Battery replacement Segway (electric unicycle) :-)

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titiyador
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Battery replacement Segway (electric unicycle) :-)




by titiyador » 22/10/15, 19:42

Hello,

I bought a Segway (it's an electric unicycle) directly in China and I would like to change the battery for a more powerful one. I called a shop and the seller put me in doubt. He told me not to be too stalled, but that the battery change was not only a history of voltage and amperage, it was also necessary to pay attention to other parameters (without knowing which ones) not to grill the motherboard, for charging the battery or something like that.

I really want to change the battery because the one I have (60V 4.4Ah) holds only 4 5 km max (on flat, I weigh only 74 kg), but it should hold at least 20 km.

Can a connoisseur in this area help me?

Thank you very much!

Ps: I hope to have posted in the right section.
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Gaston
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by Gaston » 23/10/15, 09:40

Hello,

I guess it's a lithium battery.
In this case, it is important to know the battery technology used (Li-ion, LiPo, LiFePo, ...) because the charging and discharging strategies are not identical and using a different technology could lead to a very fast wear of the battery (or even its combustion).

Moreover, in the specific case of a Segway, I do not know if the mass and the volume of the batteries are not an important characteristic for the equilibrium of the machine?

For more specific advice, I recommend you forum electric vehicles.fr where specialists of this kind of replacement / modification intervene.
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by elephant » 23/10/15, 09:40

There is indeed a risk to recharge, the charger part may not be made for a higher capacity which generally, at the beginning of charging requires a larger current.

The Chinese having taken the habit of dimensioning the components "a little tight"

In addition, it can be seen in the batteries of portable tools, telephones, etc., there is often a "3rd terminal" which is used for the charger to test the state of charge and there we are in unknown territory.
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by titiyador » 23/10/15, 10:28

Hello, thank you Gaston and Elephant for your answers.
I took a picture of the battery I currently have (and not the one I bought normally, I'm negotiating with the seller but that's another story).

Image

In fact I do not speak Chinese ... The brand seems to be MSX, it is marked LT (I imagine for Lithium), 60V and 4.4AH. Other information may be important for the price of the battery etc but I can not translate even with google.

The thing also is that the charger I received with the wheel was not already working at the reception. I got closer to a shop in Paris that provided me with a loader with similar characteristics but not identical (the loader received with the wheel: 67.2V 1.5A, the loader bought on Paris: 67.2V 1.75A, max 2.5A). but who can do it the least?

I can not quite understand, apart from a question of voltage and composition of batteries which would be annoying, because the amperage defines the power of the battery (multiplied by the voltage). To divide the amperage by half should mean halving the distance traveled, right? the engine does not take what it needs in the battery?

Thank you for the link of the other forum I'll go take a look!
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by Macro » 23/10/15, 11:29

You risk having inconsistencies with your load indicator. The motherboard must count the loaded and unloaded Ah, the impute or the count of the gauge, your energy meter will be false it is almost on, which risks to be more embarrassing it is if it uses this meter to manage the end of charge..In fact your new battery will never be completely charged (that said for lithium it is not very serious)
More serious thing your motor controller may not have protection against overcurrent in operation the capacity of the original battery may not reach the maximum current admissible by the controller (to a few Amps) by doubling the capacity your maximum current debited by your battery will probably be double and if no protection it will run fast but ... Not long ... I was had by putting a "pro" battery on a bosch "standard" screwdriver engine had a sunny lunch ...

For the weight of the pile that generated the stability of the stuff I do not worry too much it is expected for people with different faces and varied.
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by Gaston » 23/10/15, 12:11

titiyador wrote:I can not quite understand, apart from a question of voltage and composition of batteries which would be annoying, because the amperage defines the power of the battery (multiplied by the voltage).
What you call amperage is actually a capacity (in Ampere-hour) and it does not define a power but a quantity of energy stored.

The power, or rather the maximum power, is determined by the maximum current that can supply the battery that is related to the capacity and technology of the battery.
We speak of battery that can provide 2C, 3C, 10C.
For a battery of 4,4Ah like yours, 2C corresponds to a current of 8,8A which is a power of 8,8 * 60 = 528W, 10C corresponds to 44A or 2640W.


titiyador wrote:To divide the amperage by half should mean halving the distance traveled, right? the engine does not take what it needs in the battery?
Some (low cost) manufacturing ignores the protection of the motor and control electronics assuming that the battery will never supply enough current to damage the components ...
If we put a more powerful battery : Twisted:

Macro is also right on the measurement issues, although I'm not sure there is an Ah meter on this kind of gear ...
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by titiyador » 23/10/15, 17:28

Thank you Gaston for your clarification. It is better that I forget the internal location of the battery so ... What makes me remember that a few days ago, I fell (without hurting me : Lol: ) on a video where the guy explained that he was using an external battery that he connected directly to the charging socket of the wheel, while driving. This gave him a much greater autonomy.

I can not find the video but I found a link that sells but unfortunately too expensive (more expensive than the wheel!). I wanted to ask you what you thought about it: http://fr.cart100.com/Product/42887368063/

Is this a good alternative to replacing the internal battery? If so, I will push further my research to find one that gets along better with my portfolio :-)
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by Gaston » 23/10/15, 17:55

titiyador wrote:Thank you Gaston for your clarification. It is better that I forget the internal location of the battery then ...
Not necessarily, but it must be done with care, not just by finding a battery of the same voltage and that looks.
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by titiyador » 23/10/15, 17:58

Well yes, but I'm not too stalled in the field so ... the solution of an external battery that would connect to the load sheet of the wheel does it seem to you to be a good idea or not?
Thank you ;-)
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by Gaston » 23/10/15, 18:05

titiyador wrote:Well yes, but I'm not too stalled in the field so ... the solution of an external battery that would connect to the load sheet of the wheel does it seem to you to be a good idea or not?
I do not know enough the model to answer ...

Can the wheel spin when the plug is plugged :?:
What are the connections that go through this socket (only the + and the - or other information :?:
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