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Hello,

I am going to carry out a major renovation of my one-storey house of 106 m² located in Pertuis in the Vaucluse and built in 1962.
The current windows are original wooden construction and single glazing.

After taking into account different opinions and reading the books of JP. OLIVA, I plan to carry out the following renovations:
- 2 French windows facing south: replacement by aluminum glass doors with thermal break with standard 4-16-4 mm double glazing,
- south-facing window: replacement with aluminum windows with standard 4-16-4 mm double glazing - Ug = 2.8 W / m².K - Fs = 0.76 [this high solar factor allows me to take advantage of the sun's contributions during the heating periods knowing that I have no sun masks],
- north-east-west facing windows: replacement by aluminum windows with 4-16-4 mm double glazing, argon gas and low-e transparent layer on the inside - Ug = 1.2 W / m².K - Uw = 1.8 W / m².K - Fs = 0.64


My questions are:
1) Am I right not to put a low emissivity transparent layer on the inside on south facing windows?
2) Is filling the air gap with argon gas really worth it? Should I not put argon gas in the air gap of south-facing picture windows in order to increase the solar factor (g)?
3) What is expected and reasonable AEV performance to be? I am sheltered from the wind and in the first approach, I would orient myself towards the following choice A1 E3 VA5. Is it OK ?

I plan to consult woodworkers who make the windows in their own manufacturing workshops. These carpenters installers distribute a priori reputed products of the TECHNAL or SCHUCO type.
I also plan to consult a company which installs windows manufactured directly in a factory [KLINE type windows].

What do you recommend between products made to measure by a menu maker in a workshop near me or products made to measure in a factory? Do you have feedback to share?

Should I have the removal of existing windows and French windows by the mason or the menu maker? what are your feedback on the best way to proceed with the removal?

Thank you in advance for your feedback.

I found this very explicit link on the choice of glazing http://www.ecologs.org/materiaux/vit...s-vitrees.html

See you later.

Hello Coati84,

Good, good documentation on the openings !!!
But question: are the front walls well insulated.
If not it is the first thing to do, in order to properly integrate the double glazing.

Hello

The walls are not insulated on the ground floor. On the other hand, I will make a thermal correction by pouring cork granules on the 1st floor between the breeze blocks and the flat brick.
Finally, I will put in place a strong insulation of the roof with cellulose wadding blown into the crawlers and an external insulation of the entire north facade [RdC + 1st floor].

All in all, I thought carefully with my architect for 7 months and applied for the building permit last week.

With a limited budget, I try to implement pragmatic solutions and insist on the insulation, the change of windows and a more contemporary aspect of my house.

What do you think of the good methods to use, particularly concerning windows?

Thank you in advance.

Your choices regarding windows are interesting for Pertuis.

I would only put two caveats:
- for the choice of double glazing without a low emissivity layer in the South. If you have a small thermal correction for the night (insulating shutter, curtains or other ...) I think it is interesting to switch to VIR low emissivity for the southern doors.
- for the choice of aluminum, I am not sure that it is the best, wood or wood / aluminum is sometimes a little more expensive (not always), but often better for the insulation of the chassis. You can take a look at what is doing Bieber, even if it is far ...

Otherwise, for the removal, the carpenter will do it with more awareness, and if he is good, he will do more precise work than factory glazing (the sensitive point being in-situ measurements).

Finally, I think that we must ensure the isolation of the ground floor fairly quickly. Because if you only have concrete blocks today, you might as well say that the wall will lose more kWh / m² than the windows after renovation!

I imagine you are talking about complete removal and not machining of the frame.
in a heavy renovation, the reuse of the frame must be prohibited.

A good window is not everything, you also need a good pose.
Airtightness must be ensured.
The window must be exposed to the outside or provide for a return of insulation.

A long discussion on choosing the "best" glazing.

http://forums.futura-sciences.com/habitat-bioclimatique-isolation-chauffage/42784-vitrage-choisir.html

minguinhirigue wrote:I would only put two caveats:
- for the choice of double glazing without a low emissivity layer in the South. If you have a small thermal correction for the night (insulating shutter, curtains or other ...) I think it is interesting to switch to VIR low emissivity for the southern doors.
- for the choice of aluminum, I am not sure that it is the best, wood or wood / aluminum is sometimes a little more expensive (not always), but often better for the insulation of the chassis. You can take a look at what is doing Bieber, even if it is far ...

Agree with minguinhirigue, take a low emissivity glazing in the south, you can find some with very good solar factors but it's true you have to look a little and especially know how to impose it on the manufacturer of windows. With specialists like Bieber or Internorm, it is entirely possible.
In fact these windows are protected from the summer sun?

