few copper remains ... Frankly I do not know if it is worth it to connect the 2: I think rather make copper plugs ...

To be continued...
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by Forhorse » 30/06/11, 19:27

Even if it is a stopper, don't bother. You separate the pipes from the rest of the panel and fold them back on themselves to pinch them. A small colson collar to hold it and it rolls.

On the other hand, it may be necessary to do it "hot" because I think that it would tend to break at the level of the fold if too cold, must be tested.
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