Quantity of water lost by water heater during heating
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- I learn econologic
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Quantity of water lost by water heater during heating
Hello,
I have noticed for some time an increase in the volume of water lost (by the safety valve) from my water heater: I am at 10 l (in 10 days).
Especially since at the moment I have programmed only 2 heating periods: from 6h to 8h and 17h to 22h
Note that there is no leakage outside the heating period.
Is this quantity normal?
Otherwise what should I do?
I have noticed for some time an increase in the volume of water lost (by the safety valve) from my water heater: I am at 10 l (in 10 days).
Especially since at the moment I have programmed only 2 heating periods: from 6h to 8h and 17h to 22h
Note that there is no leakage outside the heating period.
Is this quantity normal?
Otherwise what should I do?
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- Grand Econologue
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- Registration: 19/11/09, 13:24
The quantity lost is a priori normal, but it depends on the volume of the water heater and the heating temperature ...
If the volume of the water heater is sufficient (as well as its insulation), a single heating period per 24 hours is sufficient, this is the case with me with a 200L water heater which is only heated at night at a reduced off-peak rate (between 21 p.m. and 6 a.m.) ...
If the volume of the water heater is sufficient (as well as its insulation), a single heating period per 24 hours is sufficient, this is the case with me with a 200L water heater which is only heated at night at a reduced off-peak rate (between 21 p.m. and 6 a.m.) ...
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oiseautempete wrote:The quantity lost is a priori normal, but it depends on the volume of the water heater and the heating temperature ...
...
it does NOT depend on the volume of the water heater but on the volume of hot water consumed ... and indeed on the temperature at which the water is heated.
with the big ladle, for water which reaches 15 ° and which is heated to 60 °, the volume increases by 1%.
we can therefore consider in the first approach that we lose 1L per 1L consumed.
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- elephant
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In my house, it is not connected to the drain. There are 3 of us, I get a bucket of water every 4 or 5 days (which I collect for flushing), the boiler being right next to the toilet in the bathroom. It is only used for the bathroom.
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elephant Supreme Honorary éconologue PCQ ..... I'm too cautious, not rich enough and too lazy to really save the CO2! http://www.caroloo.be
- chatelot16
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with the standard safety block, this water operator is mandatory
whatever the programming of the heating it is simply proportional to the quantity of water consumed
of course this water is not necessarily lost if we fill a bucket!
it is not lost either if we do not put the compulsory safety group and if we let the excess hot water come out upside down by the arrival of cold water
at home where I only have rainwater I do what I want! the security group is not compulsory for me
it is also possible to put a small bladder accumulator whose elasticity prevents the safety group valve from opening: it would be good to invent something to send a little air into the water heater itself: it just a little elasticity to avoid this loss of water
beware of too high water pressure it is better to put a regulator at 2 bar, and not only for the water heater but for the whole house: it avoids the wear of all the taps, especially flush
whatever the programming of the heating it is simply proportional to the quantity of water consumed
of course this water is not necessarily lost if we fill a bucket!
it is not lost either if we do not put the compulsory safety group and if we let the excess hot water come out upside down by the arrival of cold water
at home where I only have rainwater I do what I want! the security group is not compulsory for me
it is also possible to put a small bladder accumulator whose elasticity prevents the safety group valve from opening: it would be good to invent something to send a little air into the water heater itself: it just a little elasticity to avoid this loss of water
beware of too high water pressure it is better to put a regulator at 2 bar, and not only for the water heater but for the whole house: it avoids the wear of all the taps, especially flush
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To avoid this "mess" you can fit a special DHW expansion vessel ...
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- chatelot16
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exactly! I have only seen this install once! a small bladder accumulator as for a heating circuit but special drinking water ...
but before I deal with water leaks I have to find what I eat the accent and the apostrophes
for a long time certain times each apostrophe activated a search function of firefox, only on econology ... but for some days it is worse ... the apostrophe are simply ignored
but before I deal with water leaks I have to find what I eat the accent and the apostrophes
for a long time certain times each apostrophe activated a search function of firefox, only on econology ... but for some days it is worse ... the apostrophe are simply ignored
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Question: why is there not a pre-inflated bladder to compensate for the expansion in all DHW tanks?
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- Grand Econologue
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I don't really see the connection with the losses ...
Dirk Pitt is right and I would even say more: it depends on the volume of hot water heated; or rather cold water that became hot
But if you do not have a valve at the water meter, there is no need for a safety group, or a vessel, it is the network "which absorbs" ...
Dirk Pitt is right and I would even say more: it depends on the volume of hot water heated; or rather cold water that became hot
But if you do not have a valve at the water meter, there is no need for a safety group, or a vessel, it is the network "which absorbs" ...
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