For the same aluminum and even in thermal break (RPT), I know someone who has had a veranda in aluminum with RPT (large manufacturer), exposed to the north but still; today he regrets because there is still condensation on the interior aluminum uprights. So condensation + DV not very efficient = gla gla!

Hello,

I see the thermal engineer that I appointed for the design phase on Thursday and will tell you if my "standard double-glazing" option for the south orientation is validated.

To answer minguinhirigue, I confirm that you have thick shutters and curtains on all my windows which currently have single glazing. I am very careful, especially now, to close the shutters and draw the curtains from 17:00 p.m. - 17:30 p.m. in order to limit losses.

Regarding the choice of glazing in my project, I am redeploying the reasoning that I put online on the forum Futura sciences:

My calculations as a first approximation for a month of December are as follows:
- source http://pagesperso-orange.fr/herve.silve/bilan_th.htm
- solar irradiation value in 84 [zone H2] on a vertical plane: 24 x 58.9 W / m² = 1.4 kWh / m²
- average temperature in December: 5.5 ° C
- average duration of sunshine fixed at approximately 7 hours in December
- standard double glazing 4/16/4:
solar gain - loss = 1 x 400 x 0.76 hours - 7 x (2.8 - 19.5) x 5.5 hours = 24 - 7 = 448 kWh / m²
- double glazing 4/16/4 with low emissivity face
solar gain - loss = 1 x 400 x 0.64 hours - 7 x (1.4 - 19.5) x 5.5 hours = 24 - 6 = 272 kWh / m²

This calculation must be redone for the other 5 months of heating, but it is always the standard double glazing which is the most appropriate for the "south" orientation because of a greater solar contribution. An approximate calculation for the 6 months of heating (mid-October to mid-April) gives an annual advantage of 8 kWh / m² for standard double glazing, ie in my case an annual advantage of 80 kWh.

Do you agree with me ?

The annual financial advantage in terms of gas consumption is very low - around € 4 - with this standard double glazing. This little calculation shows me a priori the fact that investing in a 4/16/4 double glazing with a low emissivity face - more expensive by about 10% than a standard double glazing - is not profitable for a "southern orientation. "in a town in the south-east of France. Finally, a last more psychological point: I like the heat of the sun in my living room bathed in sunlight in winter and I would not want to lose it by putting too insulating glazing on the "south" side.

I also specify that I have a correct inertia because the 'north' wall of my living room facing full 'south' is a cross wall made up of 15 cm thick concrete blocks and that my slab [compression slab on concrete floor joists and slabs] separating the ground floor and the 1st floor will have a total thickness of 23 cm.

The choice of aluminum was made for a more contemporary aspect of my house with the installation of an insulation of the north wall with wooden cladding: the combination of wood and aluminum is rather aesthetic. Finally, the absence of maintenance played a role in this choice.

I will ensure the insulation of the 3 east, west and south facades of my ground floor in a second step ... finance obliges!

Thank you minguinhirigue for your future contributions. It is true that I am thinking of having the removal done by the carpenter-installer and having my windows made in the manufacturing workshop of my future carpenter / installer. It sounds very good in terms of responsibility. Does it cost more than having the mason remove it?

See you later.

https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... FC9v3I.jpg

Thanks bham.

Just a question.

I made a research of double glazing which could correspond to my need of free solar contributions on the orientaions "south" of my house. I found the following product:
CLIMAPLUS N from SAINT GOBAIN GLASS
- FE - argon gas - Ug = 1.4 W / m².K - Uw <1.8 W / m².K - Fs = 0.64
- exterior glass: PLANITHERM
- inner glass: PLANITHERM PLUS N with FE layer on side 3.

Do you know FE double glazing with a better solar factor? Is there a manufacturer that markets this type of DV FE with correct prices? As a reminder, the solar factor of a standard double glazing is normally 0.76.

See you later.

For me, the glazings which are used to make passive solar, must be without emissivity layer.
We often have the argument that the sun is lower in winter than summer, the angle of incidence in winter is small, so the IR pass but not in summer when the sun is higher. Because that's just by looking vertically, the sun is not full South all day, the horizontal angle of incidence also varies.
This is also why a rapid static calculation cannot give the solution, the amount of IR reflected varying during the day (depending on the position of the Sun)

In any case, put the layer of low emissivity on the side of which you want to block the radiation. That's clear
If we want to protect ourselves from the Sun we put the layer, as far outside as possible, ie on the inside of the outside glass.
Conversely, to avoid radiant "leaks" from the heating, it is necessary to put the layer on the internal face of the interior glass.
Knowing that you can also protect yourself from the Sun with a cap. (which must be the case for a well-designed house).